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« Last post by Chevygold on April 20, 2024, 01:52:53 PM »
Hi Vile thanks for the link but I'd already found that info, anyway after a false start when no start as no spark even though all the tests I'd done checked out so changed the ICM for the new one I already had and bingo the beast lives! So my MSD cost me about £140 to get me going again, motor revs cleanly to 6K without any hint of the misfire which was there before, ran out of time today so didn't get time to check the timing at full advance and with the vacuum connected so will update tomorrow.
Many thanks for all your help
Graham
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« Last post by VileZambonie on April 20, 2024, 07:36:06 AM »
Water pump starts leaking and now what? You wait a week for another mail order turd to show up or you run down the street and exchange your lifetime warranty pump? Some things are better to buy local especially wear items. As bd said, there's no benefit other than a little weight. Never use RTV as thread sealant. Permatex PTFE works for most applications. Thanks bd, that is well written Amen
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« Last post by VileZambonie on April 20, 2024, 07:25:51 AM »
As long as you have a healthy functioning fuel pump, stock is fine. It's fuel volume that is needed with carbureted systems and if you are exceeding what it can supply, you have other issues. If your plumbing is correct, when the engine stops, the fuel flow stops as long as you are right side up. If you are looking for a way to contain your fuel with a positive shut off or for racing regulations it may be needed otherwise I don't see why you would want or need it.
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« Last post by VileZambonie on April 20, 2024, 07:13:32 AM »
Sounds like your ecm fuse is blown and you have leaking injector(s). Is the engine light coming on? Are you able to retrieve DTC's? The fuel pump has a backup function which will energize the fuel pump if there is oil pressure. There's no need to guess as the diagnostic strategy is black and white. Follow the strategy based diagnostic flowchart beginning with A3 provided A1 and A2 are not applicable to your issue. http://forum.73-87chevytrucks.com/smforum/index.php?board=51.0
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« Last post by VileZambonie on April 20, 2024, 07:00:29 AM »
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« Last post by Mike81K10 on April 19, 2024, 10:11:37 PM »
Do you have an electrical choke or a manual (mechanical) choke? I was debating if I should use the wire that goes to the Rochester QJet or put in a manual choke. I believe the 750 chokes have two wire connectors, a power and the other probably ground.
I was also planing on a fuel shutoff solenoid valve 12VDC and was wondering about a good durable one if anyone had used them. Would be a good way to block fuel flow when not in use.
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« Last post by Mike81K10 on April 19, 2024, 08:32:54 PM »
Thanks for the info!
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« Last post by bd on April 19, 2024, 05:13:53 PM »
IMHO, although the aluminum pumps look really cool, they don't perform any better than ferrous pumps for street applications. I've been happy with the Milodon high-flow iron pump on my SBC. In reality, as long as the radiator has unobstructed air and coolant flows, even a factory pump should circulate the coolant just fine.
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« Last post by Mike81K10 on April 19, 2024, 04:43:24 PM »
Thanks bd, that is well written and it did not occur to me to look at the technical info on the forum for that information. You did very well and I appreciate your assistance and will use what I read. Unfortunately, I already bought a water Edelbrock Water pump. What brands do you recommend?
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« Last post by JohnnyPopper on April 19, 2024, 04:26:24 PM »
You're probably suffering from the same thing on my '89. I can hear it run when I apply B+, but it sounds like it's sloshing gas when I listen at the fill pipe.
The rubber hose section on the pump assembly is rotted out and the pump only produces 5 lbs of pressure, as the rest recycles back into the tank.
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