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June 20, 2018, 09:18:18 PM by Spool
Views: 10 | Comments: 0

Hey all.
73' C20 here.

Been a bit crazy this spring with work and school, yet it's finally time to repair my coolant system.

I have:
-a leak near the thermostat.
-a leak from what I'd imagine to be my heater-core; you can see it's wet sometimes if you pull the rug up.
-swollen hoses through-out that are in-need of replacement with some fresh good looking ones.
(It would also be wise to finally purchase a coolant reservoir as well.)

With all of this, I began researching online as to the parts and process as to not just start this thread cold before asking for help.
But I would like to ask what everybody thinks about flushing the system before taking on this job?

This video about flushing your coolant system seems to be straight-forward and informative:
It's a 20 minute video, so here is list of the steps:

0. He pours a Coolant Flush and Cleaner into his system 100miles before he's ready to begin flushing.
1. Releases radiator petcock to drain existing coolant.
2. Removes the thermostat temporarily and reattaches upper radiator hose and petcock.
3. Fills system with distilled water and an additional Coolant Flush and Cleaner.
4. Runs the truck for 10 minutes with the heat on.
5. Allows it to cool and then drains the system again.
(Repeat to clean: observing the color of the water when you pull the petcock.)

My idea is I can do steps 1 thru 5 to clean the system before replacing my thermostat/gasket, hoses and heatercore.

Any pros or cons to this method?
Thanks guys!

(Attached are some pictures of the current condition.)
June 20, 2018, 01:00:52 PM by devildogmech | Views: 29 | Comments: 2


79' C-10. 350/350 combo. The motor was burning oil and the valve seals were non-existent. I used the rope trick and the lever tool, and put new umbrella seals on the valves. Put it all back together and it's running real rough. Idles very poorly and wants to die when given any throttle at all.

So, It ran well (except for fouling plugs) before the seals were put in... I'm thinking I might have tightened the rocker arms too much? Maybe they aren't allowing the valves to close all the way?

I used the EOIC method to adjust the valves.
-I started on cylinder #1. I rotated the engine by hand till the #1 exhaust valve started to open.
-I then tightened the Intake valve till the rocker arm stopped having any play in it. I then went 1/4 turn more.
-I rotated the engine until the Intake Valve Opened and just began to close.
- I then tightened the exhaust valve till the rocker arm stopped having any play and then again 1/4 turn more.
- Then moved to Cylinder #3 and just worked my way down the motor.

Did I F' this up?

FYI, I did double check the timing, New plugs, new wires......
June 20, 2018, 11:32:20 AM by Cheyenne1010 | Views: 35 | Comments: 3

What's up guys,I got 1973 chevy C10 long bed.When I'm driving straight the brake pedal is firm and brakes response is quick.when I make a left or right turn and press the brake pedal it'll go to the floor,then I'll pump the brake pedal once and it'll be firm again.a friend told me to get the pedal firm and remove brake master cylinder cover and turn the steering wheel left or right,I turned right and I seen a little brake fluid stream shoot up from reservoir then I pressed on the brake pedal and it went to the floor,samething happend when I turned left.everything that has to do with the brakes have been replaced with new parts and new front brake rotors with new inner and outer if I do the samething with the truck Jack up it doesn't do it,I turn left and right then press the brake pedal and it's firm,I put the truck back down,turn the steering wheel pedal goes to the floor.i know there's something pushing the caliper piston back into the caliper but I just don't know what it is.any help is welcomed.have a nice day guys.
Stewart G Griffin
June 20, 2018, 02:33:09 AM by Stewart G Griffin
Views: 43 | Comments: 1

Has anyone privately sold a newer, more expensive (let's say $5000 and above) car?

Not necessarily talking about trade-in, although if you did that please discuss as well.

1) Were you actually able to sell it?

2) How did it go?
June 19, 2018, 02:31:04 PM by devildogmech | Views: 81 | Comments: 3

I woudn't have any at all. 

So I've been trying to get my 350/350 in my 79' C-10 running well, so I can do stuff before I do my 5.3 swap.

The motor was burning oil, and the seller said the valve seals were bad..... Well, he wasn't exactly wrong. There were no umbrella seals. So I used the rope trick method and the lever tool to put new seals in....

All done, adjusted the valves and it wouldn't start. It would crank, would Catch but wouldn't actually run.

Take the valve covers back off, double check the timing and re-adjust the valves to make sure they weren't too tight and not actually closing. IOEC method.... Done.

Put the spark plugs back in and #1 is being a $#@%.... again. I've chased the threads a couple of times (plenty of grease in the flutes of the chase to catch any shavings).... So I run it in and am listening to music, not really paying attention.... I ran it ALL THE WAY IN....  :o

Now the chase tap is stuck in the cylinder and I can't get it back out!!! FML.....

I'm done for the day. I'll dick with it tomorrow.
Pages: [1]

* Recent Posts

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[June 20, 2018, 10:44:39 PM]

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Replacing my Coolant Hoses, Thermostat, and Heater Core. by Spool
[June 20, 2018, 09:18:18 PM]

Re: Seatbelts - Any tips or advice? by Spool
[June 20, 2018, 08:53:24 PM]

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