Author Topic: Adding a second battery  (Read 10731 times)

Offline winky

  • Junior Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 509
Adding a second battery
« on: February 12, 2014, 09:01:02 PM »
anyone here feel like doing a write up or helping someone do a write up? i plan on having dual batteries since i am going to have 2 winches and also for camping and such. ive been researching some but still dont understand everything completely.

Online bd

  • Global Moderator
  • Senior Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 6438
Re: Adding a second battery
« Reply #1 on: February 13, 2014, 10:59:36 AM »
anyone here feel like doing a write up or helping someone do a write up? i plan on having dual batteries since i am going to have 2 winches and also for camping and such. ive been researching some but still dont understand everything completely.

What do you want to know?  Begin by clearly defining your goals and exactly what you wish to accomplish.  What appliances are you wanting to power, and under what circumstances do you want to power them?

Initially, you should consider a diode isolated, deep-cycle auxiliary battery to power your supplemental camp lighting, appliances, high power sound system and winches.  With that many accessories, plan on upgrading to a 140+ amp alternator, as well.  Match the cable size to the anticipated draw.  Provide more details for specifics.
Rich
It's difficult to know just how much you don't know until you know it.
In other words... if people learn by making mistakes, by now I should know just about everything!!!
87 R10 Silverado Fleetside 355 MPFI 700R4 3.42 Locker (aka Rusty, aka Mater)

Offline winky

  • Junior Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 509
Re: Adding a second battery
« Reply #2 on: February 13, 2014, 07:03:59 PM »
plan on having two winches (hopefully not using them at the same time) going to have led rock lights under my truck and probably around 6 led light bars. planning on lighting up the world when we go camping etc.. cb radio, subs with a 1000w amp and maybe one or two other things im forgetting.
I did a little bit of researching on another big 4x4 forum and they didn't recommend using a deep cell battery because the risk of it exploding etc... ive seen battery kits were you have a switch to chose what battery to use and all but im learning challenged unless its something hands on and so far ive just done reading. i have also seen many people say you need the same batteries (cca etc) or they will kill each other

Online bd

  • Global Moderator
  • Senior Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 6438
Re: Adding a second battery
« Reply #3 on: February 13, 2014, 11:28:00 PM »
Here are a few thoughts...
  • Myth - Deep-cycle lead-acid batteries have a propensity to explode:
    A deep-cycle lead-acid battery is no more likely to explode than the vehicle primary cranking battery.  Lead-acid batteries explode when hydrogen and oxygen gases inside the battery are ignited by a spark.  If a lead-acid battery is poorly constructed or subjected to a severe service environment that includes persistent vibration, shaking, impact, freezing or thermal shock from instantaneous severe-current surges due to poorly planned installation, the possibility of internal damage and arcing is significantly increased.

  • Myth - The CCA of all batteries in a multi-battery system must be the same:
    Matching the CCA between mated batteries is important only if they are not isolated from one another.  Non-isolated, parallel connected batteries need to have the same voltage and current delivery characteristics to avoid differential discharge - a higher capacity battery discharging into a lower capacity battery "in an effort to charge the weaker battery."  This is most pronounced when the system charging period was insufficient to fully recover both batteries.  Do you follow?
A deep-cycle battery will provide up to ~8 times the life of a conventional cranking battery when used in deep-cycle applications.  Each time a battery is discharged and then charged, it recovers to slightly lower capacity than before the prior discharge.  Although the EMF (electromotive force) of the battery (voltage with no load) remains stable for quite some time, the gradual and cumulative loss in capacity eventually manifests as lower voltage.  Deep-cycle batteries are able to recover a greater percentage of their original charge each discharge-charge cycle.

Your plan can be broken down into distinct steps to make it more manageable.  For example: Determine where you are going to physically mount all of your lights.  Determine the configuration and power draw of each light at each location.  Sum the power consumption (watt rating) of all the planned auxiliary lamps for their total power consumption.  Add the lamp power consumption to that of one winch, since you're not likely to use both winches at once.  Similarly, you're not likely to run your sound system at a power level greater than ~200 watts if you want to retain your hearing.  Ignore the CB radio, unless you're running a linear.  If you have a power inverter, add that in.

