73-87chevytrucks.com
73-87 Chevy _ GMC Trucks => Engine/Drivetrain => Topic started by: nativetexan on July 02, 2009, 09:55:17 AM
-
Hey guys.
I am going to attempt my first engine swap on my 87 R10. I got a repowered engine from the local motor shop. It is exactly what I am taking out so I am hoping the difficulty for this swap will be minimal. My father in law has a little experience with swaps so he will be there to help. But, I know there are a lot of smart people on this site so, I thought I would ask for some advice or tips specific to this truck. Any advice would help. Tools, shortcuts, blahh blah blah, you guys know. Thanks in advance.
~Just so you know I have removed the hood, both front fenders and wheel wells, the radiator mount and radiator, grille. Basicaly everything on the front is off. Everything is disconnected on the top end. The tranny is still hooked up.
5.7 350 TBI
-
http://forum.73-87chevytrucks.com/smforum/index.php?topic=12375.0
-
Hey guys.
................... But, I know there are a lot of smart people on this site so.....................
1) First off, i AM NOT smart, so let's get this out of the way.
2) You have all the front sheetmetal out of the way, so that will make it so much easier. Actually, how did you take it all off? Was it difficult?
3) As pointed out in the link Vile gave you and coupled with the fact that i've had to do this swap about 4 times with these trucks:
a) It helps to have as many people as possible helping you. You said something about father-in-law, so i ASSume you are married? Then maybe it will be your wife's job to bring you all food/drink and possibly clean up any spilled fluids--and there will be spills. i'm not trying to be chauvanistic in any way---i'm just saying. If she wants to help out mechanically that is perfectly fine too.
b) lots of paper towels. And what i've found works good is the latex type slip on gloves you can get at any hardware store or harbour freight. You can still feel everything but your hands stay totally clean.
c) It is going to get messy on the floor. Several options: If you don't give a plop then nothing needs to be done. If you do, then maybe put down cardboard or plastic tarp which hopefully won't interfere with the engine crane's wheels. i feel it would also be a good idea to get a bag or two of oildry. There is also a special new chemical product that remove all stains from concrete floors completely; i don't know the name---will research when i get the time.
d) Also as pointed out in the link vile gave, i will try to provide the link that gives alot of detail concerning the last swap i did (not the one i'm currently on). But very busy now---may take a while.
-
So, if I stick to the haynes book I will be okay? I am a lil nervous about getting the back end off the tranny. Is there any advice on that area of the procedure??
The front clip wasnt hard to get off. I am planning the damaged passenger fender, the radiator, and maybe (if i find a decent one at the yard) the radiator shroud/support thing.
-
Remove the converter bolts, turn the engine by hand to get each one. Remove shift linkage. Then support the trans with a floor jack and unbolt the transmission cross member from the frame. Lower the trans a few inches, being careful not to bust the distributer cap. Get yourself a long 3/8 extension and a wobbly socket for the top 4 bell housing bolts(I use 2 2ft extensions). Raise the trans back up and put a few cross member bolts back in. take out the rest of the bell housing bolts. Make sure the converter stays in when you pull the engine.
-
and maybe (if i find a decent one at the yard) the radiator shroud/support thing.
radiator support
When removing the driveshaft, ensure you mark on your rear yoke and the driveshaft a line that will tell you how to put the shaft back in---in other words, the shaft was balanced and it should go back the exact same way, not 180 degrees off. By scribing some line up marks, you will put it right back the same way it came out. Wrap some electrical tape around the U joints too. If they fall off, you will have about a hundred little bearings to put back in each cap.
you could always hire a NASCAR pit crew and swap motors in about 15 minutes. ;D
-
Take lots of good pictures when before removing, after removing and lable everything. Bag and label all parts/bolts. If possible put the bolt or nut etc back on the part or hole it came from.
-
Okay so that wasnt too painfull. Got the motor out and it went pretty smoot. I had on stubborn bolt on the flywheel, but other than that it went pretty good. Now its the boring task of salvaging the parts, cleaning them and installing them on the new motor.
As I look ahead to the future of this truck, I am thinking about not putting any of the emission control back in. If I dont put the air pump and some of the other stuff back in, what if anything will I need to do to run the truck that way? Will it need reprogramming?
-
Do you have a smog test down in your part of Texas, I know the Dallas area does.
-
I think the rule here is; if it had it on the vehicle it has to stay on the vehicle, but it depends on if they know what is suppose to have it and what is not... Besides I know a couple places that will pass it.