73-87chevytrucks.com
73-87 Chevy _ GMC Trucks => 4 Wheel Drives => Topic started by: Cody1018 on March 10, 2012, 06:48:57 PM
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Hey guys i need some help identifying the front axle in my truck. I bought just the frame and drive train and was told it was an 81 chevy k20. I searched for about an hour trying to find the numbers on it and could not seem to come across any. I cleaned most of the crud off but had no luck. Im hoping for a dana 44 or a dana 60 and not a corp 10 bolt. Axles aren't really my thing so i was wondering if you guys could help me identify it. Here are a couple pictures i took.
(http://i785.photobucket.com/albums/yy140/Coldblast94/My%20Truck/IMG_20120310_171021.jpg)
(http://i785.photobucket.com/albums/yy140/Coldblast94/My%20Truck/IMG_20120310_171005.jpg)
(http://i785.photobucket.com/albums/yy140/Coldblast94/My%20Truck/IMG_20120310_170959.jpg)
(http://i785.photobucket.com/albums/yy140/Coldblast94/My%20Truck/IMG_20120310_170922.jpg)
(http://i785.photobucket.com/albums/yy140/Coldblast94/My%20Truck/IMG_20120310_170859.jpg)
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Im hoping for a dana 44 or a dana 60 and not a corp 10 bolt. Axles aren't really my thing so i was wondering if you guys could help me identify it.
I regret to inform you that it's a Corporate 10 bolt.
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Im hoping for a dana 44 or a dana 60 and not a corp 10 bolt. Axles aren't really my thing so i was wondering if you guys could help me identify it.
I regret to inform you that it's a Corporate 10 bolt.
Well that kinda sucks. Thanks for letting me know what it is though. How could you tell?
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Im hoping for a dana 44 or a dana 60 and not a corp 10 bolt. Axles aren't really my thing so i was wondering if you guys could help me identify it.
I regret to inform you that it's a Corporate 10 bolt.
Well that kinda sucks. Thanks for letting me know what it is though. How could you tell?
The shape of the diff. and it only has 10 bolts to mount the cover on. If it was a Dana axle, the Dana name and number would be stamped into the metal on the web of the backside of the diff. (where the driveline hooks up to), you can not miss it if you clean the area. They are pretty noticeable.
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The dana 44's and 60's both have 10 bolts that mount the cover as well. I know on the dana axles theres supposed to be either a 44 or a 60 stamped onto the web that comes off of the diff and runs into the tube. I cleaned that area pretty good and didnt see anything. (thats why i asked just to make sure i wasnt missing anything)
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10 bolts are the only ones like that . dana 60s doesnt have a "u" bolt next to the pumpkin it bolts right to it
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There is nothing wrong with a 10-bolt in lighter (street truck/daily driver) applications.
If you can break a 10-bolt then you will have most likely put enough abuse to it to have broken a D44 as well.
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There is nothing wrong with a 10-bolt in lighter (street truck/daily driver) applications.
If you can break a 10-bolt then you will have most likely put enough abuse to it to have broken a D44 as well.
Its going to have 35in tires on it and i might occasionally do some off roading but will mainly be a daily driver. Would it be worth it to rebuild this one and run it till it breaks or would i be better off hunting down a d60 and rebuilding that?
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I have run a 10 bolt front for years with light 4 wheeling and never broke it, sold the truck and was still in good shape.
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I have run a 10 bolt front for years with light 4 wheeling and never broke it, sold the truck and was still in good shape.
Good to know. I guess ill just rebuild that one then. When i hit up a couple junk yards this spring/summer ill keep an eye out for a d60. have to get a another rear axle for the truck i drive now so if i can pick up a d60 for a good price ill swap em out. Thanks for the info everyone. Appreciate it.
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D60 is the ultimate, just look in my sig. :)
35"s and a small block, the 10-bolt should hold up to all but the most extreme wheeling.
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i have broken a couple axle shafts with only 38s in my d44. my buddy with 44s hits the same holses as i do and he only has a 10 bolt and she is still holding up
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Sounds like i should do fine with the 10 bolt then. I was looking at crossover steering and was wondering if there was any real benefit to them? And how does that work when you have a suspension lift?
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ORU's kit looks something like this.
http://www.offroadunlimited.com/orustore/PC/viewPrd.asp?idcategory=2034&idproduct=8248 (http://www.offroadunlimited.com/orustore/PC/viewPrd.asp?idcategory=2034&idproduct=8248)
There is a greater benefit to a crossover steering setup if your truck has over 4" of lift. With less than 4" of lift, you can still gain a little benefit by changing from the less than spectacular push/pull steering setup.
With the factory push/pull setup, a lift kit of even 4"will increase the angle of the drag link essentially shortening the effective working distance which changes the amount your wheels can turn. With a 4" lift you can get a raised steering arm and dropped pitman arm and put the geometry back to near stock. The more lift you put on, the greater the angle of the drag link.
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http://offroaddesign.com/catalog/Dana44crossover.htm (http://offroaddesign.com/catalog/Dana44crossover.htm)
This kit form ORD was the one i was looking at. I understand the normal lift kit/steering issues. Just wasnt sure how a lift kit worked with the crossover steering. Im assuming i dont need the raised steering arm or dropped pitman arm from the lift kit? For example i would order a 4" lift, get the springs front and rear, ubolts, shocks, ect... and get the crossover steering kit and i would have everything i need? And from what i understand ill also need a 2wd steering box and a flat top passenger side knuckle so the crossover steering arm can bolt to it.
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The crossover steering should completely clear the springs.
From what I see: If you were to go with the ORD kit, what you listed looks to be correct. You wouldn't need the raised steering arm and dropped pitman arm from the lift kit company.
However, with the ORD kit you still have to source the steering knuckle (early mid to early 70's Chevy Dana 44's), then drill (or have them drilled) in the correct position and then tapped for the crossover steering arm. Jeep Wagoneers, Cherokees and J-series trucks also had the flat top D44 knuckles which should work for you.
The ORU kit includes a steering knuckle, so no drilling/tapping, etc. You'd still have to get the 2wd steering box though.
Now would also be a good time to install longer brake hoses.
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Ya ill order the extended brake lines as well. Thanks for the help.
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i dont see what the big hype is about cross over steering is. i remember my 86 c1500 and it turns just as bad as my 79k20 with 6" lift.
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Crossover steering is basically for offroading use mostly. The drag link runs side to side instead of front to back. It makes turning to the axle stops possible under all conditions and it drastically improves the steering geometry over factory setup. They also sell crossover with high steer for higher steering clearance. Rock crawlers or trail riders would benefit from that more.
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so for mudding and dd the cross over is just over kill. when your crawling and you need to be able to make sharp turns thats when it pays off. but heck if you got 700 extra go for it lol
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so for mudding and dd the cross over is just over kill. when your crawling and you need to be able to make sharp turns thats when it pays off. but heck if you got 700 extra go for it lol
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