Blazer truck buggy

[bluevan]

The "yard truck no more" is off to paint jail so I decided to throw the leftover parts together to make a Trazer.  I have seen this done before and since I have all the ingredients I decided to give it a shot.   My kids keep bugging me to buy a side-by-side OHRV,  so why not build one with what we already have?  Got an 89 Blazer frame, crappy 82 truck cab and body parts, a 350, turbo 350, NP 208, an an empty garage bay.  Its not going to be pretty but I'd like to throw something together with all my extra parts.  I will be mocking things up in the next few weeks to see where the back of the cab will land on this frame.  I was planning on it being just for off-road only?  Any input or inspiration would be appreciated! 

[fitz]

Any good trails near you to enjoy this project when it's done?

[bluevan]

In NH there are a bunch of class 6 (non maintained) roads that can be found if you know where to look, but some are closed during winter / mud season.  There are also few off road parks around the state that vary in difficulty.  My family has a bunch of old farm land in Concord, where this thing will mostly live.

[JohnnyPopper]

Looks like you're off to a good start with a Makita grinder, a square gauge, and a blue sharpie!

I look forward to seeing your progress!

[bluevan]

Been picking away at this project on and off.  The "yard truck no more" is still off being painted.  Yeah - I know, its been a year.  Never doing that again.

Trying not to go too crazy with this project but I wanted to start with a nice clean foundation.  Not planning much in the way of body work once I get that far.  It will probably look like a piece of crap until you get close to it.  Cleaned up the old 350 and slapped on some chevy orange.  Its getting a new intake and carb, replacing the timing chain, and new gaskets everywhere.  Cleaned up the transmission (which turned out to be a 700R4) and NP208 Xcase.  Cleaned and painted the frame, redoing the brake lines, and replaced some bushings.

One of my problems is that I stupidly sold the transmission crossmember from the pickup and the blazer one got put in the other project.  Sourced another one like what was in the blazer on the internet for $40 and thought I was in business.  Unfortunately I realized the transfer case adapter is different and will not work with this "double hump" style crossmember and even if it did would probably mess up the driveshaft length.  Looked at my old "documentation" pictures and apparently there is a tall and short version.  Guess I am searching for parts again.

[JohnnyPopper]

Nice progress, looking good!

The old engine looked to have vortec heads...did you change them?

I found similar valve covers- did you do the flames? 

[Mike81K10]

Should have fun with the build, enjoy! Look forward to pics along the way.

[bluevan]

The old engine I believe is a GM "Targetmaster" crate engine from the 70s with Gen 1 #3998993 heads that are (I think) are original to it.  The block has # 3970010 stamped on the back and #K0820TXB on the pad.  It has 4 bolt mains and unknown internals.  It was pretty clean inside when I took it partially apart so I am just going to drop it in and see what happens.  I am trying to do this cheap since I blew the budget on the other project truck.  I have spent about $400 so far on this thing and it looks like I need a $100 Xcase adapter.

Those $36.99 tall valve covers are off the shelf from Summit.  They seem to be nice quality and I am happy with them.

Joel

[Captkaos]

This is a pic of one on the forum.  it isnt 4x4 but it gives you an idea.



Below is one from a build thread on pirate4x4

[bluevan]

When I finally cleaned the partially stripped down engine so it was ready to paint (such a treat) I searched up some tips and I got guided into going over it with heat before I laid on the paint.  So I took a torch and went over the the block and heads and it seemed to boil out any crap that was left from cleaning.  Work down and you can see it coming out.  After I final wipe down I sprayed it with rustoleum "heavily rusted metal" primer and then a $12 can of chevy orange from Autozone.  Heard its better to brush it on, but we will see how it lasts.

[bluevan]

Well, I am still picking away at this project as time permits.  I really need to put a heater in the garage.

I decided to dive into refurbishing the brakes.  I got all new calipers, pads, rotors, drums, shoes, hoses, NiCopp brakes lines, and some hardware kits for about $375 from Rock Auto.

Despite everything being thoroughly rusted it all came apart without much fuss, but it was a dirty job.  I didnt go crazy painting all the reusable parts, just cleaned them up.

Its been a while since I overhauled some drum brakes, so I have a couple questions.  The kit came with these small clips (see pic) that I have no idea where they go.

Also, the drums I got had these metal slugs on them that I assume are balancing weights?  Two werent even attached when I opened the box.  Another popped right off when I gave it a little tug.  I thought maybe they are for shipping and should be taken off after installation?  Then I looked at the old drums and they had something similar.  Should I weld them back on?  This vehicle will probably not see the pavement much, although the further I get along the more I believe I can make it pass inspection.

[Mike81K10]

Those metal clips plug up the Brake adjustment holes. I like those metal ones better than the rubber. They just press in so you can pop them out to adjust the brakes.

[JohnnyPopper]

Great progress!

Your first pics of the motor had bolts on the top of the valve cover, ergo my question about them being Vortec.

The latest pics have them on the sides rails...

[bluevan]

Thanks for the reply Mike - I am glad that I don't have to take everything apart to put those on!

Johnny, the engine in the first pictures is the original stock one from the 89 Blazer.  Its got a pretty bad bottom end knock.  The one that I am using originally came in the 82 GMC that is off being painted.  That truck got a new crate motor.

I guess those weights on the drums are for balancing.  They seem pretty big - not sure how a drum can be that out of balance.  If they don't interfere with mounting the wheels I will probably JB weld them back on.