73-87chevytrucks.com
73-87 Chevy _ GMC Trucks => Engine/Drivetrain => Topic started by: Joec123able on November 17, 2018, 04:28:19 PM
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I fill the dang radiator up, one ride later it goes right back down to this line I’m pointing at and stops. I didn’t think coolant went through this line? The back passenger side of the engine, starter and front of trans have coolant drops hanging. I don’t know where it could be coming from. Trans fluid is clean red and coolant is clean green. 1973 Chevy th350, 350 engine 205 transfer case (http://i1354.photobucket.com/albums/q681/joec123able/B2E333B5-6806-4FDD-8AC1-A23D0ADA7362_zpsq4ncxo4h.jpg) (http://s1354.photobucket.com/user/joec123able/media/B2E333B5-6806-4FDD-8AC1-A23D0ADA7362_zpsq4ncxo4h.jpg.html)
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All the wet spots on the radiator is my spill
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Pressure test it
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Found the leak, and I ain’t happy. It’s the intake
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looks like its time to upgrade if you still have a stock intake
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I'm just being nosy Irish; What would you recommend over stock?
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dont really have a preference but you want one thats ideal for your use. if you want more power in the higher rpms then get one for that, if you want a one for more lower Tq then get one for that. ive heard that the stock one is better for Tq than most intakes. so i cant really suggest one and im sure someone on here has done the research. might have to search for it to help others out lol
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I would say if you use your truck for towing, you may want to think about sticking with the stock cast-iron intake manifold. From my experience, trucks with aluminum intakes tend to suck intake manifold gaskets under high load situations. Other than that...match the intake manifold RPM range to your vehicle and engine. Unless you are a street/strip truck, all you will ever need is a dual-plane intake manifold that has a carburetor mounting surface that matches your intended carb. Some small details like ports in the right place to match your vacuum accessories, etc. can be a little different between manufacturers.