73-87chevytrucks.com
73-87 Chevy _ GMC Trucks => Engine/Drivetrain => Topic started by: krigermoose on November 19, 2021, 01:55:06 PM
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Hey everyone, I made the very dumb mistake of not checking my oil. As a result, the truck burned almost all of it and it threw a rod. So here I am, a college student with an extremely tight budget and a broken truck asking what my best option is.
Before it threw the rod, the piston was loosened and hitting the head. Then, the next day when I tried to start it to drive onto a trailer, it came off completely and seized. Because of all of that, I don't know if it's even worth trying to reuse the block or even the heads. I could send it into a machine shop, but if a used engine is cheaper I'd rather just go that route. I'm on Facebook and Craigslist every day looking for good options, so far haven't found something I'm 100% happy with. What any advice on what route to go? How often do people just run it without any machine work? This engine is a crate 350 with very low miles, but it is also old. It was put in the truck at least 20 years ago and then it was driven very little.
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Finish disassembly evaluate the damage/wear.
Get estimates on repairs and compare costs.
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Right on.
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We'd like to hear what happens next too 8)
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If you're on an extremely tight budget, throw a used engine in until you are not.
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If you're on an extremely tight budget, throw a used engine in until you are not.
I thought that also, but wondered if they are as available as they used to be.
Definitely less work overall... ;)
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The engine suppliers are way behind currently.
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Nonetheless...
If you're on an extremely tight budget, throw a used engine in until you are not.
...is sage advice.
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The engine suppliers are way behind currently.
You think it's bad now...Container ships are off the coast of San Diego waiting to get into Long Beach and Los Angeles, 100 miles away. :o
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The engine suppliers are way behind currently.
You think it's bad now...Container ships are off the coast of San Diego waiting to get into Long Beach and Los Angeles, 100 miles away. :o
I do wholesale auto parts, filters and belts/hoses are completely hammered right now, it's kooky.
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Alright guys, I found a used 2 bolt 350 casting # 3970010 for $500, it looks pretty decent. I'm aware that its a '69-'79 engine or something like that, but as far as I know it'll bolt right in. Looks like I might have a winner, I'll update when I go look at it/pick it up. Not covered in oil, looks mint under the valve covers.
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Good on you man!
Are you able to see/hear it run prior to?
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Your just a upside down two litter of gas, battery and oil check away from hearing it run before purchase. ;)
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I believe 86 may have been one piece rear main seal that will affect the flywheel. Keep that in mind.
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Where is your location?
You may find a low miles 305 somewhere too. Not ideal, but should fit where that 350 fit. If you're running an aftermarket carburetor, may be fairly easy to setup for the 305 too.
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1) How did you determine that lack of oil was the cause of the engine grenading?
2) If you could get into more detail about your budget and location, that would be more helpful to me.
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Hey, got an update for everyone. This last week I had family in town and I missed the opportunity to get the engine. There have been a few popping up around though, I think I'll be able to find something different. And yes, I will try to hear it run before buying, as well as checking the oil and all that.
To Mike S, thank you for the information. The 350 that blew up in the truck is actually a Goodwrench Crate engine, originally my truck had a 305.
I'm using a M4MED quadrajet right now, but I'm thinking about ditching the smog equipment, since it will also make it easier to just drop in a different engine.
To Stewart: I am located in the Bay Area of California. I assumed that the oil starvation is the reason because it is a low mileage engine so it would be strange for it to just give out. I did valve seals a while back and apparently they didn't hold up and it ATE the oil. The oil pressure gauge was at 0 and I made the dumb assumption of thinking it broke, since a couple other gauges went out. I first heard a knock, which turned out to be from cylinder #1 shearing its rod bearing bolts, which resulted in the piston starting to hit the head. When I started it the next morning to attempt to drive up a trailer it threw the rod. The only other scenario I can think of is just bad luck, and I have never pulled the heads or any of the bottom end.
Regarding budget: It is very tight. I'm trying to find a used engine for $750 or less and will set aside another few hundred on accessories/sensors/odds and ends.
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Alright: I have found a used Goodwrench crate engine for $700 that turns over. Here is an interesting thing though: My truck's old engine is a Goodwrench crate 350, the casting number is 14010207. Apparently this was for the '80-'85 cars and trucks.
This Goodwrench crate engine I just found has the casting number 10066036. Apparently this is an '86-newer gen 1 crate engine. It's interesting that this one wasn't what was dropped in my truck after the old 305 blew up 25 years ago. I'm assuming this new one will work fine, but does anyone else think otherwise?
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Being in California, can you remove the smog devices without running into trouble?
The only issue you may have with the crate is a different flexplate and maybe different balancer?
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Look for a 96-99 era 5.7L FTW
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A 96-99 engine is my best bet? How well would that work? Do they have cam lobe for the fuel pump?
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Pretty sure they are fuel injected. If GM could save a nickle on a cam lobe they would have so they could pay their union dues.. ::)
VZ what does FTW mean?
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I think I am going to try to go for this crate engine I found that I mentioned. The reason why I'm so hesitant to go for 90s engines is because it brings in the factors like a new fuel system and a computer.
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FTW means "For the Win" usually, some circles it means something else. . .
96-99 would have the vortec heads which are an upgrade over the other heads but they are a little harder to do EGR if you need it and you basically would have no exhaust heat crossover and you would need a specific intake as well.
edited to add: you would also need to figure out the fuel pump issue. No place on the cam for the mechanical, could do electric in-line but it's a pain unless you change cam and make sure the block is drilled for the fuel pump.
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I am not going to worry about smog. It also turns out this block I'm looking at is a Hecho en Mexico block. Is that a dealbreaker for a used $500 engine? I've heard they're worse quality.
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I think there may have been a problem with some but I think they've been worked out. Are you able to do a compression test on that engine? Does it come with a warranty if it starts knocking right after start up? Why is it out of the vehicle it was in? Accident?
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FTW= For the Win!
I just bought a 1996 Suburban 5.7L, parted out a bunch of stuff and it paid for itself and then some. The engine is mint and has almost 300K on it. No ridge, everything inside looks great, such a nice specimen for my next build but if one needed to, you could just run it. You'd need a vortec intake and an electric fuel pump which you could do for $200 bucks. Better than pulling a grease leaker out in lieu of a few dollars.
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Well y'all I picked up an engine. 3970010 2 bolt main, used from a guy who got it with a trans he wanted. The engine turns over fine, I got it for very cheap so I am willing to rebuild it, which I am expecting to be the case.