Author Topic: Gauges not working  (Read 1746 times)

Offline Bboydsr191

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Gauges not working
« on: January 16, 2019, 08:27:19 AM »
I posted this a few days ago and I’ve done a few things since. Asking for anyone else’s thoughts, one guy helped me last time but it didn’t turn out to be the ground block or battery cables.

1980 C10. Original diesel but has been swapped with an Oldsmobile cutlass 307.

Getting no reading on battery voltage (sits at 9:00) fuel level stays the same 1/4 of a tank, on each gas tank. Temperature and oil pressure don’t work either. Only the dashlights and speedometer work.

After I brought it home and shut it off, I went to crank it again (I had had work done to it to replace the distributor, the old one someone had JB welded into place so we couldn’t set the timing. It was too advanced so it caused hard starting, they also welded my intake manifold as I had a crack in it) and I just got a clicking noise, no heat or lights coming on. followed by nothing on the next attempt at starting.
I got out, checked under the hood that the battery was connected. Slammed the hood. Got back in and I had power.

I replaced my battery cable clamps and cleaned the cables, the terminals, and the block ground. (The connector clamps were pretty bad and needed the replacement anyway) I’m cranking and turning over and running fine. Everything else seems to be working.

 All of the gauges had previously been working  (Except the clock) before I took it there. They didn’t pull the cluster or mess around on the inside or near the fuel tanks.

A family member had his college class do the work for me so I know it was nothing intentionally done. My theory is they unhooked something while removing the intake or the distributor and forgot to hook it back up. I’m just running out of things to check, is there another ground point or anything anyone suggests? Or a wire color or location to check out? Or can anyone tell me where to check? I know they didn’t mess around the cluster so nothings damaged or unhooked there, where should I check in the engine bay? Thanks in advance.
Anything is appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Offline Rapid Roy

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Re: Gauges not working
« Reply #1 on: January 16, 2019, 09:06:00 AM »
Welcome
1974 Cheyenne 10 LWB STOCK 350 W HEI /TH350/AC/4 BBL Quadrajet
Mopar by Birth
Chevy by Choice

Offline bd

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Re: Gauges not working
« Reply #2 on: January 16, 2019, 07:48:40 PM »
Replace the GAUGES fuse.
Rich
It's difficult to know just how much you don't know until you know it.
In other words... if people learn by making mistakes, by now I should know just about everything!!!
87 R10 Silverado Fleetside 355 MPFI 700R4 3.42 Locker (aka Rusty, aka Mater)

Offline 75gmck25

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Re: Gauges not working
« Reply #3 on: January 16, 2019, 09:04:51 PM »
Another suggestion:  There is a fusible link in the wire that runs straight down from the power junction on the firewall next to the brake booster.  If someone hooked up the battery backwards  or caused a short to ground somewhere, this link often burns through and takes out power to the cab.  The link is a 14 gauge fusible link in a 10 gauge wire.  Most parts stores will sell a "GM fusible link," which will be a 14 gauge fusible link that can be spliced in to replace the one that is blown.

I hooked up a new battery backwards once myself because both the positive and negative cables were black, but I very quickly noticed the fusible link smoking and pulled off the battery cable.  However, several months later I was driving on the highway and turned on the headlight switch, and the fusible link finally burned through and cut off all the power.  Maybe you have a similar problem with a flaky connection in a wire feeding the fuse box.

Bruce