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73-87 Chevy _ GMC Trucks => Brakes, Frame, Steering & Suspension => Topic started by: 4inthefloor on May 07, 2018, 01:15:44 PM
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Found 2 cracks in my frame at the steering box on a project truck of mine. Not planning to lift it or put big tires on. Could I get away with just welding the cracks up? I have another frame which has that section good could I cut that out and trim it to lay over top of the area? Or should I buy the kit. Opinions from anyone that has completed this repair in a similar fashion is appreciated.
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I have a 1-ton Crew Cab with 8" of lift and crossover steering. I drilled holes at the ends of the cracks, v-ground the cracks to get good weld penetration, welded them up, then ground the welds smooth and painted. I then installed the steering box brace that bolts to the front crossmember. I have not had any issues.
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Frame cracks behind the steering gearbox are common. Frame cracking is exacerbated by larger tires but eventually occur, regardless. At the very least, the ends of cracks need to be drilled, the cracks V'ed and welded from both sides for 100% penetration. The issue with welding alone is the alteration of frame temper adjacent to the welds, creating additional stress risers. With no other variables added, if the frame cracked once, it will likely crack again. IMHO, the best approach is to augment gearbox support after existing cracks have been 100% resolved. Either install a torque arm kit as ehjorten did, a weld-in plate, or both. Because of the frame contours and reflief, sectioning in a glove from another similar vehicle will prove difficult and problematic.
You can find links to various frame crack discussions on this forum in the thread 87 chevy cracked frame from steering box fix (http://forum.73-87chevytrucks.com/smforum/index.php?topic=34345.msg292422#msg292422).
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Welcome
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Thank you all for the responses and welcome. I did read through the forums and had seen some people mention using another frames steering box section trimmed out to overlay on to another frame similar to the ORD kit. But just didn't see any real information or write ups of it being done.
I've already got a section cut out I'm going to trim it up just to see how it fits. If I'm not satisfied with it. I will likely just order the kit and brace from ORD. Was just trying to save some money.
My friend is trying to get me to swap everything over to my long bed frame. But I'd rather just fix this frame since it's a short. The cracks I have luckily are just hair lined and didn't distort the mounting holes.
I will respond later with what I learn
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I can't remember, but I think I also used an oxy acetylene torch after I welded to heat up the weld area and areas around the weld to anneal it. I tried to do everything I knew to make it successful. I did have the ORD frame plate kit, but it fit so horribly and I didn't have a great way to beat it to death to try and make it match the frame contours.
I run 35" tires with my crossover steering, so they aren't huge, but definitely bigger than stock.
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I can't remember, but I think I also used an oxy acetylene torch after I welded to heat up the weld area and areas around the weld to anneal it. I tried to do everything I knew to make it successful. I did have the ORD frame plate kit, but it fit so horribly and I didn't have a great way to beat it to death to try and make it match the frame contours.
I run 35" tires with my crossover steering, so they aren't huge, but definitely bigger than stock.
I've heard a few different reports of the same that the kit didn't fit too well. I was working on my section but used up all of my cut off wheel. Will be Thursday before I have time to finish it up and try to grind the other frame section to see if I can make it fit.
If for some reason I don't have success. I will likely swap everything to my long bed frame with 1 ton axles. Hopefully I'm able to make it work with what I've got. If I decide to go with the other frame I will likely still order the ORD kit and put it on it before I swap everything over.
It was really a bummer finding the cracks. I had just finished with putting an engine in and got it running and driving. Oh well that's the way the cookie crumbles. I should have paid more attention, lesson learned.
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I will add to check your local laws, here any frame cracks must be welded then fishplated (a steel plate over welded area to reduce stress) this area is behind the steering box and harder to see, but I wouldn't skimp if it's already cracked, I would add the brace and the reinforcement plate.
Sent from my SM-S920L using Tapatalk
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A couple of vendors are making fish plates for that area of the frame
Definitely drill holes in the ends of the cracks
Grind a V on both sides of the cracks and have a competent experienced welder do the work
Use a fish plate and the brace and you will be fine
While you’re checking
Take a look at the frame where the passenger side rear shock bolts to the frame
Bet you got a tiny crack there too
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Thanks again all for the replies, I tried grinding down another piece of frame rail and it would not mount up flush to cap over it, although I was already advised this from earlier in the thread. I wanted to try it anyway. I ended up just grinding and welding up the cracks and running a plate across the bottom frame rail, and adding support to the inner side.
I put the truck back together, drove it and took it off road, seems to be good for now. But I've decided on doing the frame swap, which will happen later this summer. I just wanted it together enough to be able to move it around for the time being.
I'm planning to buy the both the plate and brace for the power steering area, and shock braces for the new frame. Just tired of messing it. Gonna go from the ground up with the whole shooting match and be done with it.