Best reliability fan controller

[fiddler]

So the Hayden fan controller I have on my 1973 chevy C10 stepside 350 engine failed today.  The box opened between the relay and the output wire.  Luckily I had wire in the tool kit and I could wire the fan direct to get home.  So does anybody have a brand suggestion that is the most reliable fan controller??  Thanks for any replies...

[bd]

Although there are many controllers on the market, I use this and I'm very pleased with its performance and adaptability...

Dakota Digital PAC-2750

You may need to purchase a separate sender depending on the configuration of your setup.  So there is potential for a nominal added cost.

Email Captkaos at webmaster@73-87chevytrucks.com for price and availability.  He is a vendor for Dakota Digital.

[VileZambonie]

It's pretty easy to wire up your own fan control circuit with a manual override included. Adding that feature is a good fail-safe regardless of what you buy. If said part fails, how long will you be dead in the water waiting for another or can you simply push a button?

[fiddler]

I stuck a switch in the circuit when I got home.  A PO had switches for horns and signals and such below the dash and I have not filled all of the holes yet so put a switch in one of them.  That will do until the new controller arrives.  Unless I forget to turn it off, but I carry jumper cables.  I may be old and forgetful, but I have enough experience due to old that I am usually pretty well prepared for me.......  I am going to leave the switch in parallel under the hood in case this happens again.  Much quicker to throw the switch rather than run a wire from the battery....

[fiddler]

So BD, they recommend in the cabin for that controller.  Is that where you put yours?  Under the hood up front by the left headlight is where the controller is now.  There is so much room under the hood on these trucks and the spot is dry and probably cool enough.....

[bd]

I use it on a Jeep XJ 4.0L and have it mounted on the left kick panel, behind the dash.  Jeep Cherokees with the 4.0L are notorious for running hot because they were not originally intended to be powered by the AMC inline 6 cylinder, which is oversized for the Cherokee engine bay.  I reconfigured the wiring to override the factory ~215°F ECM controlled auxiliary fan as well as to engage the auxiliary fan continuously whenever the A/C is on (as opposed to cycling with the compressor).  I also have a manual override switch installed.  The drawback with my configuration is that the auxiliary fan energizes in cold weather whenever the defroster is on.  Hence, I still need to introduce a supplemental control that automatically restores factory function in cold weather.  Do to the price of the module, I recommend mounting it under the dash out of harm's way as suggested by the manufacturer.

[VileZambonie]

My old ZJ had the same issue, so I ran an auxiliary pusher in front of the condenser. I had the fan controller in the engine compartment and it was a Hayden I bought at autozone. Reason I chose that one was because they all had them in stock and should it fail, just swap it out same day, one of the many reasons I avoid mail ordering certain parts. The 4.0L - non EGR, small radiator, under cooled, they always ran hot in the summer especially with the AC on.

[Stewart G Griffin]

i can't say with authority that it's the MOST reliable, but i've been using Spal #063-FRH for three years now.  It has been working great.  There is no sender/sensor with this kit---i have to turn the fan on/off manually, they have other kits with senders, but the point i'm trying to make is Spal makes good stuff.

[Shifty]

2nd for SPAL Quality.