Author Topic: Junction block  (Read 3728 times)

Offline Jb77c10

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Junction block
« on: July 24, 2017, 05:57:35 PM »
So I rewired my 77 c10 and neglected to record which wires ran to the junction block under the hood on the firewall. The harness which I installed had no instructions on using this block but I do believe the blower motor and a/C are power through this block, can i supply it with power directly from my battery? Any input would be greatly appreciated

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Offline bd

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Re: Junction block
« Reply #1 on: July 24, 2017, 07:14:34 PM »
One stud of the firewall junction block connects to the starter solenoid 3/8" battery cable stud (B+) through a 10-gauge red wire and 14-gauge fusible link located at the solenoid end of that wire.  The remaining stud of the junction block connects to a 6" long, 16-gauge fusible link spliced onto the end of a single 12-gauge red wire that then splits into three 12-gauge red wires within the taped harness that separately run to the alternator output post, the #2 terminal of the alternator regulator, and the firewall bulkhead connector.  Both studs of the firewall junction block are jumpered together via a short strap that is integral with one of the connecting wires.

The A/C blower relay has a 10-gauge red wire that connects to the same junction block terminal shared by the 10-gauge red wire running down to the starter solenoid 3/8" battery cable stud.  This B+ connection is used for high blower speed, only.
Rich
It's difficult to know just how much you don't know until you know it.
In other words... if people learn by making mistakes, by now I should know just about everything!!!
87 R10 Silverado Fleetside 355 MPFI 700R4 3.42 Locker (aka Rusty, aka Mater)

Offline Jb77c10

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Re: Junction block
« Reply #2 on: July 24, 2017, 09:11:37 PM »
I rewired the truck with an American autowire kit which had no designation of wires running to the junction block. It basically I believe had purple for nss, red for power to fuse block and I believe one wire to alternator, I will have to check when I'm home. Essentially a wire from the starter + is a constant hot wire is that correct? Theoretically could I power my junction box with a hot wire from my battery as long as it has a visible link?

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Offline bd

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Re: Junction block
« Reply #3 on: July 24, 2017, 10:03:57 PM »
I rewired the truck with an American autowire kit which had no designation of wires running to the junction block. It basically I believe had purple for nss, red for power to fuse block and I believe one wire to alternator, I will have to check when I'm home. Essentially a wire from the starter + is a constant hot wire is that correct? Theoretically could I power my junction box with a hot wire from my battery as long as it has a visible link?

I have no personal experience with the AAW harness.  AAW may have simplified and streamlined the factory wiring configuration.  Any wire connected directly to the starter battery cable stud is B+.  So, you could substitute a direct connection between the battery positive terminal and the firewall junction block through a suitably gauged and protected wire if you prefer.
Rich
It's difficult to know just how much you don't know until you know it.
In other words... if people learn by making mistakes, by now I should know just about everything!!!
87 R10 Silverado Fleetside 355 MPFI 700R4 3.42 Locker (aka Rusty, aka Mater)

Offline Jb77c10

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Re: Junction block
« Reply #4 on: July 24, 2017, 10:19:30 PM »
Thanks bd, I'm pretty new to this, I had thought about splicing into the main power wire to the fuse block but didn't want to compromise it, idk.

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Offline Captain Swampy

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Re: Junction block
« Reply #5 on: July 25, 2017, 09:24:50 PM »
Check their website or call them to clarify where to connect it. You could fry your brand new wiring.
1987  350TBI 700R4  4X4  4.56 gears  33" BFG All Terrain


http://forum.73-87chevytrucks.com/smforum/index.php?topic=32209.0