73-87chevytrucks.com
73-87 Chevy _ GMC Trucks => Engine/Drivetrain => LT/LS Swaps => Topic started by: Colby on December 27, 2014, 09:44:35 PM
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I've done a lot of searching and have read so much that it is all mixing together in my head and not making sense any more, so I figured I'd just post so I can get answers to my specific questions, all in one place. Plus, my swap is just getting started, so as I get hung up, I can just keep posting on this thread.
I pulled the 6.0L out of a donor 2002 Yukon Denali that I have, so I can use any parts necessary for the swap, just want to make sure I get them all off before I scrap the SUV. I'll be using Brendan at LT1Swap.com to reprogram my PCM and Adam at LSXharness.com to rework my harness. I was meticulous in removing all the connectors on the engine harness so that nothing was damaged. I've got dirty dingo engine mounts and an Advance Adaptors kit to mate the 6.0 to my SM465 4 speed manual tranny.
Do I need any of the other wiring harnesses out of the Yukon? I think I probably need the one that goes from the gas pedal out since I am going to stick with the drive by wire??
Will the power steering lines work just the way they are with the steering box on the 74?
What are my options for fuel pumps if I want to use my factory saddle tank instead of going with the rear mount blazer tank? Would it be better to pull the fuel pump from the Yukon and fab it into one of those aluminum tool box/fuel tank combos in the bed?
Are the exhaust manifolds going to clear everything, or am I going to have to get headers??
Am I ok with using my factory 74 radiator, or should I use the radiator out of the Yukon? I plan on running the clutch fan that is on the engine.
Sooo many more questions, but I'll leave it at that for now. Thanks in advance for your help.
Shawn
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Yes you have to have the TAC module (wiring to the pedal) it should come out easily.
If you keep the post 78 non metric box you will have to find conversion fittings.
Buy a 87 EFI sending unit and put a AC241 or AC380 pump in it. Then cut the barbs off the fuel lines and put these on there (I would just convert both to -6): http://www.jegs.com/i/Earls/361/165006/10002/-1?parentProductId=749418
The manifolds (depending on what they look like may require some frame rail clearance depending on how it mounts/located the motor. 2010 camaro manifolds will work.
You should be able to use your radiator, but you need to make sure which size hoses it has. I believe it will have the larger opening, if that is the case the factory hose won't bolt up.
I would keep the donor (short of sheetmetal parts and body panels) until you are done. You could part out pieces and help fund the project.
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Thanks Capt!
I'll take a look at that TAC module. Is there a harness that goes from the TAC module to the PCM as well that I need to pull?
I was planning on using my 74 Steering box (Pre 78?). Are you saying that the pump on the 6.0L is metric and my box is SAE? Who makes conversion fittings? My local NAPA makes hydraulic hoses, could they just fab me up a couple hoses with metric fittings on one end and SAE on the other?
Will that 87 sending unit use the same locking ring that is on the top of my 74 tank, or do I need to dig up a 87 tank??
I'll check sizes on my radiator and water pump to see what that all looks like, thanks.
I appreciate all your help.
Shawn
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There is a harness that comes off the pedal assembly and passes through the firewall and plugs into the TAC module, the wiring harness plugs into the TAC module also, you need all of it.
If they can make the lines, you should be fine. Keep in mind one may work (return) but the other is a hardline that is bent to miss the pump and it will need matching ends on it.
The 87 sending unit is a drop in. just make sure you get it for the right side.
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Thanks again Capt! Stay tuned, many more questions to come ;-)
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Hey Capt,
Hoping to get the 6.0 set in the frame today or tomorrow, I'll post some pics.
I bought the 3 outlet 87' sending unit and am going to get the fittings that you recommended from Jegs. I'm having a hard time finding any fuel pumps that match the numbers you listed above, any links to where I can find them? Is one, the 241 or the 380, better than the other?
On the steering box, I can't get those lines made, so is there a better option for a steering box that I can buy that will accept the lines from the 6.0, or do you know of a source for fittings that will convert that box to metric?
Thanks again.
Shawn
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This must be the fuel pump you are talking about?
http://www.jegs.com/p/ACDelco/ACDelco-Electric-Fuel-Pumps/2483372/10002/-1?itemPerPage=60&pno=1
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78-up steering box will work with the current setup.
For the pump just spec one out for a LT1 Corvette or a Vortec Silverado. If you go to Autozone with that number they can look it up. I recommend AC pumps.
