thinking about doing a diesel conversion on my suburban

[VileZambonie]

I am in the process of doing this to my Camo Blazer right now.  I just got the 6.2L in it last night.  I am trying to figure out the wiring now (I HATE Wiring) and I am desperately trying to find AC brackets for it.

Got em sitting on the floor from the Military truck I did. You need some?

[VileZambonie]

This is the one I have

[87suburban]

well not right now, im just trying to get some information on what i'd have to do to convert mine over.

[Edahall]

Before you buy any 6.2/6.5, check the bottom end very carefully for cracks.  Most of them cracked around the main bearings.  Most of the 6.2/6.5 blocks out there have cracks of various degrees.  The worse culprits were the  newer 6.5's with the oil squirters.  Most of these engines with the oil squirters encounter catastrophic failure around the 150k.  However, of all the blocks out there, the AMG blocks are the least likely to be cracked followed by the 1982 blocks.  You might be OK using a block with small cracks if the engine is not souped up, but the addition of a turbo could be asking for trouble.

Other things you'll need include:
Hydroboost for brakes
Cable operated speedometer cluster
4 core radiator
Overdrive transmission with diesel torque converter

[Captkaos]

Vile, is it drivers side mount?  Mine has a working AC, but it is the R4 style was hoping not to have to crack it open, but....

[87suburban]

ok cause i'm leaning more to using a 6.5L turbo diesel instead of the 6.2L. when checking the blocks for cracks, besides looking around the  main bearings is there anywhere else that needs to be checked for problems as well? now for the 6.5L's that the oil squirters, you wouldn't know when the 6.5's started to use those so i know to stay away from them? now for the AMG blocks, those would be the ones to look for i take it as well as where on the block would it be casted?
 

[Edahall]

The oil squirters were installed in 96+ blocks.  To allow for oil squirters, the block was thinned down in the problematic main web area which made it even more susceptible to cracking.  Here's a photo that shows where they typically crack.  Sadly, once the crack begins, the crack keeps traveling until one day, the whole thing lets loose.


I personally would stay away from any 6.5 block.  The turbo added more stress to an engine that was never designed to put out that kind of power.  These engines were designed in 1982 with the power level of 130 hp @ 3,600 rpm / 240 lb·ft @ 2,000 rpm and to provide excellent fuel economy.  At that power level, these engines were reliable and usually outlasted the vehicle.  However, as the years passed by, the power output ratings of these engines increased and fuel economy dropped and longevity decreased.  From what I've seen, the average 6.5L block tends to fail at around 150k miles which is past warranty and beyond what the point many original owners drive their vehicles.  However, my 1982 6.2 Suburban is still ticking along with over 400k miles on the clock.  It is low on power but it gets me from point A to point B and gets good fuel economy.  When I tow, I use my 1990 Suburban with the Cummins.

I'm not that familiar with the AMG block because it costs over $5k for that block which is a lot more than what I can buy a good Cummins engine for.  Other problematic areas to look for are cracks in the heads between the valve seats.  These cracks can allow coolant into the cylinders resulting in hydrolocking the engine.

[87suburban]

now for the AMG blocks, you wouldn't know if that's an aftermarket block or not? because for some odd reason, i thought someone builds aftermarket 6.5 blocks. now i'm not sure how true that is, i'm not sure.

[Edahall]

Yes, there are aftermarket 6.2/6.5 blocks coming out of China for cheap but from what I hear, they are garbage.  AMG took over production of the 6.5 engine when GM dropped production.  As you probably already know, the Hummer H1 is built by AMG and it uses the 6.5.  The AMG blocks are expensive but were strengthened in the problematic areas and used more nickel in the cast iron which better resists cracking.  If money is not an issue and you want a 6.5, this is the way to go for good durability even with a turbo.

[VileZambonie]

Vile, is it drivers side mount?  Mine has a working AC, but it is the R4 style was hoping not to have to crack it open, but....

Yes Drivers side A6 V belt set up.

[87suburban]

ok i thought that there were aftermarket blocks for the 6.5 but didnt know bout the 6.2. now to get a AMG block, would you know where to look?

[Edahall]

ok i thought that there were aftermarket blocks for the 6.5 but didnt know bout the 6.2. now to get a AMG block, would you know where to look?

A 6.5 with the AMG block can be bought from the following reputable company:
http://www.peninsulardiesel.com/

If money is not a concern, this might be the way to go.  The 6.2/6.5 is lighter weight than other diesel's of similar displacement so it's easier on front end components.

[87suburban]

now since my truck has electronic fuel injection, is there ways to fool the computer? or would it be easier just get another truck that has a 6.2L an take that harness an put it into my truck?

[Captkaos]

You talking about yours having TBI and fooling it with a Diesel?  Diesels don't have throttle valves (butterflies), so anything related to the TBI is no use.

[Edahall]

You will need to find the wiring harness and some other items such as the glow plugs solenoid.