73 Shortbed Stepside Complete Rebuild (LOTS OF PHOTOS)

[mattevandavis]

Optima batteries are shipped with specially configured hold-downs (pucks) that conform to the circular cell shape.  From the Optima website...

"All new REDTOP batteries (except the 6-volt battery) and all new YELLOWTOP batteries (except the H6, Group 51, DS46B24R, 27 & 31) come with a variety of trays, pucks and other fitment adapters. If your battery did not come with this set of adapters, please contact our customer service team at info@optimabatteries.com and be sure to have your original retailer's contact information handy."

Are you saying the puck supplied by Optima didn't fit correctly?

Using a optima d34/78 the puck will make the battery to large for the factory style tray.  With out the puck the battery sits in the correct location, but the factory mount will hit the side of the battery before the bolt hole will align.  It is possible that I need a smaller battery.  Optima lists several under their battery finder including a 75/25 which has a smaller footprint.  Summit Racing suggested the 34/78 which is what I purchased. 

[mattevandavis]

More work, and not a lot of photos.  Mostly because it was a bunch of small projects, partly because we were moving all day.

First we looked at how the hitch (which allegedly fits) would mount.  Looks like it only fits 8' beds and definitely not trucks with HD springs; it hits the spring perch.


Even if I had the shorter standard springs it looks like it would extend past the frame.  We discused making a space or bracket that it could mount to, but ultimately we did not feel it would add that much capacity to the truck.  The most I'd ever haul with the truck would be about 4000 lbs (Car trailer and a Miata)  A bumper mount receiver can more than accommodate that load.  I will install a Curt 19030 that is good for 500lbs TW and a 5000lb trailer.

Several smaller tasks:
We installed the radiator overflow tank and hose, and some oil pan harness clips.  The harness clips and oe correct overflow hose came from Ground Up (ss396). 
We routed the ignition wire, mounted the relay for the HEI, routed the main power lead for the HEI.
We installed the parking brake cables, blasted and painted the the brackets, and adjusted the parking brake
We saw that the transmission was leaking from the PTO covers.  Apparently the OE gaskets were not up to the task.  We removed them and used Grey RTV as a gasket instead.  Not OE, but less likely to leak.
We noticed the replacement hood hinges were a bit loose (left to right play), so we dug out the old ones.  They had very little play, and moved freely so they went to the blast cabinet and got a fresh coat of paint.
We started looking at the mounting location of the vapor canister.  I found a bunch of photos online of various brackets, but only one link (from this forum) that matched mine.  We will have to drill holes since this is not the oe core support, but at least I have reference.

[VileZambonie]

Wrong hitch. It should have a cut out or bump out. Check out this site https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Hitch/GMC/C%2FK+Series+Pickup/1973/75034-011.html?VehicleID=197363182

[mattevandavis]

Wrong hitch. It should have a cut out or bump out. Check out this site https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Hitch/GMC/C%2FK+Series+Pickup/1973/75034-011.html?VehicleID=197363182

We tried that already.   The cutout fits where standard springs would fit.  The rest goes past the end of the frame

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[VileZambonie]

Sounds like you were sent the wrong hitch then. You can see the three holes in your picture where the correct hitch will match up.

[mattevandavis]

More work and some photos of last weeks work.

We installed the bumper mount hitch. I finished the Relay install for the HEI.  We installed the last bit of fuel line, installed the washer lines installed the original hinges, bench bled the master cylinder, refilled the transmission.  Items not shown are the test fitting of the carb and distributor.  We found that we needed to change some of the heater core plumbing to prevent interference with the fuel line.  We will move the line from the manifold to the top plug of the water pump.  From what I have read this will man it will circulate coolant to the heater core before it is up to temp.  Should not be an issue.

Last Weeks Pics:






This Weeks Pics:

[JohnnyPopper]

Nice Work man!

I see you suffer from 'firewall divots' too!

Yours are not that bad though.

I'm going the extra mile and filling them in, can't stand how bad mine look.
 

[roundhouse]

Wow
Nice work !

[Shifty]

Nice!

[mattevandavis]

Inching closer.

We finished up some wiring (adding a diode to the alternator), and adding in the ground to the battery. Re-primed the oil to check the in cab pressure gauge and make sure we had no leaks.  Then we put in the distributor and set the initial timing.  Added in the spark plugs - not the cleanest install i have ever done, but out of the box plugs never seem to be short enough or long enough.  The good news is the starter works and the engine turns over.

We also tested the other electrical systems while the battery was connected.  All of the lights worked.  We had an issue with the emergency flashers.  They did not blink while the running lights were on.  We pulled the flasher module - even though it is new it has sat for several years.  We will replace both the emergency and signal modules.

