Rear Tail Light Harness and Trailer plug

[1967KaiserM715]

Hi all, looking for some input on my rear harness for the lights, currently the harness ends as 4 separate spade connectors, then under the bed it splits to the tail lights, and while there was a hitch, there was no harness when I removed it. So I want to find a way to keep the harness detachable from both the tail lights and from the trailer Plug. If I do some sort of junction block, it will need to be water proof-of which I have not found a lot of sources for blocks like that; plus its not easily detachable.

So my 3 basic requirements are easily detachable, waterproof/resistant and clean looking.

Thoughts?

[zieg85]

Hi all, looking for some input on my rear harness for the lights, currently the harness ends as 4 separate spade connectors, then under the bed it splits to the tail lights, and while there was a hitch, there was no harness when I removed it. So I want to find a way to keep the harness detachable from both the tail lights and from the trailer Plug. If I do some sort of junction block, it will need to be water proof-of which I have not found a lot of sources for blocks like that; plus its not easily detachable.

So my 3 basic requirements are easily detachable, waterproof/resistant and clean looking.

Thoughts?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/5Pairs-4Pin-IP65-Waterproof-Connector-0-3mm-Male-Female-Black-Cable-22AWG-/172008808458

[bd]

So, presently, the rear lamp harness terminates in four spade connectors that the rear lamps plug into and you want the option of "independently unplugging" the rear lamps and the trailer socket pigtail from the rear lamp harness?  Do you need an option of tying additional wiring into the rear lamps in the future?

Here's one source for weatherproof junction boxes from a quick Internet search...  OZ Auto Electrics

I use WeatherPack connectors for the plugs.  They are waterproof and carry ample current.  Several configurations are available to suit your needs.

[1967KaiserM715]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/5Pairs-4Pin-IP65-Waterproof-Connector-0-3mm-Male-Female-Black-Cable-22AWG-/172008808458

interesting. although 22awg seems a little small, BUT I do eventually plan on running LED lights, so plausible.

So, presently, the rear lamp harness terminates in four spade connectors that the rear lamps plug into and you want the option of "independently unplugging" the rear lamps and the trailer socket pigtail from the rear lamp harness?  Do you need an option of tying additional wiring into the rear lamps in the future?

Here's one source for weatherproof junction boxes from a quick Internet search...  OZ Auto Electrics

I use WeatherPack connectors for the plugs.  They are waterproof and carry ample current.  Several configurations are available to suit your needs.

yeah I will want to add additional lighting in the future, thus the need/want for being able to disconnect; plus also for removing the bed and just general repair/trouble shooting.

I completely did not think of WeatherPack plugs, that may be perfect, I can do, say an 6 pin plug, maybe make an adapter for the trailer lighting, and that would give me a few openings to add wiring later. I would like to add auxiliary/reverse lights soon, but something better then the open spades needs to be done first.

[bd]

Deutsch DT and DTP connectors are another option that are more compact than WeatherPack yet similar in ampacity.  While the Amphenol AT mimics the DT series at lower cost and the individual pieces are interchangeable with Deutsch DT.  Yet another option is the Metripack 280 series sealed connectors. 

[75gmck25]

This is the standard wiring for most trailer connectors.
4 wire connector - brake, ground, left turn, right turn
7 wire connector - adds brake controller wire, back-up lights, and 12 volt charge wire for powering RV accessories on trailer

If your truck still has the original GM wiring, you can plug in this adapter and it will give you a 4 wire plug.  It includes a cap to close off the plug end when there is no trailer.  I just coiled up the wire and zip tied it to the hitch so it is out of the way, but you could always used a velcro tie instead.
http://www.hopkinstowingsolutions.com/products/vehicle-wiring-harnesses/chev_gmc_pickups_68-84_blazer_jimmy_suburban_73-84.html

If you want  to have a full 7 wire adapter you will need additional wiring.  You can use the adapter above to connect to the vehicle, and then add this adapter for the additional 3 wires.  The additional 3 wires are often  connected to separate fuse block in the engine compartment or cab, and run directly back to the adapter.  The 12 volt charge wire is usually at least a 10 gauge wire, since it may be providing constant power to a charge a trailer battery, and I think the brake controller may also need a little larger wire.
You could probably just add a 3 wire plug for the additional wires so that you could easily get the entire adapter apart for troubleshooting.
https://www.amazon.com/Trailer-Adapter-convert-trailer-97015/dp/B000WG83HO

Bruce

[hatzie]

The stock GM tail lamp wiring disconnect after 1984 or 85 or so was a four position 2x2 square Weatherpack.  You can buy all the parts from the usual suspects...  Here's a Kit on Amazon.  https://www.amazon.com/Position-Square-Weather-Pack-3-pack/dp/B005OS5E6I

Weatherpack connectors are good for 20A, Deutsch DT are good to 13A, Sealed Metripack 280 like the GMT400 tail lamps are good for 30A.  Deustch DT open terminal, Metripack, and Weatherpack can be terminated with the same tooling. Deusch DT machined closed barrel terminals can be crimped with a Daniels AF8-TH1A or HT48.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Metripack-280-Series-4-Conductor-Connector-Set-14-ga-Metri-pack-/361334160788

If you terminate the frame and bed harnesses following the pin-out in the 1985 GM factory wiring diagrams you can use the Hopkins trailer wiring tee with no mods.

The Trailer prep on the GMT400 added two 12AWG wires White and Blue for trailer brake and raw Battery voltage.  Not sure what, if any, additional wires the camper and trailer prep on the 73-87 chassis included.