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73-87 Chevy _ GMC Trucks => Electrical => Topic started by: mikerhoades50 on January 08, 2012, 12:41:21 AM
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I have an 83 k10, that started life out as a 6.2 diesel, but has been converted to a 350. This truck has had a plow on it and has a custom built dump box. So with these things in mind there have been many other wiring modifications done to the truck.
The problem that I am having is there is no power getting to the ignition switch. The truck was working fine, I rebuilt the transmission and reinstalled, and went to start it and the switch does nothing. I have checked the wires going into the back of the fusebox, and the top right (as you are sitting under the hood with the connector plugged in) wire has power, all the rest are dead. In the fusebox I have power to the bat receptacles, and all the fuses are good. I do not have power to either of the red wires that go to the ignition switch, and I am not able to trace the wires through the mess on the back of the fuse panel.
My question is are these two wires powered by the "top right" wire that I mentioned above or should there be another wire coming through the firewall that has power?
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Are you sure all the wires were hooked up on the starter?
Could be a fuse link? Neutral safety switch?
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I did check the wires on the starter and they look ok. I think that if it were the fuseable links then I would not have power going to the cab from the starter. As for the neutral switch, The power is not getting that far, I have nothing getting to the ignition switch. so there is no Acc power either, I should still have radio etc. if it was the neutral switch right?
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Yes, if you don't have power to radio/dashlights I would check fuse links.
Netural Safety should only interrupt power to the solenoid.
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since it worked before i would check for any wires that got trapped between the engine and transmission. dont know crap about the fuse box so im not going to say anything about that
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Irish has a good point, the only other comment I will add. When you checked the fuses, how did you check them, ohm them or ohm then and also check for power.
The only reason I ask this is I run into all the time with my work where you can check a fuse with ohms and it is good, try to put power through it and it does not work. A good indicator (though not always) is when you are checking ohms, if it never settles and kinda skips around between 2 different ohm readings.
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In checking the fuses I pulled and looked at them. I also put a test light on both sided in the fuse box, and everyone that had power on one side had power on the other.
As for pinched wires, this truck has a 3" body lift so It is easy to check and there is nothing that got stuck
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Check fuse links that attach to the starter, not fuses in the fuse box.
(http://www.repairconnector.com/product_images/p/081/5551px1__41319_zoom.jpg)
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Thanks for all the help! even though I checked the wires from the starter, a second set of eyes spotted the wire pinched between the bell housing and the engine -- dead short, now just to get it out and replace the fuseable linke that burned out.
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so in summary, YES there is supposed to be more than one hot wire going through the firewal!
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glad you got it
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glad you got it
x2
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glad you got it
:)
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Thanks for all the help! even though I checked the wires from the starter, a second set of eyes spotted the wire pinched between the bell housing and the engine -- dead short, now just to get it out and replace the fuseable linke that burned out.
I had that same problem after i replaced my transmission before. glad you fixed it.