bad vibration

[blazer74]

Stay with the stock configuration with the heat tube is your best bet for function and look.
Never liked or bought into the K&N hype.
I run a GM dual snorkel air cleaner off a corvette on my 74K5.
I don't have the carb heat tubes hooked up tho due to headers. Never had a problem with carb icing even in with the temp  in the teens so never bothered.
I do have the stock cleaner if I want the stock look. My year didn't have the clean/cold air intake tube.
75 was the first year for that.

[philo_beddoe]

A washable k&n type filter between to chrome pie plates would do more harm than good on his vehicle specifically and it would not appear factory either like he wants. I did the pie plates with washable filter and then I put the stock housing back on and put a Delco paper filter in it and the air quality going to the engine is much better. Washable filters don't filter as good as the paper units do. This is entirely a topic for a separate post but the type of air induction is not suited for what he wants or requires. And remember, the pie plates help with sound but not mpg's. The factory unit draws cooler air from the front, cooler air helps with better mpg's and power and efficiency. Drawing air from all around the engine where it's over 200° is actually counter productive. I had issues with cold drive ability and choke operation, all caused by pie plate air intakes. GM didn't spend millions on R & D to be outsmarted by an over priced 30 dollar washable air filter and 2 pie plates from grandma's kitchen. Philo, your current setup is proper, functional and reliable. Enjoy your truck.

Love the last sentence, thanks!!

[LTZ C20]

Your welcome.

[Captain Swampy]

   Very nice! I suggest an extra set of rims and tires from the junk yard for the rear axle. When you get the urge to play, leave your good tires at home   I hope you get the last kinks worked out quickly. Enjoy that fine ride for many years to come!

If it was mine I couldn't resist the urge to put a set of stainless shorty headers on it. I'm glad there are guys like you that keep them original.

[philo_beddoe]

Thanks, i really love a factory stock look. If i had the coin, i would do a full professional frame off and have it look like the day it rolled off the assembly line. A pure stock look is hard to do.

[philo_beddoe]

Well, here it is:

I started this post on oct. 17, 2015. Over 450 replies later and thousands of views, i am finally at rest with the "bad vibration"

About a couple months ago Vile performed a killer tune-up on my 305 and at the same time diagnosed the main problem. Not counting the vibration, that 305 was so well tuned, it was a shame we had to ditch it for a brand new crate gm goodwrench 350. About a month ago he installed the new motor, and during the break-in period it got a little boggy, some popping from the carb and starting was a little rough. No problem, Vile had me over his shop today and did some timing and carb adjustments. After a couple test runs i couldnt be happier with the results. It's real fast, real smooth, tight, idles like a sewing machine and starts at the touch of the key...No popping,,no bogging.

I guess this thread can finally go down as RESOLVED!

Additionally, Vile has inspired me to get intimate with my truck, tinkering and tweaking, fixing and tuning. I am encouraged to learn the theory of how all the working mechanisms operate, and how to diagnose and make my own repairs correctly. A little red neck patching now and then is ok too i guess. We all do it.

Thanks for all the input from everyone. Sure glad i found this site.

- philo beddoe

Ps. Now i can finally drive it like i stole it!!

[zieg85]

See I told you... Vile is da man!!!

[Greybeard]

Glad to hear it! Ya know, I've been tinkering with trucks, semi's, class B's, off road, motorcycles, lawn mower engines, etc. for over forty years. I still can't diagnose one correctly.  Once it's diagnosed correctly I can fix it however. Not really sure why I cannot do an accurate diagnosis on an internal combustion engine. I can normally narrow it down, just not be precise like Vile was. Makes me wonder if I dumped my old BB because it had a bad thrust bearing? ....Nah, not really, I knew it had a bad bearing just not which one, and I really didn't want the expense of building a hot rod BB; small blocks, although expensive themselves, are much less so than a BB.

BTY- it really does not take many tools to tear too far into an old Chevy. When I was young and four wheeling when ever I could find a dirt road, I carried a small tackle box of tools. A 12" adjustable wrench, some good screwdrivers, a small 1/2" drive socket set (just the sockets necessary that fit (everything from about 3/8"-3/4" with a 1/2" to 3/8" adapter, ratchet, breaker bar, and extensions), some hex keys (Allen keys/wrenches), some electric tape, some teflon tape, some plumbers putty, of course some good sticky duct tape, two sets of combination wrenches, a set of 12AWG jumper wires 15' long, a test light, and a partial roll of mechanics wire (annealed 16 gauge wire). With this I was able to fix nearly anything that broke on my truck. Two of everything worked the best. Then I contrast that little tool box with my younger brothers toolbox in his garage. A Mac box total of six feet high and about eight feet long with at least $40,000 worth of Snap-on and Mac tools in it. And he isn't even a professional mechanic! Just a shade tree mechanic like me. I guess he with the most toys wins.

[philo_beddoe]

Ya i have seen some pretty smart mechanics get puzzled over stuff before. The process of elimination helps,,,along with a nice shop and good tools. Much of these repairs do take time. You cant change out a carburetor or intake or cam shaft or head gasket or rear main in a couple hours and expect it to perfectly run without any problems at all. Vile mentioned every application is a little different as is the tuning and settings. And were talkin about chevy's from the 70's. How about working on a ferrari or jaguar or a 2016 chevy, or an 8 second funny car? Forget it! I guess if working on and diagnosing these things is your career and you do it every day, thats a little different.

Anywho...this "bad vibration" is history.

[philo_beddoe]

Update....did my first routine oil change. First 500 miles on new crate 350. 4 qts 1030 syn-blend, and one bottle of zddp, mixed with the oil first of course. Runs even better and smoother. The break-in oil came out relatively clean, just a little darker.

[LTZ C20]

Well yea, it only had 500 miles on it lol