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73-87 Chevy _ GMC Trucks => Performance => Topic started by: brewdogg on September 28, 2009, 04:48:46 PM

Title: high idle sticking
Post by: brewdogg on September 28, 2009, 04:48:46 PM
Hello,

I bought a '79 Chevy recently and am very happy with it. Only problem I have is that the high idle won't kick down for a long time. My question to all of you is, how do you adjust the high idle? It is a 4 bbl Rodchester carb on a 350 motor. Any help would be great.

Thank you
Title: Re: high idle sticking
Post by: VileZambonie on September 28, 2009, 08:12:19 PM
The fast idle screw is under the choke on the fast idle cam. Verify the choke vacuum break is working.
Title: Re: high idle sticking
Post by: brewdogg on September 30, 2009, 02:51:20 PM
The idle speed is fine it's just that it takes forever for it to kick down. Do I need to adjust the choke or could it just be sticking? I sprayed it down with carb cleaner and a bit of WD40 and worked it in. But still no difference.
Title: Re: high idle sticking
Post by: Donut on September 30, 2009, 04:04:38 PM
Will it kick down if you "blip" the throttle?
Title: Re: high idle sticking
Post by: brewdogg on September 30, 2009, 04:25:18 PM
No it won't. At least not until it has warmed up for about ten minutes.
Title: Re: high idle sticking
Post by: VileZambonie on September 30, 2009, 07:36:56 PM
Quote
Verify the choke vacuum break is working

Title: Re: high idle sticking
Post by: brewdogg on October 01, 2009, 03:51:34 PM
How do you verify the choke vacuum break is working?
Title: Re: high idle sticking
Post by: jaredts on October 02, 2009, 12:58:59 PM
The choke vacuum break is a small vacuum dashpot on the passenger's side front of the carb.  After you start the engine it should pull in.  If you aren't sure start the engine and pull the rod out a little that comes out the dashpot and release it.  Vacuum should pull it back in.  Do you know what type of choke you have (electric, divorced, hot air)?  Each type has a different mechanism for heating and opening the choke.  That's where I would probably start snooping around.
Title: Re: high idle sticking
Post by: brewdogg on October 07, 2009, 03:15:40 PM
The choke vacuum break is working. I have an electric choke and I leaned it down a bit but that doesn't seam to make a differance. I will keep fiddeling around with it. Any suggestions?  :-\
Title: Re: high idle sticking
Post by: jaredts on October 07, 2009, 08:47:39 PM
Start the engine and check for voltage at the choke wire.  While the breather is off wait until you think its idling too high (I assume its not too high at startup) and quickly snap the throttle a few times.  If it kicks down its still gunked up.  If still nothing maybe give some more info.--rpm at startup and after a few minutes when its too high (assuming you have a tach).  Have you set the fast idle screw yet?
Title: Re: high idle sticking
Post by: Jim Rockford on October 10, 2009, 06:25:10 AM
WD-40 IS NOT A LUBE. >:(
Title: Re: high idle sticking
Post by: VileZambonie on October 10, 2009, 07:35:39 AM
WD-40 IS NOT A LUBE. >:(

 ???
Title: Re: high idle sticking
Post by: Jim Rockford on October 10, 2009, 04:41:53 PM
WD-40 was developed by the military in the 50s as a rust preventative solvent and de-greaser to protect missile parts. It quickly became a household item when people discovered it had thousands of other uses as a cleaner, rust-prevention agent, and more
Title: Re: high idle sticking
Post by: VileZambonie on October 10, 2009, 05:03:23 PM
Quote
Known as "the can with thousands of uses," WD-40 protects metal from rust and corrosion, penetrates stuck parts, displaces moisture, and lubricates just about anything

http://www.wd40.com/
Title: Re: high idle sticking
Post by: Jim Rockford on October 10, 2009, 06:39:13 PM
sorry, you can't degrease and lube at the same time. The problem with it is it evaporates, that is why it was so good to use on old cars when the distributor got wet. yes it might look like its lubing something, but it doesn't last a day. PB blaster is a penetrate and a lube.
Title: Re: high idle sticking
Post by: VileZambonie on October 11, 2009, 10:54:46 AM
Jim, get yourself a can of WD40 because you obviously don't know what you are talking about. I have cases of PB blaster and use it all the time and it's a great penetrating oil. WD40 believe it or not works better and lasts longer at lubricating parts. I have a noisy door hinge on my jeep. PB lasts one to two days before the hinge dries up again. With WD40 it keeps it quiet til my next oil change.
Title: Re: high idle sticking
Post by: Jim Rockford on October 11, 2009, 11:00:58 AM
sorry, I don't let that crap in my house, for door hinges I use whilte lithum in the spray can, WD-40 don't have the properties to protect the metal against the shear strength. your hinges might not sqeek, but they will still wear out with WD-40. but its your truck, use what you want.
Title: Re: high idle sticking
Post by: VileZambonie on October 11, 2009, 11:05:31 AM
White lithium will not penetrate a door hinge and roller door check.
Title: Re: high idle sticking
Post by: Jim Rockford on October 11, 2009, 11:12:09 AM
never had one wear out yet useing it.
Title: Re: high idle sticking
Post by: Donut on October 11, 2009, 11:42:51 AM
sorry, you can't degrease and lube at the same time. The problem with it is it evaporates, that is why it was so good to use on old cars when the distributor got wet. yes it might look like its lubing something, but it doesn't last a day. PB blaster is a penetrate and a lube.

Yes you can degrease and lube at the same time.  most penetrating oils are just that, oil.  All the do is dilute the sticky grease.  WD, on an old distributor, would "displace" the moisture, not dry it up.  Spray your distributor and wait a week, drive down a dusty road and see how much dust is stuck to the "dry" distributor.
Personally I use both.  PB to break it loose, WD as a light lubricant.  My door hinges on my old Explorer, had the same problem Vile had.  I had better luck with WD over the PB, however even better luck if I used engine oil a week later, after it "freed" up.