Total the power consumption of all the accessories that are likely to function at any given time.  Divide the power in watts by 12 volts and you will have the projected current demand placed on your electrical system by accessory load.  Now, add 20 amps for the w/wipers, 20 amps for the heater blower, 15 amps for headlamps/running lamps, 7-10 amps for ignition, ~30 amps for electric radiator fans....  Include any appliance that uses significant power.  Get the idea?  This will help you guesstimate the minimum size of alternator you will need to balance the electrical load during high usage when the engine is running.  Shooting from the cuff, I estimate a 200-amp alternator for your intended build with the listed accessories, allowing for a reasonable, 15% margin.  If you really get carried away, that estimate could go up.  Of course, with proper planning it's unlikely your alternator will output at 85% very often.

Because most of the electrical demand will be "fun" accessories, I would use a deep-cycle lead-acid battery that is diode isolated.  But, a diode isolator consumes ~0.6 volt to forward bias and "turn on" (flow current).  So, the #2 regulator lead from your SI-type alternator needs to be routed around the isolator to connect directly to the primary cranking battery.  Some diode isolators have a dedicated extra terminal for this exact purpose.  Again, because most of your electrical load will be dispensable accessories, meaning that the auxiliary battery might be totally discharged during use, I would specifically avoid a manual override to bypass the isolator for cranking.  This minimizes the potential for both batteries being damaged, because the auxiliary battery is totally discharged resulting in a severe-current surge from the charged primary battery.  If it were a work truck without the plethora of toys, a manual override would be a nice modification.

As you mentioned, there are other approaches.  Each has its merits, advantages and disadvantages.  For your application as you describe it, I think the diode isolator is most suitable.

Edit: semantics.
« Last Edit: February 14, 2014, 10:12:33 AM by bd »
Rich
It's difficult to know just how much you don't know until you know it.
In other words... if people learn by making mistakes, by now I should know just about everything!!!
87 R10 Silverado Fleetside 355 MPFI 700R4 3.42 Locker (aka Rusty, aka Mater)

Offline winky

  • Junior Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 509
Re: Adding a second battery
« Reply #4 on: February 15, 2014, 08:52:34 AM »
AWESOME.  You have no idea how much i appreciate you taking the time to help me out with this. ill try to get everything planned out today. and check back in with what i have.

ok lets see if i do this right,                           |   WIper  - 20amp
                                                                      |
Led Spot lights 20w ea x4 lights = 80w         |  Heater  -  20amps
                                                                       |
Led Light bar = 100w                                     | Headlights  - 15 amps
                                                                       |
Rock Lights 1w ea x 8 lights = 8w                  | Ignition  - 10 amps
                                                                       |
Sound system = 200w                                    |  ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~                         
                                                                       |  65 amps
Winch ? 370 amps at 10k lbs pull.                  |
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
388 watts minus the winch

388/12 = 32.33 (without winch)  accessory load

So around 100amp draw not including the winch.

« Last Edit: February 15, 2014, 10:11:03 AM by winky »

Offline VileZambonie

  • Global Moderator
  • Senior Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 18980
Re: Adding a second battery
« Reply #5 on: February 15, 2014, 10:10:20 AM »
The battery is 12.6 Volts and VxA=watts

I had a coworker who used to take his truck camping and wanted a dual battery setup with a deep cycle battery that could be easily removed to utilize as well as to put back in the truck to charge it back up. I installed a deep cycle battery and used a disconnect switch and the cables with the battery hold down were retained by a thumb screw so no tools were required to R&R the battery. This worked perfect for him to power a trolling motor, radio, lights etc. Are you planning on removing the battery to utilize it outside of the truck? If not just wire them up like the factory did.

http://forum.73-87chevytrucks.com/smforum/index.php?topic=11045.msg80740#msg80740

