Author Topic: Exhaust Pipe Challenge -- Test Your Knowledge!  (Read 8179 times)

Offline philo_beddoe

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Exhaust Pipe Challenge -- Test Your Knowledge!
« Reply #15 on: December 23, 2016, 11:17:13 PM »
If it were a camaro or impala or a chevelle or road runner,  charger, goat, torino, mach 1, nova or a 442, i'd go open headers. I just dont see a truck as a "hot rod."

This is what i see as a truck:




This i dont get:



I love the factory look. Everyone knows that by now.
Behold, the day of the LORD cometh, and thy spoil shall be divided in the midst of thee.  Zechariah 14:1

Offline LTZ C20

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Re: Exhaust Pipe Challenge -- Test Your Knowledge!
« Reply #16 on: December 24, 2016, 01:04:48 AM »


I have a 5.7 350 w/ TBI (1987-1995). It was a crate engine purchased about 10 years ago (it lives inside a 1984 suburban k20 4x4).

9.25:1 Compression ratio



With these exhaust headers (Hedman 69090) --



Okay, the questions .....

1. How large (diameter) should my exhaust pipes be? (2.5", 3", etc.)

2. Should I use an "H" pipe to connect the two banks, or just have each side of the engine be completely independent?

3. Where is the best place for an oxygen sensor?

4. Would Flowmaster Super 10 Series Mufflers be a good idea? If not, what would be better?

5. Should I have 1-in-1-out or 1-in-2-out mufflers?

6. What's the best catalytic converter for this vehicle?

FAQs:
- I want a good sounding, loud exhaust -- not loud stupid, but loud deep
- I care more about sound than off-the-line acceleration
- I never tow anything, but often do freeway driving
- I do want to pass emissions (Arizona)

1. For your setup, 2.5 inch pipe will be plenty and adequate.

2. You don't have too, you can if you want. It does make servicing your transmission a tad more difficult. I opted to not use one and it never caused me any grief.

3. Driver side collector or just after the collector. Had no issues with mine being there, just found the best place for it with linkage and had no issues. If it's not a heated 02, I would recommend installing a heated O2, it helps with moisture, reading accurately and is better for engines with headers, especially full length like yours.

4. I used flow master super 44s, they were healthy sounding during normal driving, pretty much faded off at freeway speeds and were pretty quiet, sounded awesome when I goosed it. Only problem I ever had was idling for a while like when in a drive thru but I had mine dumped over the rear axle and pointed at the ground so going all the way will eliminate that issue. I've also heard MagnaFlow's and Borla's mufflers with nice sound. If I was gonna build another system, I would possibly look into one of those. Then again, Flowmaster is always a classic.

5. That's dependent on which setup you choose. If you do independent sides, then 2 mufflers, both 1-in-1-out. If you do a different setup then it depends on the arrangement. Mine was independent true duals, 1-in-1-out.

6. There are alot of cats out there that are efficient. I've heard good things about MagnaFlow's cat converters. Not sure what else is out there.

I had a TBI 350 that was bored, cammed, with aluminum heads, the whole engine was built top to bottom, my exhaust was simple, affective and clean. So your current setup and goals are similar to what I was using.
LTZ Cheyenne C20

Offline 75gmck25

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Re: Exhaust Pipe Challenge -- Test Your Knowledge!
« Reply #17 on: April 30, 2017, 07:29:08 AM »
From a performance standpoint, on a engine that is running up to about 350 HP there is no reason to use any larger than full duals and 2.5" pipes.  And the smaller pipes are easier to bend and route.

One combination that maintains performance flow, but still remains quiet is to use 2.50" DynoMax Super Turbo mufflers, full duals with H pipe, and run the pipes all the way to the back bumper.  This setup will flow well, but have a very low muscle car rumble tone.

Bruce