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ok, now, if you wanna check from the other end, look under the dash around where the brake pedal mounts. there should be two wires, one being an orange which is hot all the time (coming from the fusebox) and the other should be white (i keep saying "should be" because i don't have a factory service manual, just this Haynes POS). if you see these two wires grouped together then that is the connection. then you'll just need a brake light switch. if you still have the factory connector (they can hide on ya) the you are most likely gonna have to get the brake light switch for the options it originally had, so the connector will hook up, unless you are gonna cut and splice it. hope this helps, good luck!
Weither you have air or not, doesn't make a difference.... A Cruise Control switch is a two-stage switch, front half controls the Brake Lights, and the rear half controls the Cruise Disable.. When you add overdrive or a Lock-up converter to the mix, another stage is added(In some cases it can be just piggy backed off of one other halves of a two stage) to the middle of the switch....Non Cruise, Automatic SwitchNon Cruise, 4spd Auto/Auto wih Lock Up Converter3spd Auto, With CruiseNon-Cruise, with Manual Trans.Those are the majority of the different switches available, with a few exceptions... In some of the Older trucks with Cruise, a seperate Stop Lamp Switche was used for each feature(Ie Brakes got one, and Cruise got another).. Some Early 4spd/Lock-up Trans models, employed one two stage switch for the Cruise and Brakes, with a single stage switch pulling duty for the TCC...
Instead of calling myself Hank Hill I should call myself Homer Simpson because I was haveing a Homer moment in my last post, Duh.A Brake light switch is just a switch so it shouldnt matter which set of terminals on which end of the switch I hook up to.
glad ya got it going man. yea, one switch ya missed dragon...the one for my setup (although you mentioned it)...i have a 4 spd. auto and cruise...heck, looking in the classic industries catalog, all they wanna know is do you have an auto and do you have cruise. they don't care about lockup convertors or whatnot...but that's because they go by your year and just give you what your truck originally had...
Not trying to hijack this thread, but I have a similar issue. My signals, hazards, and brake lights (when pedal is pressed) work, but the parking lights (in the rear, dual filament bulbs) don't. Is this a ground or what?
Quote from: Hank Hill on January 22, 2008, 07:46:11 PMInstead of calling myself Hank Hill I should call myself Homer Simpson because I was haveing a Homer moment in my last post, Duh.A Brake light switch is just a switch so it shouldnt matter which set of terminals on which end of the switch I hook up to. Actually Homer, since it is only a $9-20 switch, why not buy a new one specific to what you are trying to do, so you don't have to worry about the Old/Salvaged Switch not being wired correctly???
Quote from: Dragon on January 22, 2008, 10:56:51 PMQuote from: Hank Hill on January 22, 2008, 07:46:11 PMInstead of calling myself Hank Hill I should call myself Homer Simpson because I was haveing a Homer moment in my last post, Duh.A Brake light switch is just a switch so it shouldnt matter which set of terminals on which end of the switch I hook up to. Actually Homer, since it is only a $9-20 switch, why not buy a new one specific to what you are trying to do, so you don't have to worry about the Old/Salvaged Switch not being wired correctly???Well im not going to buy new if I can help it because hopefully the one a get off the junked truck will have the wires /factory terminals to plug right in to my truck. If I do end up buying new I would probable have to order it from Chevy Duty and since im in Canada that $10 part would probable end up costing me $50-$70.I guess if I did buy new, the one for a standrd transmission and no cruise would be the one I need because its the only one with just two plugs. Thanks again for posting the pictures.