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I think you need to push the red buttonThen the black really fastI think your T-stat is sticking for some reason. Did it do that with the 190?
I've read elsewhere that installing the temp sender in the intake or water spout neck is the easy solution and forget about it and the head temp spot was just for an idiot light that came on at 260+ but I dunno.
What is the cold, static coolant level in the radiator after the engine has cycled through a couple of heating cycles? Is there any air under the cap? Is the water pump belt in good condition and suitably tensioned?Install a radiator pressure tester in place of the radiator cap on a totally cold engine before starting in the morning. Start the engine and monitor how much time elapses to build 20 PSI pressure at ~1,100 engine RPM.
Quote from: JohnnyPopper on September 27, 2021, 06:30:31 PMI think you need to push the red buttonLol the big red button is from the previous owner it goes to these obnoxious farm n fleet special led lights.
I think you need to push the red button
Quote from: Dave78 on September 27, 2021, 10:22:45 PMQuote from: JohnnyPopper on September 27, 2021, 06:30:31 PMI think you need to push the red buttonLol the big red button is from the previous owner it goes to these obnoxious farm n fleet special led lights.Dang! I was hoping for a warp-speed button...
You can run maybe 15-30 seconds before the coolant starts spilling out of the rad with the cap off. Might not even be that long.
Another oddity, turning the heater core fan on results in an immediate jump of 5 degrees hotter. I have no idea how running the heater makes the coolant run hotter. This happens even after the thermostat is fully open and has stabilized at 180.