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Today at 11:26:00 AM by MY1978
Views: 2 | Comments: 0

Hello -

I have a 1978 C10.  I have had no problems with suspension, frame or steering.  I went to get it inspected the other day at a local shop I have patronized before for both service work and inspections.  The owner of the shop came to me and said he had some bad news. What "alerted" him is that he "heard a pop" when they were pulling it into the shop.  Now shops, on a normal day, are far from being quiet and I would think that "pop" would have to have been fairly loud.  He said my frame was cracked at the steering box.  My heart sank and I was devastated.   He took me out to the bay and using a creeper I rolled up under the front  of the truck.  His shop person was in the cab and started rocking the steering wheel (with engine off) back and forth.  Using a light he was trying to show me that the frame was cracked.  I could not see any cracks but what I did see was the cross member moving back and forth across the frame probably a good 1/2 to 3/4 inch.  The steering box was not moving, just the cross member.  I just could not appreciate the fact that the frame was cracked.  I don't have over sized tires, I have not gone off road, stump jumped, crawled hit any major potholes or done anything that would cause stress to that area.  The mechanic even said, he was surprised because he would not expect it on this truck due to having normal size tires. 

Now I had to find a frame shop, because he could not do the job and come up with some big money.  But something in my gut said the frame wasn't cracked because of the movement of the left to right movement of the cross member and NOT any flexing of the frame or movement of the steering box.  I have a very mechanically knowledgeable friend that I ask to come and look at this issue.  He stated that he was very certain that the frame was not cracked but agreed the cross member had movement - left to right.  The original rivet was removed, holed drilled to 7/16 and a grade 8 bolt with locking nut was put back in place.  The amount of movement is substantially less, down to less that 1/4 inch.

But, he doesn't know if there is always some natural movement left to right since the 2 pieces (frame and cross member) are not welded.  Can anyone tell me if a small amount of movement when the steering wheel is rock (with engine off) is normal?  Maybe roll up under your truck and have someone rock the steering wheel, with the engine off, and tell me if YOU have movement.  We have since decided that all the rivets are going to be removed and grade 8s put back in their places.

July 10, 2024, 12:48:01 PM by mamaya3367 | Views: 1055 | Comments: 35

Hello Everyone,  New to the forum.

I have a 1986 K10 I just purchased.  The seatbelt light stays on all the time with the ignition on.  The buzzer comes on and turns off within 10 sec. but the light stays on.  If I pull the seatbelt the buzzer shuts off but the light stays on.  I've searched the forum with not much luck.  If someone out there has seen this issue please chime in.  I could use the help. Thanks,  mamaya3367
July 07, 2024, 01:16:51 PM by IdahoMan | Views: 321 | Comments: 3

Truck: 81 Silverado. The black washers on the interior side of the vent window handles are breaking apart, and the roll-pin keeps walking out on the driver's side.

-What kind of washer do I need to replace it with?
-Can I get it at the local hardware store, or the fasteners section of a NAPA?
-Anything I need to know about assembly?

Thank you,
July 06, 2024, 07:53:37 AM by MY1978
Views: 428 | Comments: 6

Hello -

Haven't posted in a while but through I would pick some brains on this. I was at a car show over the weekend (spectator not showing) and we were talking to someone showing that had the old R12 system still. My other half commented that you cannot get R12 anymore and if you do find it, it is EXTREMELY expensive. The owner of the vehicle stated that since the conversion to R134A, you can find it on Ebay for reasonable pricing. I have done some investigating and there is something out there call Enviro-Safe Arctic Air and comes in a kit with 4 cans of refrigerant, oil, seal and gauge. Has anyone every used this and if so, does it work.

July 03, 2024, 09:37:08 AM by petrified_peach | Views: 425 | Comments: 8

Hey folks, Iíve got a Ď73 C10 and the horn stays on. The black wire to the button is in good shape, Iíve taken the steering column apart to where the black wire ends and it still stays on. Tested resistance from relay end to the horn end of the black wire, relay end to first copper switch, and relay end to second switch, all test fine. I replaced the steering column last year and I remember the horn doing this with that one too. Iíve tried a new relay, Iíve tried a new horn and a new relay, and I believe something is just blowing up my relays. The last new one I tried now tests about 18ohms. With relay in and horn disconnected, the relay is really warm to the touch. Everything is wired according to schematics (no horn fuse), and I am STUCK. My next step was to try a 4 pin relay with a ground, anything else I should keep an eye out for? Or a different opinion on why itís blowing relays?

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