73-87chevytrucks.com
73-87 Chevy _ GMC Trucks => Members Rides => Topic started by: Skyshadow on June 28, 2012, 02:47:29 AM
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Title pretty much explains it, this will be a thread of a 5.3L LM7 drop in with a 4L60E trans. This is not a "what if" or a year long project( or so I thought! lol.) I have the already pulled together the funds and time for this project. I will be tracking total cost of build, difficulties and things learned so it may make the same mod easier for others. Also, I am not a car genius so I would love help from the forum when i get stuck.
So far I have purchased a 5.3L Vortec drop out with all the hardware (ECU, Wiring harness, etc) with 164K miles on it for $750. The shipping costs are still being hammered out, trying to locate a place to ship to near my house with a dock or forklift. If you have a dock or forklift, it makes the freight cost about $150 less. I have also purchased a 4L60E re builder trans with bell housing and torque converter for $24.99 locally so no shipping cost.
*update, Shipping for the motor from New Hampshire is $250 with insurance to a place with a forklift.
(http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa310/huffster_2007/scrnprint.jpg)
I live in California and the truck is located in Oklahoma, I will be flying out there to start the project on July 10th and working on it throughout the month. At that time I will also start adding pictures and such of the parts and truck.
If anyone has any good advice before i start, lay it on me.
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First off welcome to the site from Sac. Ca. Where in Ca. are you located ? Are you flying out to Oklahoma to work on the truck there or bring it back to Ca ?
As far as documenting the swap from start to finish, I think it is a great idea. The more detail the better, I am sure more people would like to do a swap like this but lack the expertise to take on this sort of project, with a detailed diagram they might just feel comfortable enough to do the swap.
I am sure as you start and run into problems that you will get more than enough help.
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I'll throw a welcome in, and ask, do you have the motor mount kit already? Other than that, I'll look forward to following the build. Driving it back to california would be a great shake down cruise.
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Nice to meet you guys, I live in LA but will be attending college in Rancho Cuchamonga. I will be as detailed and descriptive as possible with what it takes, cost and such and maybe when I'm done I can get a moderator to reorganize the thread to be more reader friendly. lol I do plan on flying out, building it and driving it back as a "test of fire" i guess. I do not have a motor mount kit yet, you have suggestions?
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You may want to read my R10 Project post. I am documenting everything from the time the 305/70R4 came out to the time the motor cranks. Of course I am doing this outside like a run of the mill swap would go and I only have the weekends to work on it... Man I need my garage back.
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Would definitely like to check that out, you have the thread URL? I suck at searches
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Try this:
http://forum.73-87chevytrucks.com/smforum/index.php/topic,12120.0.html (http://forum.73-87chevytrucks.com/smforum/index.php/topic,12120.0.html)
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^Thanks, I thought it was that one.. stumbled upon it earlier today.
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Nice, I got my 5.3 from "bowauto" as well, they're top notch. It's not a total drop in swap but it is worth it. Good luck!
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Have you been running the engine from them? How has it been doing if so? what would you suggest I replace before install? I have decided I'll swap belts, water pump, timing chain, and oil pan gasket.
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Have you been running the engine from them? How has it been doing if so? what would you suggest I replace before install? I have decided I'll swap belts, water pump, timing chain, and oil pan gasket.
It sounds like you've got your bases covered. If you have time I suggest painting your block, alternator housing, or whatever else just to make it look a little nicer. I was in a rush to do mine and didn't, and I kinda wish I had. Mine is an 03 and it had about 119k on it when I got it. I've put about 20,000 kms on it (approx. 12,000 miles) and haven't had any issues really.
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I did my harness the un-sexy way, and spliced into the stock harness (I needed the underhood fuseblock from a same year truck). You can buy an aftermarket harness that's cleaner and has just the stuff that you need, but I don't think it'll be worth it until mine is a show truck. This site has a ton of info, and I relied upon it heavily to get this project done. It's a little hard to navigate but if you comb through it you can find what you need. The guy also does computer tuning (which you WILL need, at the very least to take out the anti-theft).
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Still havent heard anything about what motor mounts I should use... anyone got any ideas? I found the LS universal ones but I'm not sure...
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If you have the patience and want to do the wiring yourself check here: http://lt1swap.com/ (http://lt1swap.com/) The LS Pinouts are listed.
Dirty Dingo, S&P, Holley, Transdapt all make mounts, some are just plates...
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^ Thanks about the mounts. went with the TransDP plates to move it forward and use the original style mounts.
I knew about that site but I will fix the wiring harness further down the road, I only have 12 days to make this project road worthy. :-\
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Here's a update so far...
