Tie Rod End 87 4wd

[mpeche923]

I have to replace the tie-rod end on the passenger side of my 87 4WD.  I have a pickel fork to separate the end from the spindle....  I figured i would break the nut loose first before anything else. I tried to attempt this today but I could not break the nut loose    I did not want to resort to putting a piece of pipe onto the end of the wrench....  besides using some WD-40 or some type of penetrating lubricant..... what else can i use to break it loose.  Will heating it up with a MAPP Gas torch help?? 

In addition I am going to be putting in a 4" lift kit but I wanted to make sure all my steering components were good and once I replace this joint I am all set...   So please any help is more then appreciated.

I assume making sure the steering is good before a lift is important..... 

Thanks
Mike

[dirtmod0]

heating up the nut will help-I have used the mini torch at work and had luck with using it.  I am sure you have the cotter pin removed also..

[GP3624]

There should be a cotter pin in place that should be removed first. Secondly, remember, lefty loosie, righty tighty.  :)If all else fails, use cheeter bar...

[mpeche923]

OOPS   I don't think I was clear enough.....  The nut with the cotter pin lossens up fine    It's the nut....i guess they call it the adjuster nut that goes into the long rod acroos the front axle that i cannot get loose.   It's like 1 5/16 or something like that  I have a wrnch on it but it just won't break free...

Hope that clears it up.... sorry for the confusion 

Thanks
Mike

[VileZambonie]

Yes use heat on the jam nut.

[mpeche923]

Thanks Vile......  Hey I noticed you live in CT....  North Jersey here........   I always count on you for great advice.   

Is that MAPP Gas torch hot enough to do the job....  Sorry for the dumb questions...  but I count on you for great tips. 

any other advice or something to make my life easier changing this tie rod.   

[VileZambonie]

Thanks! I always try! My father lives in Jersey.

Soak it good with penetrating oil. The Mapp torch will take longer to heat it up but it will do the trick. A pipe wrench might come in handy too. Don't forget to have an extinguisher close by and your safety glasses. Hot rusty metal in the eye sucks.

[mpeche923]

OK an update:

I have a friend who owns a fabrication plant (manufacturing)  so I went down on Saturday to borrow his acetylene torches to heat up the tie rod end. I got the jam nut loose but of course I could not get it out of the spindle because we did not have a pickle fork... left it at home...  Well we made one. before we knew it everything was out...   Now here the interesting part.

I was watching TRUCK U on speed and they were working on a jeep front end with a lift.  and they were measuring the back and front of the front tires to get CLOSE to having the alignment correct.  Well I did the same thing before I started....  I had 71 1/4 on the backside and 70 3/4 on the front.  and to my luck you could see the passenger side had to come in.....  well when i put the new tie rod in and got everything set I was able to get the front end to exactly 71" front and back....

I can feel that the response it better and now the alignment is good also......    Well thanks for the help guys....  Now onto my next project.... the 4" lift       

Thanks Again
Mike

 

[VileZambonie]

glad you got it but I would still have an alignment done. Incorrect toe in will chew your tires up the quickest.

[rockable]

For future reference, here's a good tip that I learned from the BellTech kits. 

If you are trying to remove tie rods, ball joints, other tapered joints, pound on the side of the member that has the female taper with a sizeable hammer.  I'd never tried it before but it works.  If you smack it, it apparently deforms the taper just enought to get the stuck joint to pop loose.  You should apply a little pressure while doing this.  It works a lot better than smacking the top of the tie rod and screwing it up.  It works great with ball joints since the spring is applying the pressure.

Of course, a puller works best.

[mpeche923]

Thanks for all the tips I will remember that for next time.

Vile,

your right about the alignment...BUT I still need to put in the 4" kit first...  i don't even want to show you what my current spring bushings look like.....  I am sure once i get the new springs/steering arm etc all in.. the truck will feel even tighter.. and then I will take it for an alignment 

Thanks
Mike