We took a brief break to move the 57 210 wagon to the lift and my truck where the wagon was.  The 57 has a 327 at the engine shop, and the shell is being prepped for the metal man.  The tin woody in the back will more than likely be finding a new home.

After the move we installed the carb and ran the fuel lines.  I needed a molded 90 fuel line and ended up with a cut your own that had several elbows.  The brake booster got a vapor filter - not stock, but I'd rather reduce the chance i need a new booster any time soon.  The vac line for the advance will get tidied up when we set the timing.

We tried several options for an accelerator cable, but all of them were too long.  Dave will use the shortest one as a reference and see if we can find one with the appropriate bracket.

We spent the rest of the afternoon finding a spot for the rev-limiter.  Again a better safe than sorry.  Not a race truck, but the driver has been known to have a lead foot.  ATK  states a 6k redline, but I will set it to 5200.  I wanted it to be accessible but not conspicuous.  It is an MSD circle track limiter.  I chose this for the ease of install and adjustment.  With the detachable pig tale i can run it through an unuesed hole in the fire wall  and hide it under the dash.
https://www.holley.com/products/ignition/rpm_and_timing_controls/rpm_controls/parts/8727CT

[mattevandavis]

Again progress has been made, but I have not been doing a good job of posting.  It is hard to document some of the changes that we have been working on, as it is many small things.

We have a new combi valve installed. and bleed the brakes.  We have a brake pressure gauge on the way to check the rear pressure just to make sure.  I installed the rev limiter above the accelerator pedal; made a bracket for the brake pressure switch; diagnosed ground issues causing the marker lights to blink with the turn signals and not work at all if the lights were on.  We also installed a new accelerator cable.  We tried several OE style option but could not find one short enough.  Lokar makes a great factory ish cable that can be cut to size.  We installed the evap canister and ran the vac lines for it.

We ran into an issue when I added the coolant to the radiator.  We had a relatively large leak after i finished off the 3rd gallon.  Turns out it was coming from the water pump.  It hit part of the timing cover preventing the pump from sealing.  Good news is it is a simple fix.  Installing the pump was my project, and I did not think to check clearances before installing.

I also decided to replace the dash instead of use a dash cover.  the one I had ordered several years ago was cracked, in a very inconspicuous spot, but I never really liked the idea of the dash cover.  It looks good but feels wrong.  The abs cover just is too rough and firm to feel 'factory'.  As it turns out I have a dash pad that is apparently not very common and not available as a reproduction.  My pad does not have vent holes or a center molding.  It was all dash foam. 


I have ordered a 74 OE dash molding from ebay to go with my replacement pad that has vent holes.  The faux wood has faided and it is in need of referb.  I have ordered several samples of 3m DiNoc wood finishes that I will take with me to Summit Racing to i can find a wood steering wheel to match.  Thinking about the camaro / corvette 3 spoke style.  It is that or order an OE reproduction.  Still debating this.



Ever so close to getting it fired up.  I'll be sure to post pics and video when we get there.

[Shifty]

Looking good! 

[mattevandavis]

So more progress!  The last month or 2 has been very busy at work, and we have added even more with the recent Covid19 events.  That said I have still found a day or 2 to sneek out and work on my truck. 

I installed the radio, and dash speaker.  Refinished the old crusty dash insert and emblem.  Refinished the shiftier knob, and finally got to start my truck!

My daughter has assisted the last 2 trips and my wife came out to see the truck fire off.

We ran into a few issues when we started it; the fuel line going to the carb was pouring fuel, and we had issues with the coolant funnel cap.  We replaced the chrome fuel line with a new one that sealed correctly, and ultimately removed funnel cap and just added fluid the old fashioned way.  Bit of splatter, but nothing a light rinse wont remedy. 

[mattevandavis]

Videos from previous post

Truck First Start
https://youtu.be/8Fb-OFNuw_k

Truck Running
https://youtu.be/ANPW9TXfJxQ

[mattevandavis]

Well it's been awhile again, but I got back at it this weekend.  Buttoned up a lot of small projects.  Installed the passenger vent window latch, radio knobs, ash tray, shifter knob, hood, air cleaner, vinyl letters, etc.

I ran into issues with the glove box.  The   box of course did not fit.  The plastic hinge is shorter than oem and the holes were too tall.  The factory box fits fine, but someone cut it to get the lock out.  I'm going to try and repair the OEM with some careful cutting and addition of a washer.

Berry little left.  I need to paint the wheels, install tires, get the new steering wheel, and an exhaust.  There are also missing fender emblems that have been "arriving soon" for 2 years, but I'm not holding my breath.

Anyone put a stainless works exhaust on their trucks.  It's a good grade of stainless and mandrel bent.  Only other potential option looks to be pypes.



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