Author Topic: 1975 K-10 Project  (Read 115995 times)

Offline BBM3

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Re: 1975 K-10 Project
« Reply #285 on: February 12, 2016, 04:14:31 PM »
I would have to strongly agree with you on this. Not sure why but my gut says greasing wheel bearings is a great idea.

Thanks for the laugh!

For the record I am temporarily reusing the existing bearings just wanted to squeeze the old grease out and repack with new.

 

Offline roundhouse

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Re: 1975 K-10 Project
« Reply #286 on: February 12, 2016, 09:34:57 PM »

I would have to strongly agree with you on this. Not sure why but my gut says greasing wheel bearings is a great idea.

Thanks for the laugh!

For the record I am temporarily reusing the existing bearings just wanted to squeeze the old grease out and repack with new.
if the old ones are in good condition.  Reusing them is fine
They are much better quality that new ones    Almost all of which are now made in China


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Offline enaberif

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Re: 1975 K-10 Project
« Reply #287 on: February 12, 2016, 09:48:19 PM »

I would have to strongly agree with you on this. Not sure why but my gut says greasing wheel bearings is a great idea.

Thanks for the laugh!

For the record I am temporarily reusing the existing bearings just wanted to squeeze the old grease out and repack with new.
if the old ones are in good condition.  Reusing them is fine
They are much better quality that new ones    Almost all of which are now made in China


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Just get some Timkens... Even if made in China still one of the better quality better brands.

Offline Irish_Alley

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Re: 1975 K-10 Project
« Reply #288 on: February 12, 2016, 09:51:33 PM »
I always clean the bearings really good to new then check for flat spots or pits and make sure they can spin freely by hand and then repack
If you can’t tell yourself the truth, who can you tell it to?~Irish_Alley

When you have eliminated the impossible, whatever remains, however improbable, must be the truth ~Sherlock Holmes

Offline BBM3

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Re: 1975 K-10 Project
« Reply #289 on: February 13, 2016, 03:39:28 PM »
I always clean the bearings really good to new then check for flat spots or pits and make sure they can spin freely by hand and then repack

The rollers on LH outer are less than perfect so I am going to replace all of the bearings along with seals and slingers after I test drive it with the new u-joints.

Speaking of front axle u-joints....
My little press did not have the guts to press the RH u-joint out so a gave up and took the axle to a local shop to have the old u-joint removed and replaced with the new one I provided them.
My Son picked the axle up last night and when I inspected it I found they forgot to install the new "C" clips.
So I am dead in the water until they open again Monday morning.
I could fire up my TIG welder and tack the bearing caps to the yokes as hardcore off roaders do. Not sure yet.

This is why I prefer doing my own work and I am not suggesting that I don't make mistakes.
I make plenty of mistakes however when I do the only cost is to my ego.

Offline Captain Swampy

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Re: 1975 K-10 Project
« Reply #290 on: February 16, 2016, 07:15:12 PM »
If they are installed, couldn't you put the clips in?
1987  350TBI 700R4  4X4  4.56 gears  33" BFG All Terrain


http://forum.73-87chevytrucks.com/smforum/index.php?topic=32209.0

Offline BBM3

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Re: 1975 K-10 Project
« Reply #291 on: February 17, 2016, 01:54:16 PM »
If they are installed, couldn't you put the clips in?

The clips were left with the shop.
No matter I have it all back together and the new u-joints did the trick.

Offline BBM3

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Re: 1975 K-10 Project
« Reply #292 on: February 17, 2016, 02:03:47 PM »
I think I need a new distributer.
Not only are the holes of the weights elongated but the pins are almost completely worn through.
The vacuum advance is seized too.

I'll bet my truck will run much better and make more power with working mechanical and vacuum advance.


Offline LTZ C20

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Re: 1975 K-10 Project
« Reply #293 on: February 17, 2016, 02:53:10 PM »
I think I need a new distributer.
Not only are the holes of the weights elongated but the pins are almost completely worn through.
The vacuum advance is seized too.

I'll bet my truck will run much better and make more power with working mechanical and vacuum advance.


Yea that's just un-christian right there. Take it out back, shoot it, put it out of its misery, bury it. Then go to the dealer and get a brand new one, shouldn't be more than $150 bucks for a Delco unit. Your truck is HEI right or is it still a points system?

Unless you want to keep it all original and then a thorough rebuild and recondition is in order.
LTZ Cheyenne C20

Offline BBM3

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Re: 1975 K-10 Project
« Reply #294 on: February 17, 2016, 03:42:51 PM »
Yep it is HEI.
I just got back from the parts store with a new one. Not a Delco but with stacked discounts it was $100 including cap, coil, rotor, and gasket.
It'll do.

Offline BBM3

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Re: 1975 K-10 Project
« Reply #295 on: February 17, 2016, 05:43:14 PM »
New distributor installed and fired right up. Initial timing set. Can't wait to see how it runs on the road.
Along with improved performance I expect a noticeable improvement in fuel economy.
I feel like a dweeb now that I realize I have been driving this truck with nothing more than fixed initial timing.



Offline LTZ C20

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Re: 1975 K-10 Project
« Reply #296 on: February 17, 2016, 09:01:17 PM »
Yep it is HEI.
I just got back from the parts store with a new one. Not a Delco but with stacked discounts it was $100 including cap, coil, rotor, and gasket.
It'll do.
Good enough I guess.
LTZ Cheyenne C20

Offline BBM3

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Re: 1975 K-10 Project
« Reply #297 on: February 17, 2016, 09:28:00 PM »

Good enough I guess.

I think I know your stance on genuine GM parts and I tend to agree even when the GM logo is followed by  Made in Taiwan

Offline ROARING 455

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Re: 1975 K-10 Project
« Reply #298 on: February 18, 2016, 07:59:05 PM »
That's a real nice Chevy u got there! 8)

Offline LTZ C20

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Re: 1975 K-10 Project
« Reply #299 on: February 18, 2016, 10:42:35 PM »

Good enough I guess.

I think I know your stance on genuine GM parts and I tend to agree even when the GM logo is followed by  Made in Taiwan
For the most part I am an OEM parts kinda guy, but it depends on what for. Engine control parts like, spark plugs, electrical sensors, a distributor, injectors, transmission parts for the most part, nothing is better than factory. However trusted names in reliability I'm ok with. For ex. my block is GM, the cam is a Comp, the heads are Dart, intake is Edelbrock. But brake parts, u joints, bushings for various body and suspension pieces, I go either what I know is proven and I trust.

That being said, I just dropped 800 bucks on all new GM front end suspension and steering components.
« Last Edit: February 18, 2016, 10:46:01 PM by LTZ C20 »
LTZ Cheyenne C20