Pulled the truck out of the field
(http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa310/huffster_2007/IMAG0323.jpg)
(http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa310/huffster_2007/IMAG0324.jpg)
(http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa310/huffster_2007/IMAG0327.jpg)
The tear down
(http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa310/huffster_2007/IMG_20120717_191432.jpg)
(http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa310/huffster_2007/IMG_20120722_202300.jpg)
(http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa310/huffster_2007/IMG_20120719_105540.jpg)
Here is my pile of stuff i pulled for scrap
(http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa310/huffster_2007/IMG_20120722_201900.jpg)
Junk buildup on the old motor and trans... was able to stick a screw driver in it and it stick
(http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa310/huffster_2007/IMG_20120725_170817.jpg)
A word of advice, pressure wash your motor if its a drop out before you break it down, There was fathoms of junk under the intake mani that almost got into my valleys. had to clean them out with a compact vacuum.
All that black stuff on the ground was on my motor under the mani..
(http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa310/huffster_2007/IMAG0349.jpg)
After cleaning for 20 min.
(http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa310/huffster_2007/IMAG0350.jpg)
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Ok a few issues I'm having. two I need help on, the other i can handle but it slows me down.
First, My new 4L60E trans looks like it has a different mount then the stock old 400 did. am i just seeing things or will i need a adapter?
second, My motor mount adapter plates go too far forward and hit my A/C mount and pump. The Trandapt instructions said this may happen and I may need to modify my A/C mount. Does anyone know how to fix this? I want to keep my A/C plus the belt tensioner is on this mount.
Here is a pic..
(http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa310/huffster_2007/IMAG0353.jpg)
Thats the motor plate (black) and the A/C mount (grey) with the pump removed.
last and worst problem is my crossmember that supports the engine is cracked where the motor mounts sit.
(http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa310/huffster_2007/IMG_20120725_184916.jpg)
Both sides are cracked, I'll have to grind a bevel and weld it up. Is this common on these trucks?
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just pull it and get a high mount bracket later. We use KwiK performance. for the trans, if it doesnt work, just start modifying. you may have to give your firewall some love depending on if those plates are setbacks or not, keep that in mind before painting anything.
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I have dealt with Bow Auto dozens of times. They have always been strait up with me.
Looking like a long way to go, and a short time to get there!
Good luck.
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Pull what for a high bracket? the ac?
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Yes the AC, you are going to end up grinding half of the frame down to attempt to make it work and then you will realize you need a bunch of specialty fittings to get around it all. Look at my install. I used Novaks mounts that utilite the same type compressor that came on the 87 up Serp setups.
See here:
http://forum.73-87chevytrucks.com/smforum/index.php/topic,12120.msg188740.html#msg188740 (http://forum.73-87chevytrucks.com/smforum/index.php/topic,12120.msg188740.html#msg188740)
The Trans mounts should be similar depending on what year it came out of, it they don't match, unbolt the one off the TH400 and bolt it to the 4L60E.
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Ok thanks man, anyone know if my original radiator will be efficient enough to cool that 5.3
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Anyone savvy on where i can get high pressure fuel lines?
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What kind of radiator does it currently have? What motor did it come with? I would get a Diesel replacement Aluminum radiator if yours is anything but a standard duty.
I get all my fuel line from Pure-Choice. I would make sure you get teflon lined where ever you get it.
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I dont know how to figure out if my engine was a standard duty or heavy duty. And my truck came originally with a 305 V8 so it had whatever radiator that came standard with that. I'll check out pure choice, thanks for the advice. The build got pushed behind because I broke my bell housing... twice, while trying to marry the engine to the trans. I am in a very rural area so parts are hard to come by sometimes. I've got the new tank mounted and will post pics of it soon.
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fragola fuel line. chris did you use factory hoses with a stock radiator or swap radiators?
we run dual passes because it puts the inlet and outlet on the same side of the radiator, cleaner install and they cool really well.
what are you doing with your steam tube?
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Got my tank mounted, will have the fill hole go thru the center of the bed with a gas lid custom fitted laying horizontal
(http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa310/huffster_2007/IMG_20120807_180613.jpg)
Busted my bell housing trying to marry my engine trans, believe it was because i didnt have a trans jack so the weight was being bared by the bell housing before it was completely mounted.
(http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa310/huffster_2007/IMG_20120804_214556.jpg)
As a result i had to swap it with a new bell housing. the bolts where VERY stubborn coming out even with heat and a impact I stripped two. Which made me resort to busting the housing off with a sludge hammer. The new bell housing is better anyways cause it has a 12 O clock bolt hole to match my engine better.
(http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa310/huffster_2007/IMG_20120817_010554.jpg)
Here is the engine partially unwired with new motor mount adapters and mounts.
