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« Last post by Mike81K10 on May 11, 2024, 06:18:34 PM »
Thanks VZ! Having Aluminum heads and such is new to me and it makes me nervous with how much they cost.
I remember when I was about 19 Years old and was working on a Chevy Vega I had bought used. I stripped some bolts while tightening some parts on the engine. I actually had forgotten about that car. My third vehicle I had purchased. I was going to put a 350 engine in it, then decided to just sell it. Body on it was perfect! The engine smoked a little bit but ran.
I removed the exhaust system from my truck today and will begin searching for a stainless steel system to install. I would like to know if anyone knows of a trans cross member for dual exhaust for a 1981 K10 that would work, or if I should even bother with one.
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« Last post by Mike81K10 on May 11, 2024, 03:54:38 PM »
What is the opinion on the forum about lifting the engine with the cherry picker by the accessary bolt holes on the sides of the heads (aluminum heads)? Is it really safe or is there a better way of lifting the engine? I am used to cast iron heads and would not even second guess lifting them by the accessary bolt holes. However, aluminum is a different story. I have heard of people lifting with the carb plate on aluminum intakes and I think that is crazy. A straight lift on threads sounds worse that those on the side of the engine. I will soon install my new engine in my truck and am curious if I will be OK using the front and back of the aluminum heads.
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« Last post by Jimartina on May 10, 2024, 04:48:56 AM »
When the gauge wire is disconnected from the sender with the ignition switched ON, the fuel gauge needle should swing WELL PAST FULL TO THE 3:00 O'CLOCK POSITION. When you ground the sender wire the gauge should quickly drop to EMPTY.
Did you do this ^^^^^? This is a grassroots "test" that should tell you whether the fuel gauge is any good.
Yes, I forgot to mention that. Sent from my SM-S901U using Tapatalk
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« Last post by Mike81K10 on May 09, 2024, 06:30:15 PM »
Did not have much time to get a lot done today. However, I installed my intake and used Loctite 518 Anaerobic Gasket Maker 2096059 with the spray activator on the four corners were the gaskets meet. Usually use Permatex Silicone gasket maker and sealer on that. My valve cover gaskets is a little thick and will need to get some mounting hardware for them, cannot use the OEM I have.
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« Last post by bd on May 09, 2024, 05:58:54 PM »
When the gauge wire is disconnected from the sender with the ignition switched ON, the fuel gauge needle should swing WELL PAST FULL TO THE 3:00 O'CLOCK POSITION. When you ground the sender wire the gauge should quickly drop to EMPTY.
Did you do this ^^^^^? This is a grassroots "test" that should tell you whether the fuel gauge is any good.
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« Last post by Jimartina on May 09, 2024, 05:02:27 PM »
Might need to test it with sender out of the tank. Use some jumper wires between sender terminals and Truck harness and move sending unit arm up and down. Should tell you if it's dash gauge or not.
I took it out of the tank and hooked it back to the harness. No matter what position I put it in over 1/4 tank it still would only read 1/4. Thanks for the response. Sent from my SM-S901U using Tapatalk
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« Last post by Jimartina on May 09, 2024, 05:01:16 PM »
I tested it in the tank and out the tank. ... I know the gage will go to full because if the wires are disconnected it defaults to full. ...
When the gauge wire is disconnected from the sender with the ignition switched ON, the fuel gauge needle should swing well past FULL to the 3:00 o'clock position. When you ground the sender wire the gauge should quickly drop to EMPTY.
You can also perform a rudimentary check on the sending unit if you have a decent ohmmeter. With the sender float in its lowest position (EMPTY) an ohmmeter with its leads clipped to the sending unit frame and sender wire pin terminal should indicate ~0 Ohm. Moving the float to its highest position (FULL) the ohmmeter should indicate ~90 Ohms; midway (1/2 Tank) it should indicate ~45 Ohms.
If the sender float is closed cell nitrophyl foam, give it a firm squeeze between your finger and thumb nail. If the float oozes fuel when squeezed, the float is saturated and the sender should be replaced with another brand that uses better quality materials.
dang wish I had this ohm info before I re installed the tank. Lol. I will try that next time I take it out. The sending u it float is plastic. (Got it from NAPA) Seems to float fine. It just won't read over 1/4 tank. I did move the float to many positions with the truck on and it never would read over 1/4 but less than 1/4 works as it should. Sent from my SM-S901U using Tapatalk
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« Last post by Jeff86inMS on May 09, 2024, 11:14:43 AM »
I will look and let you know.
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