Timing questions

[xCaliC10x]

I replaced my cap, HEI coil and module, and replaced the springs with the medium silver springs in the kit I got from Jegs. The ones I took out were all bent and looked really weak. I have a dial back timing light, I want to know what to set the motor at. I have vacuum advance, and no EGR. I also have a dampner with marks all the way up to I believe 60 degrees. From what I have read, I want around 12-14 initial with the vacuum canister disconnected and the line plugged. I have no tach, so I can't figure out where the centrifugal comes in at, and where its all in. I also haven't looked to see what my vacuum canister adds. It is running off the vacuum T in the manifold that supplies the brake booster. I figured I would see what I needed to look for before I tinkered. Thanks guys!

Mike

[xCaliC10x]

37 views and NO input? 

[screamin86]

It all depends on how it runs too much and it will cause pinging and sometimes make it feel slugish and too little may feel ok or sluggish. Usuily from what I've done is set it at let's say 11deg then run it and slowly bump it up until I get pinging then back it off just before it pings and lock it down. I need to reshoot mine but its in the 15-17 range inital now but it all varies with engine combos fuel ect ect.

[Grim 82]

The method of advancing it til it pings and then backing it off a little works so universally because it gets feedback from your motor and all the variables that it has. A textbook answer for your motor may not be optimal for another motor, but a guideline would be to have about 36 degrees total. HEI distributors typically have about 20 degrees of centrifugal advance, leaving your initial at 16. You will need a tach to help you choose the right springs. You want a steady curve that starts just off idle and is all in by about 3k rpm.

[screamin86]

The method of advancing it til it pings and then backing it off a little works so universally because it gets feedback from your motor and all the variables that it has. A textbook answer for your motor may not be optimal for another motor, but a guideline would be to have about 36 degrees total. HEI distributors typically have about 20 degrees of centrifugal advance, leaving your initial at 16. You will need a tach to help you choose the right springs. You want a steady curve that starts just off idle and is all in by about 3k rpm.

like he said lol but the spring issue is part of my issue the distributer im using i had in a 305 with almost the same specs as this 350 im running in my truck now but i had put light springs in it and when it was in the 305 i had a 9 1/2in 3500 stall behind it so it was flashing quick and seemed to help it but its way too loose for my truck. just play around with it some an see what your truck likes. the timming light i use has a digital display and a built in tach it sells for in the $120 range from summit but i got it elseware for about $80.

here you go found it cheaper.
http://www.google.com/products/catalog?hl=en&client=firefox-a&hs=CFY&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&q=equus+timing+light&um=1&ie=UTF-8&cid=6608798906472206702&ei=2uQlTYrjBoWBlAfpnoXAAQ&sa=X&oi=product_catalog_result&ct=image&resnum=7&ved=0CEgQ8gIwBg# 

[Jim Rockford]

you need a tach , or better yet a dial back timing light with a tach to tune your advance properly.

[screamin86]

I agree the timming light I run is a digital one with a tach dial back ect I gave like $90 for it new.