,                           ___ 
                         /  _ _ _\_
              ⌠¯¯¯¯¯'   [☼===☼]
              `()_);-;()_)--o--)_)

74 GMC, 75 K5, 84 GMC, 85 K20, 86 k20, 79 K10

Online bd

  • Global Moderator
  • Senior Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 6438
Re: Adding a second battery
« Reply #6 on: February 16, 2014, 04:09:43 PM »
Bear in mind that you are only 'estimating' load.  An exact calculation isn't necessary, in part because an exact calculation rarely holds true to life, so in effect, it is still just an estimation... and, in part because you will incorporate a margin of error to allow for fluctuations in load and to ease stress on your alternator.   Understand that at times an exact calculation is useful, it just isn’t necessary for this particular exercise.

Excluding the winch, you guesstimated 388 watts in aftermarket accessory load - round that up to 400 watts.  In addition, you estimated 65 amps maximum load for factory accessories.  So...

400 watts / 12 volts = 33 amps

     and...

33 amps + 65 amps = 98 amps, so ~100 amps of accessory load w/o the winch.

A 140-amp, three-wire alternator should be adequate for your purpose, requiring a 250+ amp diode isolator, such as a Cole Hersee 48161.  But, diode isolators with that high capacity are pricey.

[Sidebar - Specifying a diode isolator:  A two-battery isolator contains two silicon diodes; one diode for each battery connection.  Each diode is rated to carry only one-half of the total current for which the isolator is rated.  So, a 200-amp isolator can pass a maximum of 100 amps to each battery without fusing one or both diodes.  If the charging system is capable of producing greater than one-half of the isolator rating, you run the risk of destroying the isolator.  Fortunately, charging system output is virtually always apportioned between the connected batteries, so you will never see 100% of the charging current flowing through only one diode.  The notable exception to this is if one battery is disconnected or removed from the system.]

Simple relay isolation that mirrors the factory wiring will be significantly lower in cost.  For example, you might use a 225-amp, Cole Hersee 24812, continuous-duty solenoid with a variation of the factory circuit that Vile linked.  Or, if you prefer the idea of a diode isolator in spite of the high cost, you could selectively shunt the diode isolator, connecting the batteries directly together during crank and heavy winching, using that same Cole Hersee solenoid.  There are a lot of possibilities, depending on what you’re after.

Regardless, with a 140-amp alternator, use 4-gauge copper cable and an 8-gauge fusible link for the alternator charge lead.  Use 1-gauge all copper cable without fusible links for battery-to-battery and battery-to-starter connections.  All terminal ends and splices should be securely crimped, soldered with 60/40 rosin core, and double-wall shrink-sealed.

------------------------------------

You posted that your winch will draw ~370 amps under full load.  Unless your crawling difficult courses regularly, winch pulls should be rare - not the typical routine.  Still, when it occurs, a 400-amp draw is a high current burden to sustain from a single battery for very long.  So, for greater flexibility and performance, as mentioned earlier, engage both batteries while winching heavy loads.  Just be sure to connect the winch along with your other add-on accessories to the auxiliary battery, so they are generally isolated from the primary.  If you readily want to be able to disconnect your winch from battery power when it's not in use, install quick-connect plugs that are appropriately sized to the cables.  All auxiliary loads should be fused.

Consider an 800 CCA, deep-cycle, dual purpose, absorbed glass mat (AGM), marine battery for auxiliary (such as an Optima blue top) and an 800 CCA AGM (Optima red top) for primary cranking.  The AGM batteries should yield increased service life over conventional open cell lead-acid batteries.
Rich
It's difficult to know just how much you don't know until you know it.
In other words... if people learn by making mistakes, by now I should know just about everything!!!
87 R10 Silverado Fleetside 355 MPFI 700R4 3.42 Locker (aka Rusty, aka Mater)

Offline winky

  • Junior Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 509
Re: Adding a second battery
« Reply #7 on: February 16, 2014, 06:33:59 PM »
first off i would like to thank both of you, i love to learn but sometimes its hard to find someone that can teach you.

