which 700r4?

[Grim 82]

As far as credentials I don't really know, except that he's ASE Master and has all kinds of transmission association type certificates framed up in his shop. I've gotten to be buds with the guy and he has hooked me up with good deals on parts, tires, etc. I know that pretty much every shop in the area sources out their work to him, so his technicians do all the other types of work and all he does is rebuild transmissions for the most part. Other than that, I can't say for sure.

So would you suggest making a spacer to take slack out of the cable so that the valve seats fully? I just put the pan back on and filled it back up, but I can still make that adjustment. If it's an internal leak, what does that entail? The trans is under warranty but I did the R&R on it, so if it needs to be pulled to fix, I would have to pull it again. If it's something in the valve body I could just bring it in and have him put it on the hoist. Is there a way to diagnose this? I don't want to call him and say "Hey my buddy on the internet says this so rip it apart and fix it", if you know what I mean. I really appreciate your help Vile, it's getting too cold out to be messing with all this, and I've spent enough money that I am growing weary of all this trouble.

[VileZambonie]

OK so he should know what he is doing then. If you check the fluid at operating temp do you see bubbles on the dipstick?

Your TV adjsutment seems right. He built it, you installed it however he should be able to verify your work and diagnose it.

From what you descirbed it sounds to me like it was in lock up in 4th and wouldn't unlock the converter and come out of 4th gear. Not being the builder I'm not sure what was actually done but it could be something as simple as the governor valve sticking.

[Grim 82]

Well I put a few miles on it today. Checking the fluid at operating temp there is no bubbles on the dipstick, and it's not foamy looking at all. It seems to drive better than it did before, but it seems to want to upshift really early (about 1100 rpm) and not hold rpm too long without shifting up, even when you really stomp on it. It doesn't really want to downshift when you get after it either. I'm not really sure though what to expect from it. I haven't made any other adjustments on the cable.

What would have caused the overflow of fluid that I had just the one time?
Should I shorten that cable so the valve is fully pushed in at WOT or leave it as is?
Vile, when you build a 700 with a Holley carb what brackets and spring do you use?
What is the truth about what BTO calls 'SSS' short spring syndrome, and is their longer throttle valve spring really required?
Should I just put a q-jet and stock bracket back on it?
Thanks for the help. I'm about fit to be tied with this, but I hope that all this can help somebody else in the future...

[Grim 82]

New symptoms driving it this morning:
It still shifts way too early. I kept it in D, disabling 4th gear. It would shift by 900 to 1100 rpm 1-2-3 and fall completely on its face in third gear doing 15 mph and lugging the motor because of the high gear, and wouldn't downshift. Then, every light or stop sign that I pulled up to, as I would be braking up to a stop, when my forward motion was nearly stopped, the truck would jerk. It felt very similar to engine braking, like if you were coasting to a stop with a manual trans, put it in granny low and dumped the clutch. It never did this before.

[VileZambonie]

Something was done wrong on the overhaul. Take it back to him and let him fix it this time.

[Grim 82]

I did like you said and tightened up the adjustment as much as I could. I didn't make a spacer for the cable, I just pushed the adjuster all the way towards the firewall and then instead of turning the linkage to set the cable I just got in and drove. It performed really well, but after stomping it the self adjuster moved and it started to not act as well. I reset it towards the firewall, and went through the same motions. I called the builder and told him what I had done and what it's doing, and he suspects that there could be a crack in the valve body or an internal leak. I'm bringing it in.
Thanks

[Grim 82]

Something was causing it to lock up in 2nd, and wouldn't allow it to downshift. Now it has a new valve body and it works alot better than it did before.
For the record, right now I'm using the stock TV spring, stock cable, and Holley part numbers 20-95 & 20-121. The Holley parts are strong, easier to install, and about 1/3 of the price of the Bowtie Overdrives kit. If anyone is looking for the kit though, it's for sale