> Update- Got an 87' R10 - Pics inside

[justin71105]

I posted twice now that i was in the market for a truck and both times other things happened.  First I moved several states away from home for work and then when I got my new house and money my AC unit went out....

Well I decided to go all in and sold my motorcycle for some cash to buy a truck.  Have $6500 but hoping to find a decent truck that runs and drives for around $3000ish and over the winter get it road ready for next summer.  Just wanting a cruiser that is reliable that I can take downtown or up to the mountains for weekend trips while I am off work and use as a truck when I get ready to rebuild my deck or haul some wood. 

I am being picky for now though, looking for a C10 swb with 700R4 and a/c,pw,pl,ps and pb....does not need to work but prefer to have it all there and just repair or replace as needed, need it to run and drive however. 

Found one for my price range and it sold or he pulled it off CL before I could get off work and set up to look at it though.  Looking like I will end up having to spend around 4500 for the truck and start with getting it running reliably if it isnt already.

This would be my first attempt at putting in a motor with all the wiring and such on my own, have helped swap 350 for 350 in late 90's silverado but that was pretty straight forward and I was just helping.  So the 5.3 will be a bit of an undertaking, I can get rebuilt 5.3's locally for $1100 and up and they include ecu, harness and all accessories.


End goal is to get a 5.3L motor with all accessories and buy the drop in kit I have seen online that comes with headers, mounts, cross member and oil pan.  I am not looking for any crazy power, hopefully I can get around 300hp out of it with little work.


Have been looking through these forums for close to 2 years seeing what problems people are having and how they are being fixed and hopefully will have my own truck to tinker with soon.

[Irish_Alley]

if you only want 300hp why not just get a carbed motor for about 2k and put out about that if not more? save a lot of pain with matching the 5.3 up

[79 Royal Sierra]

I have a 2014 GMC z71 with an LS motor, so I am a big fan. Problem is those swaps are alot more detailed and pricier then most folks realize. The small stuff adds up real quick on the swaps. As stated above go with a mild built 350 and you will be just fine. My current 79 c15 is a factory 4bb 350 and with the T350 Tranny has plenty of power and I have sucky gears. Now I will beef her up later when it is time. I am selling my 61 Impala Hot Rod that cost me alot of money and headaches, cause nothing was bolt on or drop in. Good luck and keep us posted bud.

[nucknoel89]

I'd absolutely say go with the 5.3. I did the swap and it's fantastic.

[roundhouse]

The 5.3 is a nice swap but is more expensive than you think

You'll easily spend $500 on the fuel system alone for new tank, pump ,lines and fittings and that's just parts , figure another $750 for labor if your paying
And that's not including the engine at all
You'll spend $1000 or more on small stuff , not including the motor mount adapters and oil pan

I've seen some nice square bodies for sale hear and there
You just have to be patient but you gotta jump when you find the right one

And you may have to travel to get the right one
Especially if you live in the rust belt
But don't send any money without seeing the truck

Flights are cheap , if you se the truck and like it , but it and park it at a storage lot or rent a Penske truck and trailer and bring it home
Engines are pretty easy to swap if you stick with a 350 replacement , but rust is very difficult and very expensive to repair

But I'd get a running driving truck
Even if to doesn't run very well

Getting a non running truck is always a mistake unless it free


If you can find a 87 that hasn't been modified
You'd have the TBI and 700R4


Cast a wide net
Use search tempest or some thing to search CL in other areas of the trucks near you are bad rusty or just too expensive

Also keep an eye on "bring a trailer" and eBay

We are in Georgia but wanted a rust free vehicle , either a 70-81 Trans am or a 73-79 4WD shortbed  Stepside  and bought one in  Arizona

There is usually no price difference in vehicles from dry states that aren't rusty
Just the transport hassle and that's totally worth it for no or minimal rust

If you live near a major city , we live in Atlanta , you will likely have to travel at least two hours to find a deal , everything costs less once you get to a rural area



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[justin71105]

So far I have figures in the 5k range depending on what new parts I would use and what I would try to re-use from truck, 5k would be LM4 with all accessories, ecu and harness, harness sent off to shorten and ecu flashed, complete brp swap kit - includes, oil pan, headers, all mounts and cross-member and a few other things, a rebuilt 4l6e with 2 yr warranty, dyno with street tune, fuel tank for rear and inline fuel pump with regulator......and I am probably missing some stuff I have put down.

