Author Topic: 80 C10 SWB "The Ruby Build" (Read 20648 times)

Thompson335 · « **Reply #45 on:** April 06, 2020, 06:32:26 AM »

added exhaust and finally got it back on the ground.

Shifty · « **Reply #46 on:** April 06, 2020, 09:57:04 AM »

Thompson335 · « **Reply #47 on:** April 21, 2020, 06:42:54 AM »

making more head way. installed parking brake cables from a S10 blazer, and made some mounts for the cables from a 2000 Camaro that I welded to the axle.

Thompson335 · « **Reply #48 on:** April 21, 2020, 01:16:26 PM »

installed cab, new urethane bushings , doors with new hinge pins, front clip, and adjusted fenders.
Man the work on the frame really stiffened it up. I am really looking forward to getting this thing back on the road to see how all this work turned out.

Thompson335 · « **Reply #49 on:** April 28, 2020, 05:10:47 AM »

so we are all back together, took her for a slow ride around the neighborhood. brakes and everything did well. only issue was when I got on the street and got up past about 35 MPH she shook pretty bad. I am pretty sure it is drive line angles doing it. I have a 4 degree shim on order that I believe will fix it.

Mike81K10 · « **Reply #50 on:** April 28, 2020, 08:58:24 PM »

That is a nice stance, looks very good.

Shifty · « **Reply #51 on:** April 29, 2020, 10:16:36 AM »

Very nice!

Thompson335 · « **Reply #52 on:** April 29, 2020, 10:38:59 AM »

Thanks guys, really appreciate it. Can't wait to get my shims
and get it out on the road.

Yah00000 · « **Reply #53 on:** June 28, 2020, 06:28:21 PM »

Where did you buy Hydro boost from?

Thompson335 · « **Reply #54 on:** June 28, 2020, 06:33:52 PM »

Picked it up at the junkyard from a SUV

Thompson335 · « **Reply #55 on:** July 13, 2020, 12:02:23 PM »

Now that I have the truck bar rear end sorted out and working well I need to address the front suspension. Currently I have the lower ball joint moved forward about an inch to give me about 5degress of castor and all the bushings replaced. The steering box is slap worn out both the input and output shafts have excess motion in them. A 12.7 to 1 replacement box is in the $350 range.

I have access to a crown vic front end from a cop car for almost nothing. What do you guys thing about installing it into a square body?
Unless I am missing something it looks to be pretty simple swap. Will need to do a little fab work on the frame to widen it a couple inched on each side.
Benefits would be
4 -5 inch drop
Increased castor
Increased suspension travel over a lower front with drop spindles and springs
Shock thru coil spring
Be able to place the wheels in the center of the wheel well
Rack and pinion Steering

The negatives I see would be:
Track width, but I currently run 1.75in spacers with Camaro wheels and Like the look of modern wheels. If I drill the hubs to a Chevy pattern I could run just about any Ford or Chevy factory pull off wheel at that point.
Connecting the rack to the steering wheel

The other thing I am not real sure about is Roll center on the crown vic, but I am thinking I can control that with spring rate and sway bars if it does not do as well as I would like.

Considering my 20x8 Camaro Wheels (28.8 inches tall with 1.75 spacers) clear the fender wells with ease, wheels should not be a problem.

I wonder what the turn radius would be like compared to a stk C10

The cost would be very low compared to buying a new steering box. Just my time and effort, got a lot more of that then extra cash laying around.

Thompson335 · « **Reply #56 on:** July 14, 2020, 05:17:18 AM »

no one has an opinion on the crown vic front end swap into a square body?

VileZambonie · « **Reply #57 on:** July 14, 2020, 11:01:05 AM »

The crown vic control arms have a ton of deflection and movement in the bushings. I hate them in CV's and Grand Marquis so I would never put one in my truck. I'm curious why you want excessive caster? You can achieve good caster by adjusting the upper control arms.

Thompson335 · « **Reply #58 on:** July 14, 2020, 12:14:19 PM »

Factory C10 has 1-2 degrees of castor at best. Castor helps the vehicle track straight at speed. Much better for highway driving.That is why modern cars have 6 and 7 degrees. If you use the upper control arm to increase castor it moves the wheel way back in the wheel well. Looks kind of weird. The cost of tubular Arms is just stupid high for C10s

Sent from my Moto Z (2) using Tapatalk

Thompson335 · « **Reply #59 on:** July 14, 2020, 12:40:31 PM »

When you talk about deflection do you mean the bushings or the cast arms them self?

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Author Topic: 80 C10 SWB "The Ruby Build" (Read 20648 times)

Thompson335

Re: 80 C10 SWB "The Ruby Build"

Shifty

Re: 80 C10 SWB "The Ruby Build"

Thompson335

Re: 80 C10 SWB "The Ruby Build"

Thompson335

Re: 80 C10 SWB "The Ruby Build"

Thompson335

Re: 80 C10 SWB "The Ruby Build"

Mike81K10

Re: 80 C10 SWB "The Ruby Build"

Shifty

Re: 80 C10 SWB "The Ruby Build"

Thompson335

Re: 80 C10 SWB "The Ruby Build"

Yah00000

Re: 80 C10 SWB "The Ruby Build"

Thompson335

Re: 80 C10 SWB "The Ruby Build"

Thompson335

Re: 80 C10 SWB "The Ruby Build"

Thompson335

Re: 80 C10 SWB "The Ruby Build"

VileZambonie

Re: 80 C10 SWB "The Ruby Build"

Thompson335

Re: 80 C10 SWB "The Ruby Build"

Thompson335

Re: 80 C10 SWB "The Ruby Build"