bd, when you said:
"Or, if you prefer the idea of a diode isolator in spite of the high cost, you could selectively shunt the diode isolator, connecting the batteries directly together during crank and heavy winching, using that same Cole Hersee solenoid."

are talking about putting the solenoid inline before the isolator to Basically bypass it for winching situations? just wanting to be sure i understand. I believe i am going to attempt to draw a few diagrams Solenoid only, diode only, then both for winching cranking etc.. (if i understood you correctly) and ill post them on here and y'all can tell me if there right. If so hopefully it'll help the next guy that comes along with these questions.

The main reason i looked into the dual batteries is for winching purposes to begin with. My friend would kill a buttery every 4-8 months and i figured it was due to all the winch use. But after that i decided i wanted to start lighting the world up at night so i also like the isolator idea

Offline winky

  • Junior Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 509
Re: Adding a second battery
« Reply #8 on: February 16, 2014, 08:25:14 PM »
found this isolator supposedly doesn't have a voltage drop? what do y'all think?

http://sterling-power-usa.com/ProSplit-RZeroVoltDropMarineBatteryIsolator-6.aspx

Online bd

  • Global Moderator
  • Senior Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 6438
Re: Adding a second battery
« Reply #9 on: February 18, 2014, 06:29:06 PM »
That Sterling Power PSR252 marine isolator looks like a great choice.  Call them to verify, but it looks like they rate their isolators per bank.  You might be able to upgrade to a 240-amp alternator in the near future and continue to use that same isolator....   :o

When I posted, "...you could selectively shunt the diode isolator, connecting the batteries directly together during crank and heavy winching,..." I meant connect the relay, or appropriately rated battery disconnect switch, between the battery posts of the isolator, so that the isolator and relay (or switch) are in parallel.  This would connect the two batteries directly together on demand without disconnecting the alternator from the circuit.  You could control the relay by a lighted switch mounted inside the cab.  You could install a simple warning buzzer as well if you wanted the additional reminder that the batteries are in "Boost Mode."

Every configuration presents pros and cons that force the application of good judgement.  Good judgement comes from knowledge and awareness.  When planning a system, try to envision any hidden consequences of your design.  Do your best to predict any potential weakness in its function.  Try to allow for the odd, unintended contingency.  Within the context of your project, its intended purpose, and the goals for your new system, ask yourself:  “What would occur if ___(something bad)___ happened?” ...and... “What if, while I'm in the jungle, I suddenly realize I also need the system to do this: _______________ ?” ...and... “What if I decide to expand the system?  Where will I tap in?” ...then build accordingly.  For instance, if wire “X” chaffed against the sheet metal, is the circuit fully protected?  This can be a bit more complex when integrating multiple power sources.  That’s why both ends of the factory installed cable leading to the starter from the auxiliary battery has fusible links (referring to the link posted by Vile).  There is limited space to connect cables to a battery.  Do you need to incorporate a junction block off to the side?  Where will you mount it?

--------------------------------------------

Following is a little more information to help you dial in the batteries and installation for your project.


Battery Overview:

Batteries do wear out!  A fully charged lead-acid battery produces 12.6 volts across its terminals.  Conventional lead-acid batteries are designed to cyclically discharge and charge between 65% and 100% state-of-charge without incurring abnormal damage or sacrificing lifespan.  Discharge below 65% state-of-charge (~12.35 volts) is referred to as deep-cycle discharge.  A conventional lead-acid battery will not tolerate repeated deep-cycle discharge without a noticeable loss of lifespan.  When electrical load exceeds the reserve capacity of a battery, or the combined reserve capacity of parallel connected batteries, the battery enters deep-cycle discharge.

Undercharging accounts for nearly 40% of battery failures.  Undercharging results from:  (1) insufficient charging voltage actually reaching the battery, and (2) insufficient charging time for the battery to fully recover following discharge.  The effects of undercharging can be greatly exaggerated by chronic deep-cycle discharge caused by overuse of electrical accessories, and by parasitic draws over long periods of battery non-use that result in sulfation (an impermeable coating that forms on the plates, limiting chemical activity and diminishing capacity).

