1987 V10 Engine Block Question

[bd]

The R43CTS spark plug runs slightly cooler than the R45T.  The "C" in the part number refers to a copper core, which conducts heat away from the electrodes more efficiently than a standard core plug effectively providing a broader working heat range.  The cooler plug in conjunction with the copper core reduces the propensity for engine ping.  The "S" refers to an extended tip, which projects the electrodes slightly further into the combustion chamber.  As long as there is sufficient clearance between the piston and the spark plug tip, which is the case with the vast majority of engine configurations barring those that use exotic aftermarket pop-up piston crowns, the extended tip unshrouds the electrodes for deeper penetration into the cylinder and improved exposure to the swirling air-fuel mixture.  The swirling air-fuel mixture tends to cool the unshrouded extended tip electrodes more effectively than standard tip electrodes, while deeper penetration into the cylinder places the electrodes in a better position to ignite the mixture for more complete combustion. 

The only observable physical differences between the R45T and R43CTS are the extended tip of the R43CTS and subtle differences in the masses and shapes of the center electrode ceramic insulators.

[whipper.snapper]

Thank you BD,
 
   I also have another question regarding fuel delivery,
My truck has what seems to be a fuel pump in the fuel tank cap (there is electrical connections on the cap) but it also has a mechanical fuel pump on the engine. My questions is why does it have both and which one do you guys recommend I stick with. The mechanical or electrical one? Or do I have to have both?

Thank you in Advance..


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[bd]

When you say the "cap" has electrical connections, are you referring to the round flat plate with hose nipples that attaches directly to the top of the fuel tank?  The original engine used Throttle Body [Fuel] Injection (TBI).  TBI relies on an in-tank electric fuel pump that delivers 11-12 PSI regulated pressure.  The carbureted engine that resides in the vehicle now uses an engine-mounted mechanical fuel pump that delivers 5-9 PSI, depending on the model of the pump.  As long as there isn't a fuel delivery problem that is being masked by an electric pump, the engine only needs the mechanical engine-mounted pump.  When the original TBI engine was swapped with a carbureted engine, are you sure that the electric fuel pump wasn't defeated and removed from the tank at the same time?

[whipper.snapper]

Well I cant tell you if the electric pump was operational, but it was definitely hooked up electrically.

Maybe they left the electric pump in there and just hooked up the fuel lines to it because it was easier than finding a new way to hook up the lines to the tank?


 


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[bd]

If the in-tank pump works, you will be able to hear it run for at least a second by standing next to the tank when an assistant cycles the ignition key ON.

[whipper.snapper]

So if the electric pump does work would you suggest I use that? Or go with the mechanical?


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[bd]

The TBI fuel pump produces way too much pressure for a carburetor.  Although you could regulate the pressure down to 7 PSI, doing so would heat the fuel unnecessarily and possibly damage the pump, depending on how you go about it.  Use the mechanical engine-mounted pump to feed a carburetor.

[whipper.snapper]

Okay will do.

    Will it be necessary for me to change out the fuel pickups? Or just hook into the existing nipples on the cap of the tank?


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[bd]

If I were performing the job, I would use the correct fuel pickup unit for the application then reconfigure the hoses and wiring accordingly.

[whipper.snapper]

Thanks bd!!


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[whipper.snapper]

Hey do you guys have any suggestions of the best brand to buy a full set of fuel lines from?


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[Captkaos]

I get metal and braided lines from Inlinetube.com or classictube.com

[whipper.snapper]

Hey guys, question for y’all.

So we installed the engine on the frame today to give it a test run up.

The starter will just barely turn the engine over, I tried 2 different batteries and a jump pack hooked up to it. With the same results.

We removed the spark plugs and cranked it over to make sure there wasn’t anything interfering in the cylinder. After we took the plugs out, the motor turned over better but still was not fast by any means.

What is y’all’s opinion? Bad starter? Something inside the engine interfering?

Also, I switched out the main current carrying wire that was run to the starter with a good jumper cable and it didn’t help.


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[JohnnyPopper]

Starters get tired, slow, and funky.

I bought a new battery, thought it was bad because my starter acted the same, slow funky.

New starter, (along with new battery)  WOW!  Fast turn over and great performance!

[whipper.snapper]

Starters get tired, slow, and funky.

I bought a new battery, thought it was bad because my starter acted the same, slow funky.

New starter, (along with new battery)  WOW!  Fast turn over and great performance!

Well I hope that my starter is the problem..

My next step will be trying a new starter and maybe a new power wire that runs from the battery to the starter.

What gauge wire do you recommend for the starter?

Also, one of my friends (a fellow squarebody guy) recommended that I get the “mini high-torque” starter to replace the starter that I have now. What is y’all’s opinion on that? Worth it? If you have a brand that has treated you well, plz share that too.

The advice is MUCH appreciated.
Thank you


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