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73-87 Chevy _ GMC Trucks => 73-87 Chevy & GMC Trucks => Topic started by: Cheyenne1010 on August 25, 2022, 07:50:12 PM
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I own a 73 c10 longbed 5.7 liter with a 350 trans.when I start the truck it will make a clicking sound,kinda like when the starter isn't shimed right and the gear on the starter is hitting the flywheel.it'll start after a couple of clicks and this happens in the morning and after I've been driving it.the starter is brand new not rebuilt,the battery is new and so are the starter cable and the ground cable.the starter is shimmed right,so my next move I'm think is to replace the ignition switch that's on the steering column.any words of wisdom on this subject will be greatly appreciated,thanks guys.
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Recheck all of your connections. Where is your engine block ground connection?
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Keep in mind that most new starters are from China, or from Chinese components....that being said, make sure that you are getting 12v at your solenoid, and that it's not cracked.
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In addition to the posted recommendations above, remove the stamped steel flexplate cover and peer up at the face of the flexplate using a bright flashlight. You may need to unbolt the torque converter from the flexplate and slide it back toward the transmission to gain clear visual access. Inspect closely for any apparent cracks or irregular rust tracks, especially around the bolt circle at the flexplate attachment to the crankshaft. Take this opportunity to rotate the flexplate one full revolution and inspect the condition of the ring gear teeth, as well.
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Engine block ground to the firewall and to the frame
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Does the negative battery cable connect directly to the engine block through a 4-gauge or larger cable? Verify that the connections are clean and tight.
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Not saying it's the problem, but I like a ground on the block, the body and the frame.
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Wonder what ever happened...like so many other posts ::)
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Heys guys here's an update with my truck.im having the same problem with the clicking sound and these are the changes I've made.
I have replaced the starter cable and ground cable with the correct wire gauge,replace the flexplate/flywheel with the correct tooth count and outside diameter and starter is shimmed correctly.ive check all my ignition wires from dashboard to engine compartment and all is good.
Here are my next set of changes I'm going to make.i only have one ground from the battery to the alternator bracket(it is a bare metal connection no paint under bolt)and ground cable from body to engine block.so I'm going to add a ground cable from battery to frame and from frame to body.replace nuts and bolts at body to ground connections and I already replaced the battery.
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My experience with starters that just go click is it's usually the solenoid/relay going bad or the brushes sticking inside the starter. In this case with a brand new starter that seems unlikely, but as someone else already pointed out most of these are cheap chinese junk.
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Adding the ground cables you described is a good idea if they are missing. BUT, replacing everything in sight is an expensive endeavor that generally winds through a blind alley with no exit.
Use a decent voltmeter to take some voltage drop measurements across both battery cables end-to-end, between the cable ends and battery posts, between the block and starter housing, and between ground and the starter solenoid 'S' terminal - all while attempting to crank the engine. If voltage drops are within reason for the circumstances, the starter is the culprit.
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Not saying go buy a new starter, but my "stock" starter on my '77 K20 went out and I bought a RobbMc mini starter. I couldn't be happier and that thing cranks the engine over so much faster, even when battery voltage is low. It only weighs 8.5 lb vs. the stock starter at like 21 lb. and it gave me much, much more clearance to my headers.