Although not as common, overcharging and high heat also ruins batteries!  So does freezing the electrolyte by prying loose internal components and cracking cases.  Contrary to popular myth, batteries will not discharge by sitting on a cold concrete floor.  However, when charging out of the vehicle, it's best to set batteries on a thermal insulator (wood block), so the internal temperature of the battery remains uniform, since temperature directly impacts the rate of chemical activity inside the battery.

Abnormal chassis vibrations and impacts, common with off-road trucks, can damage batteries internally by causing conductive materials to break loose, effectively decreasing plate surface area and causing internal shorts that diminish battery capacity.  In addition, exceedingly stiff battery cables, when not properly secured, can wrench battery terminals loose from the case, resulting in electrolyte leakage, terminals separating from the plates and, occasionally, battery explosion from internal arcing.


Maintenance:

Batteries generally fail over a period of time.  Neglect and poor maintenance, including improper maintenance procedures, are the underlying causes of most battery failures.  Batteries require maintenance!  Even “maintenance free batteries” require maintenance.  At the very least, batteries should be kept clean, rinsed with clear water and scrubbed with a plastic-bristle brush.  Never use chemicals to wash a battery case or neutralize acid-salt encrusted battery posts.  Physically remove hold-downs to scrub away encrusted salts.  Chemicals "find" a path into the cells through the vents and around imperfectly sealed posts and pads.  If not completely rinsed away chemicals when moist are as conductive as electrolyte, resulting in parasitic draws.  Disassemble, then scrub and clean battery posts and pads with a steel brush made specifically for that purpose.  Keep all of the cable ends and terminals thoroughly clean of encrusting salts.  Liberally coat battery connections, cable ends, and connecting hardware with viscous, non-conductive white grease to seal out penetration by the electrolyte.  Use of the fibrous acid-neutralizing battery post rings available from the local auto parts store works, but check the rings and their effectiveness often. 

Periodically remove the cell caps and check cell electrolyte level.  Electrolyte levels should be consistent between cells and touching the bottom of the split rings.  Grossly fluctuating fluid levels between cells potentially indicates a developing battery problem.  If the tops of the plates are exposed, you procrastinated too long and probably have some battery damage.  You'll need to add water, slow charge, and then test the battery.  Add only distilled water when necessary to raise cell fluid levels.  Never add supplemental electrolyte, battery rejuvenator, or any other chemical to a battery.  Check battery mounting and ensure that it holds the battery secure and level.


Choosing the Right Battery:

Select a battery that properly fits the tray, or modify the tray, so the battery sits level and can be stably and tightly secured.  Ensure that the terminals are a safe distance from metal hold-downs, brackets and any surrounding metal. 

Select a battery with sufficient cranking capacity for the application.  The CCA (cold cranking amps) rating is the maximum current a fully charged battery can deliver at 0° F over a period of 30 seconds without individual cell voltage dropping below 1.2 volts. CCA describes a battery’s ability to crank.

Make sure the battery can adequately supply the typical engine-OFF electrical load of the vehicle.  Reserve capacity is the time in minutes that a fully charged battery can maintain a 25-amp load without individual cell voltage dropping below 1.75 volts.  Reserve capacity describes a battery’s ability to supply all electrical loads while acting as the primary power source.  The greater the reserve capacity of a battery, the longer it will take to discharge.  When running multiple “parallel connected” batteries, match the reserve capacity ratings to avoid chronic differential discharge between batteries.

CCA and reserve capacity are distinctly different ratings.  CCA is important for determining the amount of load you can place on a battery.  Reserve capacity gives you an idea of how long the battery will support its load.


