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Did you resurface the rotors and install new pads at the same time?Brake hose condition?New pads will not seat correctly if the glaze is not removed from the rotors and will pull if uneven wear is not removed by surfacing also.Contaminated brake pads will also grab unevenly.Rear brakes adjusted properly?Bleeding procedures furthest from the MC first, then next furthest with a helper or a pressure bleeder.Bleeding all four brakes for the pro portioning valve to operate properly.Master cylinder condition also.
Sounds like you still have some issue with the suspension for it to be pulling right Although it could be a brake line Get some of the one man bleeder screws. Those are handy !Carefully check the metal lines and rubber lines and when you're bleeding them try putting a rubber line from the bleeder screw down to the same size container on both sides and pump the brakes a few times and see if each container has the same amount of fluid
Quote from: blazer74 on March 21, 2016, 11:21:25 PMDid you resurface the rotors and install new pads at the same time?Brake hose condition?New pads will not seat correctly if the glaze is not removed from the rotors and will pull if uneven wear is not removed by surfacing also.Contaminated brake pads will also grab unevenly.Rear brakes adjusted properly?Bleeding procedures furthest from the MC first, then next furthest with a helper or a pressure bleeder.Bleeding all four brakes for the pro portioning valve to operate properly.Master cylinder condition also.Brake hoses are only 2yrs old and checked for bulging.2)rotors are less than 2 years old and the slight glaze you see is mostly due to the camera. This is surely not the issue due to the fact that I have had the problem since I got the truck and lifting it made it more obviouse.3)rear brake were the first things I checked. I did back the passenger side off just a bit but to no avail.4) Always good to be reminded about how to bleed brakes but I managed to actually remember it on my own this time...this doesn't happen often.5) master cylinder is OE from '87 and I'm no stranger to fluid, heat and cycling of hydraulic components and their effects on orings.. this is what I'm likely to investigate but after I spent sufficient time verifying geometry and spring hangers etc..I think I'm gonna barrow my buddies go pro and mount it to see the front end from the front and then retest with a view from the rear.Quote from: roundhouse on March 23, 2016, 08:26:29 AMSounds like you still have some issue with the suspension for it to be pulling right Although it could be a brake line Get some of the one man bleeder screws. Those are handy !Carefully check the metal lines and rubber lines and when you're bleeding them try putting a rubber line from the bleeder screw down to the same size container on both sides and pump the brakes a few times and see if each container has the same amount of fluid I fully plan on doing this! Where can I find the one man bleeders?
http://www.napaonline.com/napa/en/p/NDP6751566_0480799352never knew wow. and http://www.autozone.com/brakes-and-traction-control/brake-bleeder-screw/dorman-brake-bleeder-screw/chevrolet/v30-1-ton-p-u-4wd/1987/8-cylinders-k-5-7l-tbi/347139_453145_27048/?checkfit=true
Froto, why not perform a hydraulic pressure test side-to-side? At least you would know what you are chasing.
Sounds like you still have some issue with the suspension for it to be pulling right.