(http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa310/huffster_2007/IMG_20120813_213027.jpg)
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You may want to read my R10 Project post. I am documenting everything from the time the 305/70R4 came out to the time the motor cranks. Of course I am doing this outside like a run of the mill swap would go and I only have the weekends to work on it... Man I need my garage back.
I'd like to go check that out some time. While Earl's just going to get some re-sealing and re-wiring done for the near future, I'm really jonesing to drop something a little more modern under the hood, and would be a lot more comfortable with it if I saw it first hand.
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I would recommend The LS mounts from DirtyDingo. The owner, Brent, is my mom's new husband's friend. His shop is like 4 miles from my house. I got to check out all of his LS parts and mods and a couple of his own vehicles. The mounts are fully adjustable forward and back so you would be able to get them out of the way of the AC bracket.
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^ wish i heard about those before i bought and bolted up my current ones :I I'll have to just go with th hgh mount A/C bracket, if i can fid the right one.
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You may want to read my R10 Project post. I am documenting everything from the time the 305/70R4 came out to the time the motor cranks. Of course I am doing this outside like a run of the mill swap would go and I only have the weekends to work on it... Man I need my garage back.
I'd like to go check that out some time. While Earl's just going to get some re-sealing and re-wiring done for the near future, I'm really jonesing to drop something a little more modern under the hood, and would be a lot more comfortable with it if I saw it first hand.
Call/email me, I am at home you can come by and see it.
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Ran into a issue dropping the motor in. My motor mounts are not lining up. they are level withe frame mounts but about a inch and half too wide. I'm using the Trandapt plates and stock 84 chevy motor mounts. what am i doing wrong here?
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Link/pic of the mounts youre using?
Edit:
Found it: (http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa310/huffster_2007/IMAG0353.jpg)
Same type I am using, how are they not wide enough?
Next Edit:
Here is what I have bolted up, should be the same as yours and should work fine....
(http://mattk.net/replays/matt/Richland%20VII-20120903-00379.jpg)
(http://mattk.net/replays/matt/Richland%20VII-20120903-00380.jpg)
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Yea, thats the same set up i have. It's too wide, by atleast a inch. I'll post pics later when I get back to the garage
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Please do, you lost me to how it could be too wide.
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I am lost too.
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You're killing us on the suspense :p
My pilot bushing should be showing up today, so I will most likely be dropping my 5.3 into my '84 this afternoon. I still need to start a build thread over here on this truck, but none-the-less I will take pics and let you know of any snags I incur. Everything really should be same though as your plates look exactly like my setup.
-Matt
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Ok, I *might* understand what you're saying now. I have the drivers side bolt through the mounts, and the passenger side just doesn't want to drop down low enough to push the bolt through it. Taking 10 minutes to eat and play with the kids. But I feel if I loosen the frame mounts it will give enough play to drop it down, then tighten everything up.
OR It could be I don't have the input haft lined up and its binding is causing the problem. Im about to remove the driveshaft and and trans cross member to pull it rearward. Then deal with the input shaft after the engine is sitting happily.
Meh working alone is a PITA.
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Yea man, that's what i got too. driver side went in but passenger side didnt. I have my trans cross member off. I'm going to try loosing my mounts and wiggling it in
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What I ended up finding out:
Pulled both mounts off the frame, and put them on the motor mounts, then got the trans married to the engine, now it looks like the engine will sit about 1" - 1.5" too far back. I am going to fix this with a 3/8" plate on each side, half bolted to the frame, half bolted to the engine mount.
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Not sure I'm following too well to what your saying. maybe pics will help me lol
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It should just set down in there and once you get one side "pinnned" (bolt through, but not tight), you have to get it back level to get the opposite side down.
(http://www.73-87chevytrucks.com/projects/ad_truck/sandp_plates2.jpg)
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This is how mine lined up with the engine bolted to the transmission. The Trans is bolted to its cross-member and both drive-shafts are installed, so the transmission is in the exact same spot it was when I had the Gen1 360 installed.
(http://mattk.net/replays/matt/Richland%20VII-20120909-00385.jpg)
Now, I did pull both drive-shafts and remove the bolts to the trans cross-member to move everything forward so the motor mounts could be lined up, however this will cause too much mi-alignment with the clutch linkage, transfer case linkage, and drive-shafts.
So my idea is to use a longer piece of 3/8" plate under each motor mount to have everything bolted together and leave the transmission in its factory location.
EDIT
I really need to make my own thread so I top derailing yours. But for the record my setup is an LM7, SM465/NP205 in an '84 K20
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This is how mine lined up with the engine bolted to the transmission. The Trans is bolted to its cross-member and both drive-shafts are installed, so the transmission is in the exact same spot it was when I had the Gen1 360 installed.
