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Today at 07:27:26 AM by Dom_HeavyHalf | Views: 34 | Comments: 3

Hi Folks!

My name is Dominik, I'm nearly 30 years old and I'm a Chevy Guy since several years.
We have only a few trucks here in Austria, as they were never sold here. So all imported, also mine.

I had a K5 blazer before and some other trucks(97' S10, 01' S10, 05' Silverado) - my recent project is an 79' GMC Heavy Half with 454 and TH350.
I'm currently preparing it for a paintjob as the paint was not in a good condition and it had some minor rust issues.

Hope to be on the road with it by summer next year.

I'm glad to be here in the forum, best wishes from Austria(Where Arnold Schwarzenegger come from)!

December 09, 2018, 11:27:40 AM by Ronno6 | Views: 30 | Comments: 0

I have my 350 block mounted to the engine stand with the lower arms parallel to the ground.
I don't know if I can drop it farther.
The bare block itself is top heavy...a bear to roll over right side up.
Though the crank c/l is below the c/l of the stand's head mount,
I doubt that it will offset the weight of the heads and pistons,etc.

How balanced can I expect to get it, and should I be doing something different?
December 08, 2018, 05:08:15 PM by c10rider | Views: 90 | Comments: 5

Hello fellas , everytime I go to the gas station and try to put gas in my 74c10 stepside I make a mess , I canít get the dispenser in far enough without it spilling back out , sorry for the dumb question

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
December 08, 2018, 10:40:08 AM by 88rxna | Views: 98 | Comments: 6

hello, i am making the choice of changing out the rad support and changing over to the 1990 blazer/burb quad style headlight grill package (fromt the single headlight setup). i have sourced all the parts but the electrical side of this project.
I would like to update the wiring to feed power directly from the battery similar to the relay upgrade. question is, what is the most practical way of doing this without spending a fortune?
is it easiest to source the harness from the burb/blazer and just get the relay package from ? when i found the grill, i took it from a 92-95 van and took its wire harness thinking it would work but i found out it will not (due to the bulk head being different). If it would be easiest top splice into that i can. would i just find a new bulk head for the firewall connection then? or maybe de-pin the existing one?

** I do have the correct bezels, center grill section and rad support for the C10. im just not sure about the wiring yet.
December 07, 2018, 11:27:55 PM by septantrionalis
Views: 98 | Comments: 4

I just got my engine installed in my truck.  Its a 383 Stroker Engine from West Coast Engines.  Its running great with one exception -- hesitation.  Its hard to explain, but the hesitation doesn't occur when I slightly press the gas pedal.  In fact, it runs great when the gas pedal is slightly pressed.  Once I give it some more gas, the truck starts to stutter and spur but then recovers after a few seconds.  The warmer the engine gets, the less hesitation there is.

Here's some videos I took of me giving the truck some gas.  I'm barely giving the truck gas as the while truck going the opposite direction passes me.  At 4 seconds, I try and gun it and it sputters.  I continue gunning it and the engine recovers at around 6 seconds:

Another video.  This one, I am giving the truck light gas and its running fine.  At around 2 seconds, I try to give it more gas and it sputters.  You can hear it at around 3 seconds.  I continue to have the gas pedal pressed and it recovers at around the 4 second mark:

West Coast Engines had the engine dyno'd and tuned in Washington State. The carburetor is a Holley 670CFM Street Avenger.

I've taken it to two shops and they both messed with the carb.  All the did was adjust the primary jets up/down and replace the power valve.  It still sputtered.  All the shops did was complain that the Holley is a hard carburetor to tune -- that I should go with Edelbrock.  This seems like a cop out.

I called West Coast Engines and they told me to check the timing.  It should be "32 degrees at 2500 RPM for total advanced".  I had a shop check that and its spot on.  Do I need to adjust the timing from those numbers when living in a higher altitude city?

Any other ideas as to why I am getting that initial hesitation?

Just for fun, here's a walk around of my truck:
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