oh, ok... we will be sure to do that... thanks... Was this a frustrating swap?
That is so sick, you must give away some details about that swap.
Here’s a quick rundown on the swap. Forgive the rough nature of the explanation: did it in a hurry but if anybody has any questions or would like me to elaborate on something I would be glad to answer.
It might be a little more difficult with a 2wd because of the engine crossmember and coil buckets. For me the most difficult thing was figuring out the radiator, innercooler, and ac condenser placement. On the 94-98.5 dodges(and probably through 2002) the radiator, innercooler, and condenser are all bolted together closely and neatly as a unit. I made my Gm radiator and condenser work for the swap, but i had to put the innercooler in place of the condenser, and remount the condenser in the front. If i had to do it allover again, i would just build the front of the truck to accommodate the dodge setup from the fan shroud to the condenser.
You can install a 1 inch body lift or raised hood to make the swap easier, but regardless of what some people say, it can be done with body in its stock form. i did.
2wd: you will have to do something with the coils , get some stiffer aftermarket ones or find some from another stock application that are stiffer
4wd: lift springs or have custom ones made to accommodate the extra weight.
ac compressor clearance. It will not clear the frame how it is. I had to make a cutout and beef the frame back up to clear. However, somebody has since then found a factory cummins application that come in some of kenworth’s smaller b series trucks that moves the compressor and alternator around to clear the frame and i dont think it is that expensive. I can find the part number it is somewhere out the on the internet.
alternator: the dodge one sucks!!! another thing i would do differently. The standard old gm alternator like the one that came on the truck originally is self regulating, and works a lot better that the dodge one that requires a regulator, and a ton of wiring. From 1991.5 and up, the dodge alternators were regulated by the ecm. I did not want to use the giant ecm just to use it as a regulator, so i bought the external firewall mounted ones that came on dodge trucks in the 80s. Unfortunately these regulators are also NOTORIOUS for breaking. i have gone through 4 so far. There is also a stock cummins mount (or make one) that uses that gm style alternator, then all you do is have to find a pulley that works. I strongly suggest using the gm alternator. If you do use the dodge one, dont use the dodge regulator like i did.
fuel, drop tanks and clean. run fuel lines to cummins supply pump.
wiring: if using a engine from a 1989-1993 dodge, with a rotary pump, simply hook up ignition hot to the hold solenoid and done
however, if you are using a engine from 94-98.5 with a p7100 inline pump, their is a relay that operates a pull and then hold function on the fuel shutoff solenoid. This has to be hooked up correctly or it can catch on fire so i hear. Mine hasn't caught fire so i think i got it right lol. Starter just hooks up with same wire, i just had to shorten it to clean it up.
hydroboost. If the pick up has hydroboost brakes, just take off the reservoir can from the chevy powersteering pump and put it on the dodge. Then you get the extra return port for the hydroboost (the cummins uses the same saginaw pump as gm or at lease its similar and the reservoir fits)
vacuum: if the chevy has a vacuum booster for the brakes, the cummins has a vacuum pump right inline with the powersteering pump, simply hook it up to the booster. Otherwise, just use the vacuum pump to operate the gm ac controls in the cab.
transmission crossmember: stock one and mount worked for me on my nv4500, just moved it back and re drilled the holes, and shorted the intermediate driveshaft.
If u use a standard transmission
Getrag transmission: came on 89-93 notorious for coming apart btw the 4 friends i have that own first gen dodge cummins that have all replaced theirs, one even twice. Nothing you can really do to fix them
Nv4500 Transmission: came on 94 and up. notorious for the fifth gear falling off the main shaft. Can be fixed with a upgraded fifth gear locking nut. otherwise great transmission.
clutch: i used the dodge slave cylinder and a ford master and line from a early 90s f350. you can also go with universal aftermarket parts which will cost more but is a cleaner looking and working alternative.
Engines:
early 89-93 engines are good and inexpensive
94-98.5 are great! the inline pump design allows for much more power. The motors come with much more power stock as well. These motors were available with 4 different horsepower from the factory depending on year and transmissions. I have the highest one stock at 215. i have also bumped the fuel plate and advanced the time which has gave it quite a boost.
24 valves and HPCR(High pressure common rail) engines. Same issues as far as fitting, just much more wiring being that they are electronic.
DOWEL PIN! there is a dowel pin in the front gear case of these motors which can rattle loose and destroy the motor. Research dowel pin on cummins it will come up allover the place.
motor mounts: some people build and sell them. I would make them personally that way you know the motor will be placed in the truck where you want it.
you will have to trim the very front xmember the clear the harmonic balancer
ac lines: save all parts from the factory set up on the dodge and chevy as they might be used when having a shop build new lines for the truck
sound deadening: They are loud! too loud. while the motor is out i would recommend spaying bed liner, undercoating, or lizard skin sound deadening on the firewall to cut down on the noise.
im sure there is something i forgot to mention, just ask I enjoy helping.
-Fred
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