New steering box referral

[fiddler]

I found someone to weld in the Off Road Design frame repair kit on my 1974 Chevy C10 Stepside.  Someone along the line cross threaded one of the installation bolts on the steering box allowing the frame to flex around the hole until it cracked.  The welder has experience with C10 frame cracks and repair kits so here is hoping this goes well.  Since the steering box was cross threaded I tried re-tapping the holes, but there was not enough thread material left to hold the bolt at 80 ft pounds so the new threads gave up as well.  For a temporary fix I pushed a grade 8 bolt through the hole with some grade 8 washers and torqued to 100 ft pounds, which pulled the frame together and the truck actually handled quite well.  Now I have the repair kit and a welder guy lined up, and since the steering box is stripped I will replace it.  I am looking at Oreilly parts house and I see a Lares 2 1/2 turn post to post available for 810.00.  (I think I will need new anyway as the old box is stripped).  Has anybody had experience with these extremely high ratio steering boxes?  (Might this box not be a good idea for an already repaired frame?).  Any suggestions as to the best way to go?  Thanks in advance for your input....

[bd]

Helicoilling the flange is a LOT less expensive than a replacement box.

[fiddler]

I am kind of at the welders mercy on this.  He did say he would not mind replacing the box if I supply it.  I am pretty sure he is capable of installing a heli coil once the box is off of the truck so he can install the kit.  The box is a high ratio 3 1/2 turns stop to stop anyway so that is pretty fair handling.  I was looking at the improvement in steering using the 2 1/2 turn box.  If I can get this fixed for the price of a heli coil I am thinking maybe live with current steering which is not bad at all.  If I can't get him to install a helicoil perhaps upgrade to a 2 1/2 turn box.  But I am not sure about the frame and patch standing up to the extra force needed to turn the wheels to the right or left.....  I am concerned about the capability of this kit properly being able to stand up to the higher ratio gear box.  I have watched the frame move when I turned the wheel from under the hood.  That is how I found the cross threaded bolt.  Lots of force down there.....

[bd]

Frame flex and crack development from tin canning are an inherent problem with our trucks.  Read through these linked threads...

87 R10 Cracked Frame Repair @ Steering Gear

Re: 86 chevy 2wd frame cracks

Another frame cracking at steering gear question, 2wd

Re: 76 c10 project

cracked frame 79 k10

Need help Steering box Frame= not good.

Re: Frame cracks around upper shock mounts

Each of these threads has relevant data that apply to your situation.  The torque arms discussed in 87 R10 Cracked Frame Repair @ Steering Gear may be of particular interest if you fear a repeat failure.  As long as you are running tires that are less than 30" tall and periodically lubricate the linkage, properly hammer formed weld-on plates installed by an experienced welder should suffice.

On the other hand, if the box is oozing fluid a rebuilt box would be the way to go.  Some members on this forum highly recommend RedHead Steering Gears.  But, purchasing local could be a plus if a problem develops with the replacement gear.

[fiddler]

Wow Thanks for all the input!!

[ehjorten]

I have a Red Head Steering Gear on my '77 that I am very happy with, but I just drove down to their location and picked it up.  Another option if you are set on replacing the box, is PSC Motorsports.  I have one of their gears on my '91 Crew Cab with Cross-over steering and 35" tall tires.  I had a cracked frame around the box.  I drilled the ends of the cracks, ground out the cracks, and welded both sides.  I then installed the bolt-in steering box braces and did not do the weld-on plates.  I haven't had a problem.

[fiddler]

Thank you.  I will look at the redhead and psc motorsports options.

[ezstriper]

Can tell you this, if you run without a front bumper, roll pan etc or nothing causes the frame to flex much more and crack

[fiddler]

Thanks all.  Got the frame welded and a repair kit installed, then installed the ORD horizontal brace.  New steering box from buyautoparts.com.  Much cheaper.  The truck drives like new.  It has been a journey, but it is finally safe, comfortable and reliable.  In addition to the steering box and frame weld and brace, in the last 6 years since I bought the truck to make dump runs with I have...Reupholstered the seat, (due to mouse invasion), replaced the firewall insulation, (due to mouse invasion), replaced the heater core, (I was already in there due to mouse invasion), replaced the dash pad, replaced the speedometer, clock, and fuel gauge.  Replaced the shift indicator.  Replaced the dash panel that holds all of the gauges, replaced the hood hinges, replaced coil and leaf springs, replaced shocks, installed air shocks for heavy loads, replaced doughnut gaskets in exhaust pipes. Replaced the carburetor with a new Edelbrock 1406.  Replaced the differential cover with cast aluminum.  Replaced ball joints and tie rod ends.  Replaced the fuel pump and filter and fuel lines.  Replaced ignition coil and wires and plugs.  (Accel ignition).    Replaced air conditioner vents and ducts, replaced AC compressor and evaporator.  Replaced air conditioner/heater blower.  Replaced door window and wing window seals.  Converted all lighting to LED.  Replaced customized tail light lenses.  These were from a 1972 international scout.  They really looked old.  New ones much nicer.  Replaced power brake booster with dual diaphragm unit.  New calipers, rotors, wheel cylinders, and drums.  New master cylinder.  Replaced the differential seal around the drive shaft.  Replaced wheels with chrome, and new tires.  Replaced stepside steps.  Now replaced the vacuum advance unit and ignition control module.  Next I plan on a stainless steel bed rails setup and using white recycled plastiwood stuff for the bed.  The rotted boards are covered with a 3/4 inch cdx board and an 8 foot stall mat cut off to 6-1/2 feet.  I am about ready to spring for the rust repair around the doors and one fender, then a respray. The engine supposedly had 65000  on it when I bought it and I don't think I have driven it 10000 mile since then.  It runs strong and compression is still good.  I keep clean oil in it, and the transmission.  The truck had new carpets and sound proofing installed when I bought it so the cab is relatively quiet.  I still get a bit of whistle around the wing windows.  Oh and I replaced the interior side panels on the door. 

So when I started writing this I did not plan on the list of what I had done, it just kind of flowed out of me.  Nearly all of the components replaced were due to some non-working condition.  On this truck...everything works.  Thanks for viewing.

[JohnnyPopper]

Wow so much work!

I (we) know how good it feels to get another piece of the project done, congrats on your progress.

Just one thing: Pics Please?