I can source the motor, trans and dyno tune locally, there are several shops selling the LM4 and similar for $1050 and the 4l60e with 2 year waranty for $1000.

I have one of the VW diesels affected by the recall and got my buy back offer last week.  Looks like I will pocket 13k after they pay my car off so I have a good bit I can complete the build with.  I would like to get a shop built as well so that going to eat up almost half that money. 

Have a buddy back home who did a 5.3 LM4 in his 66 C10 and is pulling it to replace with a 6.0 he has been building for a long time.  Like he recommended I will likely drive the truck like it is and get the 350 in it running good until I have everything ready to swap over. 

He said he could come visit for a week or two and help me put the motor in and probably have it running before he left.  He did the entire install on his 66, but he had a complete donor truck for the 5.3 he has in his now.  And he said nothing beats the reliability he has with his LS over the 350 he had in it.


I am also going to bump up my initial price to spend on the truck to 5k, a good many rust free trucks in the area for that amount. 

[79 Royal Sierra]

Looks like you are doing some good home work, and using realistic numbers. I can not tell you how much I spent on chemicals, bolts and all kinds of little crap that added up, and drove me crazy. I love the idea of FI like FiTech, or complete FI as I too am getting tired of carbs, just so much money to get all the stuff done right. Keep up the good work my friend.

[justin71105]

Found a 1987 R10 in real good shape I am going to look at Thursday.  It came loaded from the factory with pw,pl,ps,pb,tilt,cruise and ac/heat.  Needs a compressor for A/C but from the craigslist ad it looks pretty sharp, going to need a good rubbing compound job and buff/wax to bring paint back but looks good.  Comes with a TBI 305 and 700R4.

Hopefully I can make a deal on it and be driving it home Thursday.


Also looking like I am going to make large purchase after the begining of the year so LS swap will have to wait for a good long while. Looking to build a nice big shop after the first of the year to work in and move out of my garage.

I think I have enough set aside for some vortec heads, intake manifold and cam setup doing all the work myself.  Or more likely just buy a 350/290hp or 350/260hp crate motor once I  figure out the tuning and fuel pressure.

Found a website that I can get the Prom from once I get new motor and figure I can run a different fuel pump with regulator.

[justin71105]

Picked it up today - 1987 R10 Silverado 305 Tbi with 700R4 fully loaded in pretty good shape for the price around here.

Working pw,pl,ps,pb and drove it the 56 miles home, died at a few red lights but it is 29 years old and all original other than the wheels.  Factory 15's in the bed need tires and probably will put them on and sale the 22's.  Going to do a full tune up tomorrow or saturday and see how it runs after, I see it needs a new injector plug and probably wouldn't hurt to clean the tbi out.  One rust spot on the rear fender well other than appears to be rot free.

Needs a dash pad and some column work for the inside all gauges work selector switch is bad for tanks may install one to see if it will swap.  Outside is in really good shape other than a single rust spot and a few small dents, need to replace or remove the trim and get a new windshield and a solid back glass.



Pic is a little blurry will try to get some better ones tomorrow in the sun.

[MrFiveOh]

Picked it up today - 1987 R10 Silverado 305 Tbi with 700R4 fully loaded in pretty good shape for the price around here.

Working pw,pl,ps,pb and drove it the 56 miles home, died at a few red lights but it is 29 years old and all original other than the wheels.  Factory 15's in the bed need tires and probably will put them on and sale the 22's.  Going to do a full tune up tomorrow or saturday and see how it runs after, I see it needs a new injector plug and probably wouldn't hurt to clean the tbi out.  One rust spot on the rear fender well other than appears to be rot free.

