Author Topic: Tie Rod on a 1984 K10  (Read 4650 times)

Offline ehjorten

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Re: Tie Rod on a 1984 K10
« Reply #15 on: January 04, 2019, 08:50:56 AM »
So the way that the self-adjuster works is that when you back-up it ratchets and adjusts the brakes.  Because it looks like you have new brake hardware, at least on the RH side, the first thing that I would check to see is if the adjuster arm is properly engaging the star-wheel!  I have found on replacement hardware kits, that sometimes the adjuster arm is not formed properly and does not engage the star wheel correctly.  What this causes is that the brakes do not self adjust!

How you would check is with the drum off, see if you can hand spin the star wheel.  One way it should ratchet on the adjuster arm and you will hear a positive "click-click-click".  The other way, it should be impossible to rotate unless you pull the adjuster arm away from the star wheel.  In other words, the adjuster arm should prevent you from spinning the star wheel to "back-off" the adjuster, or collapse the star wheel screw so that the linings pull away from the drum.  If the adjuster arm does not function in this manner, it will not self-adjust properly.

Also, in your video you ask what that slot in the drum is for.  It should have a rubber plug in it, but that hole is there for you to reach into the brake drum, pull pack the adjuster arm away from the star wheel, and simultaneously rotate the star wheel to back off the shoes away from the drum, so that you can remove the drum to service the brakes!  As the drum wears, it will get a lip on the inside of the drum that will prevent you from sliding the drum off, unless you collapse the shoes inward so that the lip will clear the shoes.  Make sense?

They make a set of tools for working on drum brakes, that looks like 1) a hook, to pull the adjuster arm away from the star wheel, and 2) a funny looking curved tool with a flat blade on the end of it.  That is used to rotate the star wheel.  Most people like myself just use something with a hook on it and then a screwdriver to do it, but you have to visualize the mechanism inside the drum that you cannot see, and operate it while blind.  Some brakes have the access slot on the drum and other have it in the backing plate.  In the case where the slot is in the backing plate, you now don't hook the adjuster arm and pull it towards you, you have to just push it away from the star wheel.
-Erik-
1991 V3500 - Gen V TBI 454, 4L80E, NP205, 14 bolt FF, D60, 8" Lift on 35s
1977 K20 Silverado - 350, THM350, NP203, 14 bolt FF, D44, Stock Lift on 31s
1969 Chevelle Malibu Sport Coupe - EFI350, THM350
1968 Chevrolet Step-side Pickup - 300HP L6

Offline JohnnyPopper

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Re: Tie Rod on a 1984 K10
« Reply #16 on: January 05, 2019, 07:47:14 AM »
I was pretty sure the original wobble would go away with that much slop between the spindle assemblies.

Kind of like when your idler arm goes; you reach a certain speed range and the wobble starts.

At least that is out of the way!
1957 Apache 3100 235 Inline 6, 3 on the tree
1973 C-20, 3+3 454 4BBL TH400  Water Injection
1978 K-10, 350 4BBL TH350 NP203 M.M. Part time Kit/Hubs
1980 C-10 under construction

Offline Ozark

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Re: Tie Rod on a 1984 K10
« Reply #17 on: January 05, 2019, 06:20:09 PM »
Hey guys, I appreciate all the replies! Checking back in to report I finally got the brake job done (new cylinders/hardware kits/shoes) as well as replaced the parking brake cables on both sides. Took me longer than planned with family/holidays.

She drives like a dream now! Onto the next project (there's no shortage of them) -- probably replacing seat springs and working on interior and wiring.

Thanks again!
« Last Edit: January 05, 2019, 06:25:24 PM by Ozark »