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Apex 7 flat works well inserted into a reversible screw driver. The 3/8 is just big enough.Lightly hold one finger on the needle and another on the hinge pin, use the other hand to measure at the toe of the float.If you have an extra spring from the filter you can cut in half, place under the float while holding the hinge pin then measure.Holding upside down is another way letting the weight of the float do the work while holding the hinge pin.Don’t forget to put the metal ring back in under the seat and make sure only 1.
Hi Monkey Uncle:Setting the float height is easier with that paper scale that comes with the rebuild kit...the scale has a white background and the graduations are in black...the paper scale is also a T-square and sized so it can fit in the float chamber and register on the top of the float chamber edge to make the measurement easier and more accurate. I can send you a image of where the measurement is supposed to be on the float arm.Aneroid insert (stuffer): It appears to me the aneroid cavity has an open slot to the float bowl chamber so it would affect the volume of gas in the float bowl...my gut feel is that the insert should be there otherwise there will be excessive sloshing of gas and hence excessive movement of the float...maybe someone else on the forum can comment on this or maybe Stewart Griffin can open his M4ME carb up and see if there is a aneroid insert in it.Regards,Henry
I'll have to look at the ring again - I haven't actually pulled it out and handled it. It looks like black rubber, so I just assumed that's what it is. I'll have to double-check the threads also. The seat backed out normally and did not give me the impression that anything was stripped.
Retainer and seal on the top of the accelerator pump stem: These parts appear on an exploded diagram of a M4ME in the book by Doug Roe. My current pump does not have them, and when I look up the replacement pump for my carb model on quadrajetparts.com, it also does not have these parts. Also we know from some of the other parts we've discussed that the Roe's exploded diagram does not match my carb in some respects.
I'm interested in any recommendations you might have for a replacement carburetor.'78 GMC K15 chassis/drive train with an '85 C10 bodyRemanned crate 350 (stock) with less than 500 miles on it, mated to an old TH350 that came from a third (unknown) donor vehicleNo emissions control equipment other than pcv hose running from driver's side valve cover into front of carbOriginal stock air cleaner from the '78 truckCarb, intake, fuel pump, and all ignition equipment re-used from the old engineFuel pump and fuel lines appear newThe intake appears to be the original stock intake from the '78 truck, but the carb is not. The truck should have a 4MV quadrajet with divorced hot air choke, but it currently has a 1983 E4ME model with electric choke and several currently unused emissions features. I am having some idle and driveability problems that were not solved by a re-build (details here if you're interested: http://forum.73-87chevytrucks.com/smforum/index.php?topic=35689.0). It was better for a short while after the re-build, but now is even worse than before. While it might be possible for a quadrajet expert to get it running right, I don't have such an expert available to me, so I think it's time to quit fooling with it and just replace it with a carb that is better matched to an old 350 with no emissions equipment.From searching various auto parts websites, I see that there are remanned 4MV quadrajets available from National Reman, United, and Autoline for what appear to be reasonable prices with a 1 year warranty. It also appears that there are several Edelbrock Performer and Holley Street Avenger models that are supposed to bolt on to my manifold, although prices for these are a good bit higher than for the remanned Q-jets.Also my mechanic suggested that I consider a Carter aftermarket replacement with a manual choke. I wouldn't mind the manual choke, but my searches did not find anything manufactured by Carter. My understanding is that Carter is no longer in business, so any Carter carbs likely would be remanned, correct?Any thoughts about any of these potential replacements? Or any other suggestions?Thanks.Edit: I should explain how the truck is used. It's a short distance errand/light to medium duty hauling truck. Not exactly a DD since I don't use it to commute and probably drive it less than a thousand miles a year. Although I like the cool factor of driving an old truck that is in pretty decent shape, it is not intended to be a show truck or a performance truck. So I'm interested in a reasonably priced carb that will get me down the road with a minimum amount of fuss.