That is the issue, the plates aren't designed to put the engine in the same exact spot as the original SBC, typically the trans crossmember has to be moved.
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This is how mine lined up with the engine bolted to the transmission. The Trans is bolted to its cross-member and both drive-shafts are installed, so the transmission is in the exact same spot it was when I had the Gen1 360 installed.
That is the issue, the plates aren't designed to put the engine in the same exact spot as the original SBC, typically the trans crossmember has to be moved.
That's what I found reading up on a little more on those plates. Wish in one hand sort of deal.
I still don't think moving the transmission at all is wise. It will require a shorter front drive-shaft, and something clever for the clutch linkage/shifters. The rear drive-shaft will probably be ok; as I don't intend on lifting the truck so there should be enough engagement left on the slip yoke to not pull out of the transmission.
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Your good bro, Your not jacking my thread... this is helping me. I would be working on my truck right now but I'm working the state fair (12hr days) so I have not extra time. As for the trans problems, My driveshaft seems to be lined up and such. Just cant get the passenger side to go down
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reload I would go with leaving the trans in place especially if you have a manual trans with manual linkage. You should be able to move the existing brackets to match and then make it adapt back to the factory crossmember.
Skyshadow, is the engine with the mounts on it lining up ok, but you just can get it to drop on the frame mounts? Can you get one side in? If you trans is bolted down, remove all the bolts, bolt one side on the frame and lift it back up some and then "roll" it to the offending side.
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OK, I'll give it a try man
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After some major wrestling with the motor I got it in. remounted the trans cross member and now I'm wiring it up.
Took it from this
(http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa310/huffster_2007/20120926_205626.jpg)
To this finally, with some serious prying with a 4ft pry bar
(http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa310/huffster_2007/20120927_172732.jpg)
Got the fuse box on the wiring loom but I'll need to figure out all the little things.
(http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa310/huffster_2007/20120927_174946.jpg)
Like what do these 3 extra plugs go to?
(http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa310/huffster_2007/20120927_174933.jpg)
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What year harness is that again?
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Click on the s10foum link in my signature. I have the pinouts for those connectors on there
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'05 Harness. Believe is was to a 4 wheel drive cause I have a plug going down toward the trans with no place on the trans to put it
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Those aren't for the 4wd. The black one is c100 and blue is c152a
(http://i369.photobucket.com/albums/oo138/calebmcclellan/truck%20pinouts/89305611.gif)
(http://i369.photobucket.com/albums/oo138/calebmcclellan/truck%20pinouts/89305338.gif)
You will need wires out if c100 for the oil press gauge, check engine light, a/c request...
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:o^WOW, you are impressive sir! Thank you. I wasn't saying those were 4wd, saying there are some plugs down near my transmission plugs that go to nowhere which made me believe it was for a transfer case. But this helps me out a lot. Some of that stuff on 152a looks important... Like fuel pump relay and delivered torque, Do i need to wire into those?
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Is this for a under dash fuse box?? So I can put it next to my stock one?
http://lt1swap.com/fuseblock_obd2port.html
Also, looks like it is a 4wd drive harness, That last little plug in my pic is C153 which contains 4 Wheel Drive wires, for front axle switch, and LOW Range Signal. I should be fine just leaving all the 4wd stuff unplugged right? I do not wish to take my harness apart and remove all those plugs.
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That's fuel pump relay secondary I don't think you will use that. The one you need is in fusebox c2. Green/white I think. All the pinouts are on my s10forum page.
Yeah sounds like you have a 4x4 harness. But yeah you can just cut those plugs off and tape them up. Just make sure whoever you have do the PCM goes in and turns off all the codes for the 4x4
That fusebox looks like they are using it to run the entire engine and everything. I would probably use a few of them. I don't like how they're running so many things off each fuse. It's not sealed in any way either so yeah I would probably mount it inside the truck.
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Got it, thanks. I'll hit up the S10 forum
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Does it run yet?
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No, Been working... having put any time in it lately
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Skyshadow - A little off topic at the moment, but what do you plan on doing about the CA smog nazi? I too live in CA and am doing a 5.3 swap and am curious what other swappers are doing. I'm thinking about trying to make all emissions function and going to the ref.
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The truck will be tagged in Oklahoma so i dont have to worry about it :) but as for helping you, two things you can do. Hook it up proper with the O2s working, evap and such and hope it passes or do what i did with my 400whp race spec Evlolution 9, pay a place off to "pass" your truck. only cost me double normal price.
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Sorry its been so long guys. I ran into so serious life hiccups, But I'm back up and running now. Since November I've have got the vortec dropped into my truck with the trans hooked up and seated in the cross member. I also have the body panels and bed all put back together. I have swapped the stock body mounts with Urethane and bought a beer keg for the gas tank.
