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73-87 Chevy _ GMC Trucks => Engine/Drivetrain => Topic started by: devildogmech on June 20, 2018, 01:00:52 PM
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Ok,
79' C-10. 350/350 combo. The motor was burning oil and the valve seals were non-existent. I used the rope trick and the lever tool, and put new umbrella seals on the valves. Put it all back together and it's running real rough. Idles very poorly and wants to die when given any throttle at all.
So, It ran well (except for fouling plugs) before the seals were put in... I'm thinking I might have tightened the rocker arms too much? Maybe they aren't allowing the valves to close all the way?
I used the EOIC method to adjust the valves.
-I started on cylinder #1. I rotated the engine by hand till the #1 exhaust valve started to open.
-I then tightened the Intake valve till the rocker arm stopped having any play in it. I then went 1/4 turn more.
-I rotated the engine until the Intake Valve Opened and just began to close.
- I then tightened the exhaust valve till the rocker arm stopped having any play and then again 1/4 turn more.
- Then moved to Cylinder #3 and just worked my way down the motor.
Did I F' this up?
FYI, I did double check the timing, New plugs, new wires......
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Sounds like you overtightened the valves. To attain zero valvetrain lash before preloading the lifter piston, back off the rocker until there is noticeable endplay in the valve pushrod (sufficient gap between the pushrod and the rocker that the pushrod will make a slight "clack" while moving end-to-end). Then, slowly tighten the rocker ball nut until the pushrod endplay just disappears. At that point, tighten the rocker ball nut 1/4 - 1 full turn. Make sure all of the lifters are preloaded the same amount.
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I see! Clear as mud! I was under the impression that I was trying to get the slop out of the rocker arm.... So it's the Vertical end-play of the Push Rod that I'm after..... That should be an easy fix.... Hopefully.
Knowing my luck, it will lead to something else....
Thanks!
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Well, Got a day off and tackled the problem.
ALL the valves were at least two full turns too tight. Backed em' off, re-adjusted based on pushrod end play and BAMO, she fired right up and idled like a dream.
Drove to Lowes to return some stuff and as she warmed up, she started dying when I came to a stop, and bogged like crazy when I tried to take off.... Once I get up to speed, she runs like a dream..... It's the getting going thats the problem now.
Going to test the fuel pump..... need an adapter for my gauge.... Don't think its a starvation problem. The fuel filter is FULL of fuel.
Need to look up how to test HEI coils....
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check for vacuum leaks also whats your timing set at?
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OK.... Double Checked the Timing. its 10' BTC. This SHOULD be a stock 350.... I honestly dont know, I just recently got the truck. But the only "go-fast" part is the edelbrock carb and its a 1406.
All the vacuum lines are connected
I sprayed all around the intake manifold and the base of the carb with ether, and the idle never changed. Don't think its a vacuum leak.
When it was cold, it ran fine. As it warms up, it gets progressively worse. Idles fine. Once underway, its fine. It the getting going from a stop that is the problem. Once the truck got nice and warm, it started almost dying when I came to a stop, and does die, when I try to pull away from a stop....
New Plugs
New Wires
Cap was inspected and looked good.
Going to look up how to test the coil... maybe its bad and is getting heat soaked?
Any ideas, let me hear em.
TIA
William
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FIXED IT!!!!
Took the coil out to look at it...
The power wire was frayed (no bueno) AND it was completely missing the secondary ground strap!
New cap, rotor and coil and she runs like a dream!
Drove all over town for about 30min and she never stumbled.
Awesome! (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180624/5cb779ad4c38e6eaeed0fa152e3c4c08.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180624/9a5c9477deff15c88dba2e5987a3cf48.jpg)
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