Needs a dash pad and some column work for the inside all gauges work selector switch is bad for tanks may install one to see if it will swap.  Outside is in really good shape other than a single rust spot and a few small dents, need to replace or remove the trim and get a new windshield and a solid back glass.
Sounds like its a solid buy, and a good candidate for a static drop. I good tune up and it should be G2G.


Pic is a little blurry will try to get some better ones tomorrow in the sun.

[79 Royal Sierra]

Congrats on the new truck bud. Looks like you got a good start. My dad's 84 is alot like yours but man that 305 cant pull its own weight. Sad that his is in alot better shape then mine, yet I got the hard pulling 350. Happy for you and sounds like you realized the LS swap is a big deal, and your going the long yet smart way in my opinion. Good luck and God Bless

[justin71105]

Yea it is going to be a long time before It is completely the way I want it.  Looks like I will need to cut out and weld in some cab corners and a small portion of the rear fender will need to be cut out and welded in.  Today I went ahead and did an oil and filter change, fuel filter, air filter, one injector connector(still need another), cleaned throttle body a little.

Bringing it home yesterday it was dyeing at red lights if I didn't stay on the gas just a little, found two things it could be.  One is the only tank it has is the passenger and the fuel line is patched it looks like with some copper tubing and hose clamps that are not holding well and leaking some fuel.  Another is the plugs for the O2 sensor have been melted from laying up against the exhaust and come apart and will not go back together.  There are a few plugs not connected to anything under the hood, I ordered a service manual to see if I can find what they go to and get them connected and routed properly.

Need to pick up a set of V-belts for it the ones on it are pretty cracked up, may try and get that done this week as well.

Put in a order for the O2 sensor and going to order some new fuel line to run all new for the supply and return lines, hopefully after that it will run a little better.  Also ordered a ignition tune up kit from rock auto for it to install the next week I'm off.  Likely will not be driving it until I get it running without worrying about breaking down.  I need to take a look at the shift linkage, it is pretty sloppy/loose when shifting into any gear a good bit of slack in the shift lever.

Trans shifts good though drove it home on the interstate most of the way and through town about 30 mins.  Had no problems shifting through all the gears, tomorrow will likely be a day to spray down the engine bay with maybe some simple green and get it cleaned up as well as under the truck.
 

Here is some more images of it so far, My camera lens is broke so may not be the best.  Will get some more when my lens comes in and I have it washed up.

[justin71105]

Is it supposed to be rubber fuel lines for the supply/return from the pump to right at the fuel filter or metal all the way.  That is where the leak is at and I'm trying to figure out if I can just get some fuel hose or if I need to replace it all with pre-bent lines

[werewolfx13]

should be short sections of rubber at the fuel tank to the steel lines. Use good gates barricade hose made for fuel injection. I'm sure Dayco makes something similar also, but I'm not familiar with it.

[justin71105]

I noticed some more slop in the shifter today and saw that there was not a shift linkage bushing.  I found the part number and replaced it, drove down to the store and when I got back checked and the bushing was all tore up.  Looked up a service manual and it shows that there should have been a bushing then a washer and then the spring and rod.  None of the parts stores around have anymore of the dorman or any other bushing that looks like it will work.  Will be needing to adjust the linkage as well, loosened the nut holding the shift rod too much and it came out a good bit, don't want to adjust until the spring is being held in like it should.

I have read that I could use a rubber grommet in its place and think I am going to try this with one from home depot or lowes, does any one know which size washer that is used for this?  I am guessing just get one the same diameter as the original bushing I bought and a thing washer.

I changed out the dimmer switch and now my in dash lights work but are very dim, will be looking at replacing with something brighter soon.

I pulled the fuel line of his splice and used a little better piece of copper that fits and the clamps are holding it really good.

I hit the door jamb rust with a steel brush late this evening and hit it with some por15, it had started to get a little deep in 2 spots.

Now patiently waiting for my Rock Auto order to come in so I can finish my full tune up.  Hopefully I will have the shifter bushing in and linkage adjusted and can drive it  next week when I am off work.  Also want to clean up these factory 15's and get some tires put on them, I think it will look good with them and a 3/4 drop.