Recent Posts

1

Instrumentation / Re: Another gas gauge/ speedo question.

« Last post by bd on Today at 03:40:52 PM »

I tested it in the tank and out the tank. ... I know the gage will go to full because if the wires are disconnected it defaults to full. ...

When the gauge wire is disconnected from the sender with the ignition switched ON, the fuel gauge needle should swing well past FULL to the 3:00 o'clock position.  When you ground the sender wire the gauge should quickly drop to EMPTY.

You can also perform a rudimentary check on the sending unit if you have a decent ohmmeter.  With the sender float in its lowest position (EMPTY) an ohmmeter with its leads clipped to the sending unit frame and sender wire pin terminal should indicate ~0 Ohm.  Moving the float to its highest position (FULL) the ohmmeter should indicate ~90 Ohms; midway (1/2 Tank) it should indicate ~45 Ohms.

If the sender float is closed cell nitrophyl foam, give it a firm squeeze between your finger and thumb nail.  If the float oozes fuel when squeezed, the float is saturated and the sender should be replaced with another brand that uses better quality materials.

2

Instrumentation / Re: Another gas gauge/ speedo question.

« Last post by Mr Diesel on Today at 03:11:45 PM »

Might need to test it with sender out of the tank. Use some jumper wires between sender terminals and Truck harness and move sending unit arm up and down. Should tell you if it's dash gauge or not.

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Instrumentation / Re: Another gas gauge/ speedo question.

« Last post by Jimartina on Today at 12:49:17 PM »

OK so new problem. I installed the new sending unit in the tank. It works. Kind of. It shows just over 1/4 full when the tank is full and it won't move til it gets to a quarter tank then it works properly. I tested it in the tank and out the tank.  Did I just get a faulty unit? I know the gage will go to full because if the wires are disconnected it defaults to full. Any input is appreciated

Sent from my SM-S901U using Tapatalk

4

Engine/Drivetrain / Re: 357 (350 - .40 Over) Build Questions Etc

« Last post by Mike81K10 on Today at 09:57:11 AM »

Got my pushrods in last night and installed them this morning. Will soon put my engine in my truck! I could not find 5/16" push rods with a .125" wall, those I got are .105" wall. So they are thicker than normal for guide plates. Larger diameter rods have thicker wall options.

I have been keeping areas that access is not needed closed off to prevent dirt and anything falling in. Including the valley with valves and rods, covering removed for pic.

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Instrumentation / Re: Speedometer Cables - things that should be easy but are not

« Last post by kopeck on May 07, 2024, 07:09:46 PM »

I cleaned and lubed the top cable, and it made things better, but the bottom one was really making a racket.  I may try it, though, since it really won't cost anything.  It also looks like no one local has one that will fit so I'll need to order, so it could save me some time.

K

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73-87 Chevy & GMC Trucks / Re: 75 K20 starter solenoid

« Last post by Captkaos on May 07, 2024, 12:19:46 PM »

Definitely have to pull the starter to get to the solenoid.

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Instrumentation / Re: Speedometer Cables - things that should be easy but are not

« Last post by bd on May 07, 2024, 08:52:55 AM »

If the only issue is noise, have you considered removing the cables from the housings to clean and lubricate them?  You'll need needle nose pliers, a clean disposable cloth rag, a can of aerosol carburetor cleaner, and lightweight lithium grease.  It might be cheaper than replacing the cables if you already possess most of the materials.  Otherwise, a one-piece cable of the appropriate length is a good solution.  Look for a cable having the same type of termination at the speedometer head as the original.  Some factory cables terminated in a molded square-shank nylon key that engaged the speedometer.  Many aftermarket cables are missing the nylon termination and can introduce a bouncy speedometer needle due to poor fit, so beware.

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Instrumentation / Re: Speedometer Cables - things that should be easy but are not

« Last post by kopeck on May 07, 2024, 07:15:27 AM »

It sounds like I just need to find a one-piece that is the same length or a bit longer than what I already have, and I don't lose sleep over it.

K

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Engine/Drivetrain / Re: 357 (350 - .40 Over) Build Questions Etc

« Last post by Mike81K10 on May 06, 2024, 08:00:54 PM »

Thanks for clarifying why!

I have never used aluminum heads before nor guide plates. My prior engines were Gen I flat tappet cam engines with iron heads. I am learning some new things with this engine build that I did not know prior. My prior build was easier to deal with and this one is becoming much more expensive.