Cabling:

I touched on battery cable gauges in a previous post.  Onto battery ground details and winch connections.  Ground the auxiliary battery directly to the primary battery (negative to negative) then ground the primary battery to the engine.  Routing the ground in this fashion, to a common point, will eliminate potential voltage loops and help avoid electrolysis.  It also lessens the number of large and weighty cables dangling off the motor - one less thing in your way while working and showing off.   :)

Run the winch power leads directly to your auxiliary battery.  Use the winch manufacturer's recommendation for circuit protection.  Run all other accessory power off of a jumpered 3/8" (10 mm) junction block with cover mounted adjacent to the auxiliary battery.  If the block is more than two feet away, protect the jumper with a fuse link at the battery connection.  Remember, fusible wire is always four wire gauges smaller than the wire it protects.  So, a 4-gauge jumper will use a six-inch length of 8-gauge link.

Way too many words for such a simple thing.   :'(
Rich
It's difficult to know just how much you don't know until you know it.
In other words... if people learn by making mistakes, by now I should know just about everything!!!
87 R10 Silverado Fleetside 355 MPFI 700R4 3.42 Locker (aka Rusty, aka Mater)

Offline winky

  • Junior Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 509
Re: Adding a second battery
« Reply #10 on: February 18, 2014, 07:12:00 PM »
i can tell that you are well educated. Thanks again for the help if i get to the point were i am bothering you let me know. If someone is willing to give me advice or knowledge on a subject i always try to take from it and educate myself more, with that being said i like to know why you do this or why you do that. understanding how things works allows me to be able to prevent/fix problems.
Please understand i am not second guessing your methods. i just don't want to be the guy that cuts the good end off a ham every year before i cook it because that's what my grandmother and my mother always did, just to find out 10 years later the only reason my grandmother did it was because she didn't have a pan big enough for the entire ham. :/

You stated before to use copper cable - What is the reasoning for this? better conduction?

what is electrolysis?

and what is voltage loops?

I always assumed that the more grounds the better.
« Last Edit: February 18, 2014, 07:13:53 PM by winky »

Online bd

  • Global Moderator
  • Senior Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 6438
Re: Adding a second battery
« Reply #11 on: February 18, 2014, 08:48:31 PM »
LOL!  I'm more likely to bore you with answers than you are to tire me with questions.  But, let's not make it a contest!  The worst you could do is catch me in an assumption that I have relied on for years without realizing it until you asked (throwing away the best end of the ham)!  I've tried to avoid doing that all my life, too.  But, some may persist and others leak in due to age!  Always wanting to know "the why" resulted in a broad education, though.  Just nothing that ever made me any money.   ;D   I've discovered there are a lot of people who have fixed opinions about "the why" that won't withstand even mild examination. 

Here I go again!  My posts have been so long-winded I envisioned you with a bruised forehead from dozing off.  I've cracked my noggin a few times proofing my writing.   ::)

Down to business...

Several variations of battery cable are used.  GM used copper-clad aluminum for many years into the build of our trucks, because of lower cost and to decrease overall weight.  Eventually, the aluminum cable builds resistance.  They are very difficult to repair properly, hence they are disposable.  The cable of choice for best service life, consistent conductivity, and cost is all-copper, stranded cable, which is probably the most common battery cable you will find available.  But, since everything is imported nowadays, it's better to know what you are buying.  Purchase from a reputable dealer.  For harsh service environments, you can upgrade to welding cable that has a much higher strand count for greater flexibility, and that is insulated with neoprene rubber.  I make all of my battery jumper cables out of 00 welding cable ...for a premium investment.  Except for the few that have walked, they have lasted 40 years in commercial and private service.

Electrolysis results from two primary causes, chemical imbalances in the cooling system and ground paths through the cooling system.  It is more common and damaging when the cooling system incorporates aluminum components.  This link should explain it suitably well:  Electrolysis 101.