What I have left is a hefty list that i plan of tackling soon, now that I'm back on my feet.
-ECU reprogram
-Wire the new motor into the existing ignition
-Build a fuel delivery system
-Exhaust system
-Last, Road worthy details such as ball joints, tires and shocks
I'll post everything as i get it done.
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My stock throttle cable is about a foot too short. Anyone know a easy fix? Aside from swaping to a uni cable
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Get one for the donor truck.
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^ I'm guessing a donor 05?
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Well, no. In 2003 everything went to drive by wire, so you need one from a 1999-2002. I can't find my pictures anywhere and my truck is at the shop, but the 73-87 have a square hole with 2 tabs, just cut down the 99-02 to match.
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Ok I got the new cable, went in easy. I see what your talking about with the tab. It doesn't sit in right so the pedal barely pulled the throttle open. What did you cut back? I'm thinking of bending my pedal fulcrum til it become tight on the cable. Should work right?
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My grandpa tried to be cool I guess cause he needed to move my truck. So he broke the steering wheel lock... I have a donor steering column but it doesn't have tilt. I would like to just pull the parts I need from it and keep my tilt columm.Any one have any insight on this?
(http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa310/huffster_2007/20130615_180902.jpg) (http://s199.photobucket.com/user/huffster_2007/media/20130615_180902.jpg.html)
Also I would love to know the exact in and outs of my water pump. I know the four connections are feed and return and heater core by whicj one is feed and which is return
(http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa310/huffster_2007/20130615_173607.jpg) (http://s199.photobucket.com/user/huffster_2007/media/20130615_173607.jpg.html)
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Found out today that no stock exhaust mani is going to fit between the frame and motor. Guessing I'll have to buy some slim headers.
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The 2 smaller ones are obviously Heater core. They are the same size as yours so just hook them up directly from there to the heater core.
If you are using the factory radiator from the truck the top hose goes to the drivers side top opening, the bottom one goes to the bottom passenger side.
You can see the top one here:
(http://www.73-87chevytrucks.com/projects/87R10-Driver/R10drvr_98.jpg)
What manifolds are you using? F-body manifolds will fit in the framerails, including the 2010 version
On the column the pieces you are missing are tilt specific.
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I want to do this as well to mine but as long as i get 8 cylinder in it i will be happy. I got an inline 6 right now:(
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I'm installing a all aluminum radiator for a 05 5.3... would it still be hooked up like that?
I'm using the mani that came with the 5.3. Needs like a inch more to clear. Even went to the scrap yard and got mani's that came off a 05 5.3 without the bulge in the casting from the old egr outlet, still wouldn't fit. Just going with headers, any suggestions? Such as long tube, short tube.. etc
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Been looking into F body exhaust manifolds. Things are hard to find! I found a pair for $150 but I can get Fbody long tube headers for $180. Thoughts? I'm not sure the long tube headers will fit the firewall curve of my truck.
(http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa310/huffster_2007/T2eC16dHJG8E9nyfpnWrBQtqto9B60_3.jpeg) (http://s199.photobucket.com/user/huffster_2007/media/T2eC16dHJG8E9nyfpnWrBQtqto9B60_3.jpeg.html)
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Ok I got the new cable, went in easy. I see what your talking about with the tab. It doesn't sit in right so the pedal barely pulled the throttle open. What did you cut back? I'm thinking of bending my pedal fulcrum til it become tight on the cable. Should work right?
Missed this, in the square hole where it locks into the firewall I trimmed it so it would stay locked.
For the pedal, I bent it to get full travel out of it... Look here:
http://forum.73-87chevytrucks.com/smforum/index.php/topic,12120.msg199271.html#msg199271 (http://forum.73-87chevytrucks.com/smforum/index.php/topic,12120.msg199271.html#msg199271)
If you are looking for longtube headers get the hooker super comp 64-72 el Camino ls swap headers. Flamingbig10 has them on his truck, pics here: http://forum.73-87chevytrucks.com/smforum/index.php/topic,10766.msg162492.html#msg162492 (http://forum.73-87chevytrucks.com/smforum/index.php/topic,10766.msg162492.html#msg162492)
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My grandpa tried to be cool I guess cause he needed to move my truck. So he broke the steering wheel lock... I have a donor steering column but it doesn't have tilt. I would like to just pull the parts I need from it and keep my tilt columm.Any one have any insight on this?
