73-87chevytrucks.com
73-87 Chevy _ GMC Trucks => Brakes, Frame, Steering & Suspension => Brakes and Braking Systems => Topic started by: cursh on May 04, 2023, 08:13:28 AM
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My LMS just took a look at my brakes for me and wanted a disgusting amount of money to replace the booster and master cylinder ($1100). $650 of that was the booster which took me about 45 minutes to swap out myself, but I guess supply, demand, and inflation have gone a long way since I last walked into a shop.
They also claimed that they couldn’t check the rear brake pads without removing the drums (makes sense) and that removing the drums meant they would have to be replaced because they would be notched (or something?)
Does that track? Seems ridiculous to me, but I don’t really know. What do y’all think?
I believe I’ve got the 13” rear drums (8 bolt r20 1988 suburban)
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Also, thanks for sharing your experiences and insights.
Glad to be here. Ive got plenty to learn.
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Welcome to the forum!
What is LMS?
That's like walking into a doctor's office with a sneeze and being told you need an appendectomy without so much as having your temperature taken. A blanket diagnosis without actually looking is ridiculous! I would find a different shop.
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Welcome!
And, per bd, run for your life... :o
Has that shop been there long? If yes, seems like some bad (read greedy) actors are afoot. Sad... :(
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Yeah - I haven't had great luck with these folks in the past, but I don't feel super confident bleeding brakes and they are close enough that I don't have to deal with any dumb stuff while driving there from my house. Our other (only) car is a 2005 Honda Element and I've started driving like a defensive superhero because the way people drive these days is alarming to watch. Besides, I know my old honda isn't worth anything to insurance, i like the car, and we can't afford another one. Resurrecting the burb is/was part of the "a car for every parent" plan now that we've got a baby coming this summer.
LMS is local mechanic's shop, but I picked up the term from bike folks (LBS) so i just slipped the M in there and tried to play it cool. Everything I know about mechanical engineering I learned on a bicycle, and I've found it goes pretty far in a room full of academic engineers ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
The shop was apparently there in 2004 when they burned down and had to rebuild... I've had a bunch of bad luck with shops in Phoenix. I think it's because everyone has to drive for work and there just aren't enough mechanics to get any sort of decent turn around on the work.
Thanks for the input. I wanted to know before I pulled the drums in the back yard and found out the hard way. (the only way I learn, apparently)
Just to give you a vibe on the rear brakes they told me they would charge $2000 to replace the drums, which would be necessary if they took them off because they "couldn't get them back on"
I ran. They got my $108 and I got my diagnosis on the fronts and the pedal feel, so I think it was mostly worth it.
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Crock of doo-doo about not being able to "get them back on"....matter of fact, unless they are out of spec, don't replace them. The only drums available now are made in china.
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Thanks yall.
I appreciate it.
Last dumb question of the day:
Since I didn't catch the master cylinder leak when I was replacing the brake booster, did I already trash the new one by getting brake fluid on the push rod? I've only hit the brakes maybe 15 times since install.
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How badly is the M/C leaking and from where? DOT 3/4 brake fluid will not harm rubber, so chances are great that no damage was imparted. Be sure to bench bleed a replacement M/C before installing it on the booster. It will make bleeding the brakes (and your life) much easier bringing success within reach.
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BTW - brake fluid will blister and ruin paint if allowed to sit. The good news is that it is miscible with water and can be easily washed off with soapy water if done soon after a spill. ;)
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LMS = Learning Management System (Moodle, Blackboard, etc) not a term used for a repair facility.
If your drums are stuck on there and they have to smash them off, they are covering themselves by making you aware rather than getting half way in and going umm, buy new drums, shoes, wheel cylinders, hardware, brake fluid or tow it out, assuming that they are a competent shop of course. Average labor rates are right now $180 + /hour and parts are triple what they were pre-plandemic. Take the parts list price times 5 and that's a rough estimate of what you could expect a shop would charge for parts and labor. DIY is a great way to save $ if you can do it.
Remember the good ole days 8)
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Those prices are highway robbery, even for a big city. The rear drums are generally reusable even though I would understand them not wanting to count on that. Whole rear brake job should take a competent shop no more than 2-3 hours and parts aren't THAT expensive. Any mechanic who has EVER done that job more than once could probably do it in ONE hour of actual labor.
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What part of Phoenix are located in? I live across from Arcadia High School and have my 87 k25 Custom Deluxe with 13"drums on my rear brake system. I have replaced and worked on the rear brakes a few times over the years that I have had my truck. If you don't live too far from my area, I might be able to assist you doing the brakes. I also did brakes when I was a mechanic in the U.S. Army back in the 70's. Let me know if you want help with yours.