If high-current ground connections are separated by a resistance (i.e., poor connections) a voltage drop can exist between them.  In the case of a 5,000 watt winch drawing ~400 amps, approximately equally from two batteries (200 amps per battery), per Ohm's Law, the winch has an effective resistance of ~32 milliohms.  A resistance of only ~15 milliohms (too small to accurately measure without lab equipment) will result in a 3-volt drop between the separate ground connections.  If some of that ground path occurs through the coolant - electrolysis.  In addition, the battery below the voltage drop may actually be flowing only about 180 amps and the auxiliary battery might be supplying 220 amps.  Medium-current grounds are more forgiving, but generally more consistent with greater impact in the long run.
Rich
It's difficult to know just how much you don't know until you know it.
In other words... if people learn by making mistakes, by now I should know just about everything!!!
87 R10 Silverado Fleetside 355 MPFI 700R4 3.42 Locker (aka Rusty, aka Mater)

Offline 87V20Kansan

  • Newbie
  • Posts: 79
Re: Adding a second battery
« Reply #12 on: February 19, 2014, 11:09:16 AM »
Great analogy with the ham Winky! That kind of attitude will eventually lead you learning more skills than you ever dreamed of being able to learn. Eventually you will know how to do so many different things that you will be selective about who you reveal certain skills to. EVERYBODY always has something they need fixed for nothing. Ask me how I know...... ::) I get the questions all of the time.

You are smart to pay attention to BD here. I have been a Journeyman Wireman for 15 years now and used to be heavily involved in the automotive wiring/car audio market before that. He has given you a metric crapton of knowledge that will last you a lifetime.
Cecil: 1987 V20, TBI 350, TH400, 4:10's, 7" lift, 37" H1 beadlocked runflats. Cummins swap someday.

Offline winky

  • Junior Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 509
Re: Adding a second battery
« Reply #13 on: February 19, 2014, 07:33:32 PM »
thankyou and the ham was the best example i could come up with haha. i actually enjoy learning so no dosing off here. ive learned that it is much easier to Learn from people that have been hands on with something then reading from a book.
this is off topic but i would LOVE to build a crawler next, Ive built 3 rice burners, a few go carts, etc and i learn from every project i do. built my first 5.7 when i was 14. my dad is a big chevy guy for the earlier year trucks so i guess that's where my drive comes from. Since i was 14 i always dreamed of having a custom shop building older trucks, and cars. It gave me ambition that no one else my age had and most my age still don't have. I am Very thankful that God blessed me with my mindset :) 21 years old with one eye ;)  I have 3 ASE certifications, have passed welding exams (told i wouldn't be able to weld with one eye),ive built all kinds of engines and now i work in a body shop and can do body work as well as spray a car pretty decent. most people that come in the shop are impressed with my abilities but i always feel like i am behind in the learning curve and am fighting to catch up.

"EVERYBODY always has something they need fixed for nothing"
my only downfall so far lol. almost ever weekend i have something im fixing for someone. an old friend from school hit a deer, i fixed that last weekend, next weekend im replacing cv axles in my mother n laws car the week after that i am gonna be doing brake work on an 06 chevy 1500. i cant complain though i enjoy helping people and hopefully they will return the favor one day plus it helps keep your skills sharp.

thanks for everyone's reply hopefully i can get some change up and get this project started soon! ive got a pretty good starting point right now thanks to all the helpful people here. anyways theres my book for the night lol. sorry about my grammar etc my boy is always climbing on me so its hard sometimes to check so hopefully my post aren't too hard to read .

Offline bake74

  • Senior Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 5871
    • Build Thread
Re: Adding a second battery
« Reply #14 on: February 20, 2014, 07:47:46 AM »
Great analogy with the ham Winky! That kind of attitude will eventually lead you learning more skills than you ever dreamed of being able to learn.

     I second this, ok the ham part was a great analogy, but I really want to second the attitude part, if more people were to think this way these days, I would have my flying cars by now.  LOL. 
     You know next year is the 30th anniversary of back to the future.
     WHERE IS MY MR FUSION 10,000 ?
« Last Edit: February 20, 2014, 07:50:10 AM by bake74 »
#1: The easiest and most obvious solution to any problem is 99% of the time correct.
#2: There is no such thing as impossible, it just takes longer.
  74 k10, 77k10    Tom