(http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa310/huffster_2007/20130615_180902.jpg) (http://s199.photobucket.com/user/huffster_2007/media/20130615_180902.jpg.html)
Also I would love to know the exact in and outs of my water pump. I know the four connections are feed and return and heater core by whicj one is feed and which is return
(http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa310/huffster_2007/20130615_173607.jpg) (http://s199.photobucket.com/user/huffster_2007/media/20130615_173607.jpg.html)
Your gradfather needed to move your truck so this was his solution? Why not ask you for the key?
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um wow. ask him why he didnt brake the window to get in since the door was shut?. all he had to do was take steering wheel off take lock plate off (or super glue the lock pin down) hot wire the distributor and jump the starter. i mean i respect my elders like (vile) lol but c'mon
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Awesome, I can always count on you for insight man. I bent the pedal already but I will trim the tab.
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um wow. ask him why he didnt brake the window to get in since the door was shut?. all he had to do was take steering wheel off take lock plate off (or super glue the lock pin down) hot wire the distributor and jump the starter. i mean i respect my elders like (vile) lol but c'mon
Lol well to be honest, my grandpa has dementia so he doesn't think a lot of stuff thru. I was actually storing it at his house til this happened. When I went to pick it up I found out that he tried to give it to his preacher then his neighbor.
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The aluminum radiator fell threw, knew it was too good to be true. Anyways, got a stock radiator out of a 03 tahoe. Should I run the stock reservoir/over flow tank or run a fill cap on the upper hose? What have you guys been doing?
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The aluminum radiator fell threw, knew it was too good to be true. Anyways, got a stock radiator out of a 03 tahoe. Should I run the stock reservoir/over flow tank or run a fill cap on the upper hose? What have you guys been doing?
I just got a standard C10 radiator, it works fine.
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Well that guy is long gone. Would rather have a newer, more efficient one anyways.
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I can't remember the dimentions right off, but the new radiator isn't the same size.
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Been putting in work on the C10. I got my fuel tank complete and plumbed. My headers came in the mail and I installed them. They had some fitment issues but I irones most of them out with a torch and leverage. The driver side cylinder one is still hard up on mu A arm though. I do need some help on the wiring, how do I attach the battery cables to the fuse block? I know I need to but I don't know what configeration. I blew three fuses trying to find out :/
(http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa310/huffster_2007/20130709_195551.jpg)
(http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa310/huffster_2007/IMG_20130708_205448.jpg) (http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa310/huffster_2007/20130707_185350.jpg) (http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa310/huffster_2007/20130707_132813.jpg)(http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa310/huffster_2007/20130710_203212.jpg)
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im here for the parts. just dont grab the wrong keg lol nice love it. could make dual tanks like that real easy
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Yea dual keg would be kind of cool but would take up a lot of my bed. 15.5gal should be enough for now.
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I'm losing my mind trying to wire this dang truck up! Has anyone used the stock fuse box for the basic power set up? If so, can you please help me figure out what the heck I'm doing wrong! I have a wire running from C1:B11 to my ignition for constant power, that works. Then I have a wire running from my ignition to C1:A9 that feeds power to the fuse box upon run/start. That wire is also feeding properly. Next I have my power wire to the fuel pump which I'm not real concerned with right now. Then lastly I have a 12v wire running to C152:C upon run/start. I put all this together and I'm getting nothing on key turn. My dash lights up, but no engine turning over. I know my fuse box is powering up. Am I forgetting a set or what? Any help would be grand. Also please don't just refer me to another thread, I have been combing threads that people suggests and I have not figured it out
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let me start off with this, im kind of confused with what your saying maybe you covered it but, do you have a power wire running from start on the ignition to the starter solenoid? i see you say upon run/start and im not really familiar with the wires but this seams different than the start position of the switch since you dont want the starter to still be getting power once the key is switch back to run after the engine has started.
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Stock to the truck or to the engine. Verify switched power to the solenoid. The factory wiring from the truck is going to be used for that.
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So you boys are saying I have to run a indepentant hot wire straight to the starter solenoid? There is no path to it thru the wiring harness? If that's so then I'll do that but why am I running power to C9 and C153:C apon run/start? Wiring is by far my weakest ability.
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the starter should get a temporary hot when you turn the ignition to start. then once you release the ignition to run the temporary power will be shut off. like capt said you should be able to use part of your old wire harness for that. i dont know what that c9 is for but something require power to run lol i mean the c9 might be to the ecm to tell it to stay running then once you turn off the ignition the c9 will lose power and act like a kill switch to the ecm and turn off the engine
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What are you referencing when you say C9, C1:B11 the ECM connector or the fuseblock on the Underhood C2
On the C2 underhood connector, C1 is not used and B11 isn't used and C9 isn't used
On the Blue C1 connector you just need Keyed power in start and run going to pins 19 and 75, and pins 20 and 57 should have constant hot.
