73-87chevytrucks.com
73-87 Chevy _ GMC Trucks => Body, Glass & Paint => Topic started by: Tommyd11730 on November 27, 2017, 05:06:07 PM
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I have always luster over the trim on the tailgates of higher line trucks. If I'm able to find one, can I install it on the tailgate of my 84 High Sierra? (Heck is my tailgate even from a 84?) Do I drill holes, add clips, or use some sort of molding tape?
Thanks!
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You will just need to drill 4, 5/16" or 3/8" holes in the tailgate, it's no big deal.
The GMC's emblems tend to break the pins off so when you do find one, make sure they are intact along with the plastic gasket that goes between the emblem and the mounding.
I have said this before, GMC stuff is getting tough to find and the people who do have it are very proud of it. Many of the ones you will find will have dents, damage and fading of the anodization. I have not found a good way to repair them.....yet
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Typical of the brushed aluminum on these truck: beautiful, but the clear coat hazes and turns chalky. What to do? Sand down the original clear coat. It is quite a bit tougher than I thought, but use 180 grit. Remove any scratches with the 180 grit at this point. Then even out the sanding grain with about 320 grit. If there are dents, you can separate the front and back halves carefully, carefully smooth out the dents from the back side, then once again, even out the grain with progressively finer grit to 320. Put the halves back together. The edges that are not brushed must also be stripped to bare metal. Sand down through progressively finer grits to 2000 grit. Use metal buffing and compound to remove the final scratches, and then recoat with a clear coating designed for bare metal. I used ProtectaClear from Everbrite on my recent trim reconditioning. It brought back a new look to junkyard trim.
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Typical of the brushed aluminum on these truck: beautiful, but the clear coat hazes and turns chalky. What to do? Sand down the original clear coat. It is quite a bit tougher than I thought, but use 180 grit. Remove any scratches with the 180 grit at this point. Then even out the sanding grain with about 320 grit. If there are dents, you can separate the front and back halves carefully, carefully smooth out the dents from the back side, then once again, even out the grain with progressively finer grit to 320. Put the halves back together. The edges that are not brushed must also be stripped to bare metal. Sand down through progressively finer grits to 2000 grit. Use metal buffing and compound to remove the final scratches, and then recoat with a clear coating designed for bare metal. I used ProtectaClear from Everbrite on my recent trim reconditioning. It brought back a new look to junkyard trim.
I think you suggested 'Everbright" in another similar thread and I did order it but didn't use it yet.
The "clear coat" is actually a clear anodization which is a electrolytic process that seals the outside layer of the metal to prevent corrosion. You can strip it off with oven cleaner which is much easier than trying to sand it.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Anodizing
I think this would be a neat side business if I ever got the repairing of them figured out.
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Seems like I did mention it before, now that I think of it ! I believe I spelled it correctly the second time; the first one wasn't correct. I tried oven cleaner and it does work. If you want to preserve the black paint on the inset, you will want to use sandpaper instead. It's a trade-off. Extra work stripping the clear, but save the paint, or vice-versa. But you have to admit the result is worth it whichever way you decide to go !