How to replace ignition switch?

[bd]

1)  The center nut seats the adapter hub onto the tapered shaft.  As long as the splines and alignment ticks are lined up, just tighten the nut.  No need to pound on the hub.

2)  There are two designs of lock tumbler, early and late.  Did you compare the cylinders before swapping?  Do they match exactly (other than the thumb flags that were broken off)?

[Spool]

I did compare the two - they had their subtle differences, but were GM made and identical in size.

I placed the new one after seeing how there was a groove on the bottom of the column that lines up when inserting.

[JohnnyPopper]

Queue Willie Nelson "On the Road Again"!! 

Nice work Spooler man! 

[Spool]

Thanks man.
Any thought on how to get the ignition lock back out? One day, I’ll have to, or even maybe sooner to do it correctly if needed.


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[JohnnyPopper]

It's been years since I was that deep into it, but the pic of the new one reminds me of what locks the cylinder in it's spot; the spring loaded black thingy toward the bottom. Can you get to that, depress it and slide the cylinder out?

Having a hard time understanding your hex question. Is it a bolt or a nut? Can you post pics of the area below the hub?

If it's all back together I guess the point is moot.

[Spool]

Yeah- it is kind of moot.
The only point worth entertaining the talk of removing the new one is: is it so easy to remove that someone can pop it out and then just reach in with pliers to start it up.

I’d have to take the whole thing apart again to see if I can depress anything.

But, and I wish I had a picture... the old ignition lock had a small groove machine out, which left clearance for the hex bolt to slide into place. The new ignition lock doesn’t have that, hence why I gave up trying to get it in place- zero clearance.

Yet, something is holding the new lock in place- I just don’t know what.


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[JohnnyPopper]

I get it now, sounds like the new one with the spring tab is what is locking the cylinder in place, that's why you couldn't pull it out.

The old one was keyed with clearance for a bolt that locked it in. I think your good to go, you can't pull out the new cylinder.

BTW, you just ran over a weakness in these ignition designs... you can hammer a flat screwdriver into the key slot, break the inside of the cylinder, turn the screwdriver and drive away. Yikes! #whatisatireboot

[Spool]

I joke about this at times in saying, I could steal this thing with a screwdriver if I really wanted to.


Which is exactly why I’m researching kill switches at the moment before I start a new thread.

I’ll provide a teaser though: cigarette lighter kill switch. (Another step to get me to quit smoking too- two for one!)


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[bd]

Spool, you replaced a late-style tumbler (bolt retained) with an early-style tumbler (flag retained).  The original column was probably replaced with a newer design at some point.  Removing the old design tumbler from a new design column will be problematic, requiring a precisely placed square tip screwdriver tapped with a hammer to create a rectangular hole in the housing through which you can depress the flag.

[Spool]

How can you tell I have a new column?

And if so, are you saying I need to break the new lock to remove it?


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[bd]

I don't recall in which production year the migration to bolt-retained ignition tumblers took place, but the 1973 model year trucks had the earlier design columns that used flag-retained tumblers.  So, without additional information, I surmise that the column in your truck is not the original, but from a later model truck.

Hopefully, removing the new lock cylinder will only require a strategically placed screwdriver to create a hole in the right place of the housing to access the spring-loaded release flag.  The process sounds more worrisome than it actually is to accomplish.  It's simply a matter of recognizing the correct location to create the new release hole.

[JohnnyPopper]

A good kill switch will just disable the signal to the starter solenoid, I think.

I'd like to have a layer of insurance.

I can draw up a circuit where all you/we will need is a small magnet to bypass it.

Maybe bd knows the amperage draw of the solenoid is? Match a relay and we're good to go.

Just keep a few magnets around just in case...

[Spool]

Thanks BD. I’ll revisit this when I ever have to remove the ignition lock.

Johnny, I’m gonna start a different thread for the kill switch idea- I’m still researching and brainstorming where to put or which circuit to interrupt, but will def. ask you more about that magnet concept you just mentioned in that thread.


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[JohnnyPopper]

Ok man, I looked at the warehouse today, found a 12v triggered, 70 amp relay, ought to do it.

Will test my circuit theory in the meantime.

First thought is to interrupt the starter solenoid wire with a relay.

[Spool]

Yeah - good idea on the starter. I'd like to pick your brain about that.
I just started the other thread in the electrics area.