On the Green C2 connector you need pin 9 to have it go to the fuel pump relay..
3rd pic down on this post is it before I loomed it...
http://forum.73-87chevytrucks.com/smforum/index.php/topic,12120.msg203051.html#msg203051
the last picture in this post is my starter wiring, all of it came out of the factory harness:
http://forum.73-87chevytrucks.com/smforum/index.php/topic,12120.msg205648.html#msg205648
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Awesome, I'll try it out guys. Thanks.
CaptKaos, you're like my dang C10 Sensei lol
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I'm not sure what you're referencing when you say pins 19, 75 and so on. I'm going off this set up right now http://lt1swap.com/underhoodfuseblock.htm
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the numbers go to the pins in the Blue C1 ECM connector.
http://lt1swap.com/99-02_vortec_pcm.htm
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Keeping up with the thread because just like all the other swaps theres a lot of helpful info compiled in one spot and you never know what problem you ae going to run into...keep it up man. The more frustration when doing it the better it will feel when you are done.
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The LT headers will clear on drivers side but, you will need to trim some of the frame on the passenger and cut about 2 inches from outlets when you run your exhaust, because they point weird you will see what I mean when you go to run your exhaust.
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I actually heated and bent both sides to point straight back with the frame. I didn't have to do any trimming on the frame or headers. I will say that on the river side, the header tubes are hard up again the A arm.
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SHE'S ALIVE!! This is a video by the way
(http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa310/huffster_2007/th_20131011_190749.jpg) (http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa310/huffster_2007/20131011_190749.mp4)
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Nice, it is alway a good day when they make sound.
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+2 definitely a good day!! Keep her coming.. next thing you know it's off to paint jail!!
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sounds nice. but the chain saw? getting ready for zombies (http://www.freesmileys.org/smileys/smiley-violent013.gif)
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Now that i got it to run, I think I'm going to pull my harness, re-loom it, dump the stock fuse block and put the ecu and such behind the glove box. :-\ I know, bass-ackwards way of going right? I was just looking at the set up i have and it looks like its just asking for failure. I want to clean everything up for the long haul.
The chainsaw was kind of a running joke when i took the video, said it was essential in the starting of the truck. lol 8)
So i have been reading up on the "stand alone" wiring set ups, and i have a question. Can i get signals for engine temps and oil pressure from the ecu pinouts? I saw that you can get a speed and rpm signal. I am definitely going to try to wire in a cruise control unit off pin 50. ;D
I'm also still having a little trouble understanding how to properly marry the original wiring of the truck to the harness so that electricity is distributed properly. I've been combing through CptKaos' thread over the 6.1 build to try to understand it.
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You have to have an ALDL interface to get the signals out, but they are being set. The Dakota setup I have has a module that you can hook up and have the ECM sent everything directly to it.
Not sure what you are trying to marry, what specifically are you wanting to know?
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Wanting to run Defi gauges all around. Drop the stock dash completely, build new shell out of sheet metal with a simple set up. Defi oil, temp and rpm. Wanting to run a GPS speedo module so wheel and gear changes will not insite reprogramming. Curious if the ecu sends out signals for oil pressure and motor temp that i can connect directly to gauges. or do i need a middle point like the Dakota system?
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Depending on the ECU it can send Speed, Tachometer, Engine Temp, Intake Air Temp, Transmission Temp, Ambient Air Temp, Gear Position.
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Pulled the wiring harness, trimming it up. Actually not that daunting of a task with LT1swap.com and Cpt Kaos.
(http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa310/huffster_2007/2013-12-16145028.jpg) (http://s199.photobucket.com/user/huffster_2007/media/2013-12-16145028.jpg.html)
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I'm almost at that point on my other project. just want to finish the paint first. I'm hoping that the wiring on mine will go as smooth as everything else.
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Got the harness reloomed and reinstalled into my truck. I put my ECU above the glove box, near where the original "ECU" was. A little concerned if the speaker magnet will hurt it. I also started pulling stock wires inside the cab, removing all wires that are no longer needed.
(http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa310/huffster_2007/Mobile%20Uploads/20140112_115806.jpg) (http://s199.photobucket.com/user/huffster_2007/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140112_115806.jpg.html)
(http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa310/huffster_2007/Mobile%20Uploads/20140112_115852.jpg) (http://s199.photobucket.com/user/huffster_2007/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140112_115852.jpg.html)
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I reloomed my harness just like LT1swap says to but I'm a little confused on one thing. I thought the C1 pin and such would be eliminated during this. But i still have quite a few wires coming from it.
(http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa310/huffster_2007/Mobile%20Uploads/20140111_175841.jpg) (http://s199.photobucket.com/user/huffster_2007/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140111_175841.jpg.html)
This is what i'm talking about. Any one know anything about this? I have heard that the pink wires are injector wires.
