S.O.S.!!! Can anyone help with my electrical dilemma?

[85Stroker]

I meant to say they were pulling the threads out not stripping them but it was causing me to not be able to snug the bolts up so I put the longer bolts in with nuts so I could use the nut to snug it down, but my bolts may be too long.

[bd]

Post pics of the cable attachments to the battery.

[JohnnyPopper]

I'm on the edge of my seat!!!

[85Stroker]

Sorry I didn't get done in the field as early as I'd hoped to, I will post the pics tomorrow morning.

[85Stroker]

Well things are not exactly going as I hoped, we were due to get some rain, which we got today, so we started combining corn and i haven't had much time at all to work on my truck.

I did find some better "correct" side post bolts to replace the improvised bolts I was using, unfortunately it made no difference, I still have my original problem.

I thought I would give some background of how this all started in hopes it might help in some way. Someone had stolen my battery, alternator, plug wires, distributor cap, and some other parts, while my truck was at a body shop getting a little body work done. Whom ever did this also messed up some of the engine wiring in the process of stealing my parts. I replaced all the stolen items and tried to repair the wiring the best I could, being severally color blind, one of the wires I had to repair was the fuseable link going to the firewall junction block. I purchased some new fuseable link wires (14 and 16 gauge) to replace the damaged ones. Once I got the truck running and driving I was having a problem of having to jump start it, I did some testing and found my alternator was not charging the battery, when I put the meter on the battery and stepped on the throttle the reading would not change at all, so I began to try and find out why. What I found was the single post wire from the alternator, which according to the schematics in my service manual should go one of the fuseable links connected on the driver's side post of the firewall junction block was not connected. I put a fuseable link wire on it and connected it and it appeared to fix the problem. I drove my truck a couple times after that and this is when my present problem began to rear it's ugly head! After driving it the last time, the following day it would not start, the starter solenoid would just click. I had been wanting to replace the old starter anyway so I got my gear reduction starter from Summit Racing and installed it with the 2 gauge battery cables, and it still would not start without a jump, and this is my ongoing problem.

Bd, I haven't been able to do the test yet, that you mentioned, testing the battery static baseline then testing while cranking, as it appears someone borrowed my remote starter and didn't put it back so I have to go buy another one. That test will be my next step, but with the previous information I just posted of the "background history" is there anything else that maybe comes to mind? This is driving me NUTS but I'm determined to do whatever it takes to fix this, so as long as anyone is willing to give advice and procedures, I'm going to keep listening and doing whatever is suggested, no matter what it entails! Thanks again to bd, Mike S. , and everyone, for the help and input!
Best wishes to all,
85Stroker

P.S. one additional note, I have started going back over tests I have previously done, in hopes of maybe finding something I might have missed. I rechecked all my fuses and tested for voltage drops at the fuses, and found nothing, however, when I retested the voltage going from the alternator to the battery, (after jump starting the truck) under acceleration the reading was a steady 14.7 volts, it didn't drop or rise as it should, when accelerating or decelerating,  so I'm wondering why!??! In addition it is not running right, it's running a little rough, and won't idle correctly, it acts like it wants to stall out, and when accelerating it almost seems to act as if the plugs were not getting a hot enough spark. I'm going to pull the plugs and check them, just to see if they show anything. I'm trying to give as much information, whether it's useful or not, to try and get to the bottom of this. It's bad enough that this all started because some thief couldn't go out and earn the money to buy their own parts, like the rest of us, and instead just stole mine and messed up my wiring in the process, it's really maddening!

[bd]

The alternator generating constant 14.7 volts regardless of engine RPM means the regulator and alternator are doing their job; anywhere within the range of 14.2v - 14.7v is ideal.  The voltage tests are a necessary evil unless you discover the cause of your woes in the meantime.  Any connection or component that significantly drops voltage, other than the starter itself, has the potential to hinder engine cranking.  Correctly performed voltage drop tests should help identify the source, but you must be methodical and systematic and make no assumptions. 

I didn't review this thread from the beginning to see if we already covered this ground, but you can check for parasitic draws using a simple incandescent test light.  Make sure e/g is shut OFF and the cab doors are closed.  Disconnect the underhood light if one exists.  Insert the test light inline between the battery B+ post and the positive battery cable.  If the test light illuminates normally bright, there is sufficient current draw to pursue a diagnosis.  Otherwise, any parasitic draw is negligible and can be ignored.

You stated that someone pilfered parts and "messed" with the wiring.  Is there any chance that they also rotated the distributor or that the distributor is slightly loose?  Over-advanced ignition timing can cause severe labored cranking issues.  Use a jumper battery if necessary to start the engine and verify the timing with a proper timing light.

It sounds like you have the alternator properly connected.  Don't dive down the rabbit hole prompted by second guesses.

[85Stroker]

Hi bd, I just have a couple minutes while I empty the combine hopper, we have a chance for rain possibly in just a couple days so we are combining from very early to very late thus I'm not going to be able to work on my truck until we either get done or the rain hits. I plan on following thru with all of your suggestions and advice, and posting the results, please be patient with me, I really want to get my truck running but the farm has to take priority. Thanks again for all the help and information, hope everything is good with you.
85Stroker

[JohnnyPopper]

Thanks for keeping the wheels turning, gotta 'make hay while the sun shines'.

A fellow (what would we call ourselves? Capn Chaos Kids?) came upon the same year La Mons, clean as a whistle.