which 700r4?

[VileZambonie]

I gotcha! So you never ended up using the one you got?

[Grim 82]

That must be what they were referring to. I'm setting mine up with all the original design from the donor truck. The donor suburban has already paid for itself. When I was pulling the trans out of it I looked in the back seat for a block of wood or something to use as to not dent the pan with the jack. I almost couldn't believe what was back there; an old school nintendo with the hookups, 4 games, and 2 controllers. I took it apart last night, cleaned it up and pre-stressed the contactors, and then played Mario 3 in the garage.

[VileZambonie]

I downloaded all the old mario games for Wii and it's awesome! lol

[HAULIN IT]

I gotcha! So you never ended up using the one you got?

No I didn't...got into messing with the electronic one instead. Lorne

[Grim 82]

Still waiting patiently for the transmission. For the weekend I plan to clean up some other parts and apply some por15. My question is about the crossmember. The one I have in there now is flat across the bottom and uses a taller trans adapter with 2 seperate mounts. It seems to be identical to the one from the 84 pickup. The one from the 88 sub winds up and down and looks to be contoured to allow for the front drive shaft. That adapter is shorter and uses a single mount in the center. Does it matter which one of these I use? They look like they will hold the t-case at the same elevation as long as I use the corresponding adapter. The 88 is in good shape, but either of the other two would need new mounts. Sorry for no pics.

[VileZambonie]

The flat ones are prone to cracking. I had mine crack in half my 84 K5 while I was cranking down the highway and it wasn't pretty. Use the curved one as I've never seen one of them ever fail.

[Grim 82]

That's exactly what I wanted to hear, since then I won't have to buy new mounts. Thanks.

[Grim 82]

I should be getting the 700 this week. I went over there and it was all together except for the filter and the pan. I asked where the wires were that I need to hook up, and he says that he contacted TransGo about this new hydraulic only lockup kit that they sell, and that's what he put in there.   transgo p/n 700-LU
I already have the pickup set up with the switches to make it like stock. I told him I would try it out for a bit and if I don't like it he's going to do it over with the electric setup.
Anybody out there using a 700r4 with a 600 Holley model 80457S? I am curious what you used for brackets to connect the TV cable.

[eventhorizon66]

Let us know how that transgo hydraulic lockup works out for you.  Quick disengagement of the TCC?  No shuttling?

[Grim 82]

I'll keep you posted, and I'll probably have questions about its behavior. I'll get it this week but I won't be able to start the swap until after next week. In the meantime I want to make sure I have the correct brackets for the TV cable. I was having carb troubles and tried to run the q-jet again but that didn't work out so I am running the Holley for now.

[eventhorizon66]

Here is the genuine Sonnax TV geometry corrector:

http://www.oregonperformancetransmission.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=OPTI&Product_Code=SNX-AS2-02K&Category_Code=700R4HP

Here is Summit's knock off version: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-700202/

And here is a good resource for verifying proper TV setup: http://www.cpttransmission.com/tech_tvcable.htm

[Grim 82]

Thanks for the links. Is there any difference between them, or the Holley part for that matter?
http://www.holley.com/20-121.asp
Also I am using a cheapo Mr. Gasket chrome throttle bracket similar to this:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MRG-6039/
It seems like a pretty weak setup.

[eventhorizon66]

I don't think there is any difference in any of those geometry corrector brackets.  I just think Sonnax was the first to address the issue and then the other copycats followed suite.  I'd get the cheapest one and then verify proper geometry using the following diagram.

http://www.cpttransmission.com/Files/tec2.jpg

As far as the cable bracket goes, any visible flex as you open the throttle is unacceptable.  If it turns out to be nice and stiff, check the necessary geometry as shown above and discussed on the second half the of the page I linked to in my last post.

This looks like a good alternative if you don't have access to a factory bracket: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EDL-8031/

[Grim 82]

This should be arriving this week:
http://www.bowtieoverdrives.com/catalog/catalog_inc/viewitem.php?ITEMID=217

[eventhorizon66]

That was the first solution I tried when I swapped my 305 w/Q-jet for a 350 w/Edelbrock carb.  I didn't like it at all.  I adjusted it by the book and played with the complete range of adjustment.  I switched to the Sonnax bracket and a Sonnax TV valve spring and have been much happier.  (Although 1-2 is still too harsh)  Also make sure you can get WOT with that bracket, I couldn't and had to fab a small spacer to move the throttle cable mounting point farther away from the carb.

But you may have better luck, since I am using a factory '85 700 that has only been rebuilt, not updated (Transgo Reprogramming kit or the like).

Please report back with your findings.