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on the 14th little picture it says to label your pink wires as you cut them from the connector.
this should help...
http://lt1swap.com/2000harness.htm
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Thank you, i didn't see that. It just says bundle the pink wires like the fuel relay? Do i provide power to all of them? Also, how do i figure out the exacts of all these pink wires?
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OH OH OH, found it! http://lt1swap.com/vortec_truck_pinouts/1999.htm This means i'm not quite done yet, I'll finish up this wiring tomorrow
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just remember that the "pink" wires are key on powered and "orange" are battery powered.
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GOT IT, all soldered up! turned the key, heard the pump for 2 seconds, turned further and vroom! purring like a kitten on old gas. lol
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congrats on the successful heart transplant.
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Awesome!
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Thanks guys.
I am a little lost on electrical now though. I have tail lights (night running), blinkers (i be it, slow flashes) and brake lights but I cant get my headlights to work at all. I am running a hot wire from the battery to the main dist. block on the fire wall. So i get AC, radio, so on so forth. Any ideas?
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Working on building a all metal dash today. Mocking it up with poster board. still a rough layout. Going to weld it up outside the cab then rivet it to a frame inside the cab. That way i can pull it if i need to do work on the truck.
(http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa310/huffster_2007/2014-01-20163009.jpg) (http://s199.photobucket.com/user/huffster_2007/media/2014-01-20163009.jpg.html)
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very cool idea, but what's wrong with your factory dash?
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very cool idea, but what's wrong with your factory dash?
Its ugly...
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Did you figure out the headlights? It's wiring should be separate than the rest. Are you getting power to the lights?
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I did not, Every thing works except the headlights. Any ideas?
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Are you getting power to them?
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So I bought a new Steering column, wheels, tires and other misc things needed. The truck is pretty much just short tags and fluids of driving down the road. I've decided to grind the body down to a brushed look then clear. I'm gonna run 20" Dodge Ram spare steelies. They are a 5x5.5 lug so i bought 1.5" thick adapters. should make it look better, I hate the tucked look the stock wheels have. The steering column is all good except the wiper controls do not have the delay feature. I'll have to swap the controls, hopefully its not too tedious of a task. here are some pics of what I got done before the dang blizzard hit.
(http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa310/huffster_2007/2014-02-28134611.jpg) (http://s199.photobucket.com/user/huffster_2007/media/2014-02-28134611.jpg.html)
(http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa310/huffster_2007/2014-02-28172111.jpg) (http://s199.photobucket.com/user/huffster_2007/media/2014-02-28172111.jpg.html)
(http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa310/huffster_2007/2014-02-28172141.jpg) (http://s199.photobucket.com/user/huffster_2007/media/2014-02-28172141.jpg.html)
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I like the big steelies.
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slammed79 has those on his truck:
(http://i1342.photobucket.com/albums/o771/desertsquares/The%20Green%20Chevy/IMG_0013_zpsd3c97a23.jpg)
http://forum.73-87chevytrucks.com/smforum/index.php?topic=19418.msg206921#msg206921
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With the factory caps? Oh yeah, sign me up!
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Why did you put low pros on them without a lowering kit? Not a fan of that. I was considering the caps but decided against it.
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I am guessing he did it that way as he hadn't lowered it yet. Check the thread:
(http://i640.photobucket.com/albums/uu122/genosis/2012-10-23_07-22-39_960.jpg)
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He lowered it, looks MUCH better. Cool to see another C10 those steelies.
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Cold weather has been keeping me from doing much on the truck, But it hasn't been all bad.
(http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa310/huffster_2007/2014-03-03164343.jpg) (http://s199.photobucket.com/user/huffster_2007/media/2014-03-03164343.jpg.html)
I did get the new wheels, spacers, headlights on.
(http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa310/huffster_2007/2014-03-07181510.jpg) (http://s199.photobucket.com/user/huffster_2007/media/2014-03-07181510.jpg.html)
(http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa310/huffster_2007/2014-03-07181525.jpg) (http://s199.photobucket.com/user/huffster_2007/media/2014-03-07181525.jpg.html)
Made a list of everything i need to do to get on the road, getting real close!
(http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa310/huffster_2007/20140308_233806.jpg) (http://s199.photobucket.com/user/huffster_2007/media/20140308_233806.jpg.html)
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Well I finished up most everything on the truck. I was going to take it out for a test drive today but, Looks like my trans has a bad pump. Wont engage in gear at all.
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preciate all the knowledge and pics throughout the thread. I've read every page and post of this one as I'm planning to retire this 305 HO in switch for more than likely, an lq4.