This is the EP241..
http://www.jegs.com/i/ACDelco/065/EP241/10002/-1?parentProductId=2483372
EP381
http://www.jegs.com/i/ACDelco/065/EP381/10002/-1?parentProductId=2483372
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Got the engine on the frame finally. Sent the computer and harness away, purchased an Ep241 fuel pump, steering box for an 80' K10 and 3 outlet 87' Efi sending unit.
Going to install my new brake lines from inlinetube, new calipers and all new rear brake parts in the next couple days.
Getting closer.
Shawn
(http://i439.photobucket.com/albums/qq119/MtnManCO/C4CAF496-356C-4050-BDAA-38942EB4B2D4_zps2xabphft.jpg) (http://s439.photobucket.com/user/MtnManCO/media/C4CAF496-356C-4050-BDAA-38942EB4B2D4_zps2xabphft.jpg.html)
(http://i439.photobucket.com/albums/qq119/MtnManCO/D1875F53-1EB9-4821-AD5A-E0587EF08626_zps0qdlq92n.jpg) (http://s439.photobucket.com/user/MtnManCO/media/D1875F53-1EB9-4821-AD5A-E0587EF08626_zps0qdlq92n.jpg.html)
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Looks Good!
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Hey Capt,
I'm getting closer! I have a couple questions though. I bought a cover for the oil cooler lines port on the oil pan that is drilled and threaded, I plan on running my factory mechanical oil pressure guage off of that, any problem with doing this? Will it work?
What do I do for a water temp sensor so that my factory temp gauge will work?
Thanks,
Shawn
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looking good dude!
im curious about your transmission and transfer case setup. i mean i see it but i dont know what im looking at im pretty new to the 4x4s
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Thanks! The drivetrain is all stock 74' except the engine. What you are looking at is a SM465 4 speed manual and a NP205 transfer case.
Shawn
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I would run the oil pressure off the top of the motor behind the intake. that is what I used.
Are you talking about the blockoff at the oil filter?
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Yeah, that block off. The one you buy from jegs is tapped. I found a cool idea for my temp gauge, I'll post pics when I get it done.
I don't see any place on top of the block behind the intake to be able to do it? Mine has all those spots filled by electrical sensor doohickeys.
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Who's harness are you using? The one at the back of the intake isn't used on standalone setups.
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I had Adam at lsxharness do my harness. It came back with those plugs intact.
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It is here:
(http://www.73-87chevytrucks.com/projects/87R10-Driver/R10drvr_69.jpg)
If you have a stand alone harness it shouldn't use this sender. It would be for the factory setup...
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Finally got most of the loose ends tied up with the swap. Got to fire it up for the first time tonight, runs really rough without the MAF and o2's hooked up, but it felt good to hear it run.
We are about done with the body work, hopefully primer and paint next week.
Getting Closer!
(http://i439.photobucket.com/albums/qq119/MtnManCO/Photobucket%20Desktop%20-%20Marcis%20iMac/Truck%20Restoration/2302A72F-46BB-46B9-BC7B-ED297AD52563_zpsdeaesdyc.jpg) (http://s439.photobucket.com/user/MtnManCO/media/Photobucket%20Desktop%20-%20Marcis%20iMac/Truck%20Restoration/2302A72F-46BB-46B9-BC7B-ED297AD52563_zpsdeaesdyc.jpg.html)
(http://i439.photobucket.com/albums/qq119/MtnManCO/Photobucket%20Desktop%20-%20Marcis%20iMac/Truck%20Restoration/6A0C4619-2782-48C2-8AA4-53527CDC4CA0_zpsoparhud7.jpg) (http://s439.photobucket.com/user/MtnManCO/media/Photobucket%20Desktop%20-%20Marcis%20iMac/Truck%20Restoration/6A0C4619-2782-48C2-8AA4-53527CDC4CA0_zpsoparhud7.jpg.html)
Shawn
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looks great in that bay
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Short video of it running!
(http://i439.photobucket.com/albums/qq119/MtnManCO/Photobucket%20Desktop%20-%20Marcis%20iMac/Truck%20Restoration/th_D37CC924-BD68-45BB-A0F6-07F8B5AA0764_zpslporbklo.jpg) (http://i439.photobucket.com/albums/qq119/MtnManCO/Photobucket%20Desktop%20-%20Marcis%20iMac/Truck%20Restoration/D37CC924-BD68-45BB-A0F6-07F8B5AA0764_zpslporbklo.mp4)
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Nice job
I'd get the radatior inlet swapped to the passenger side so your hose isn't five feet long
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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The top hose is the factory hose that is on all the 99-up trucks...
Looking good!
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Thanks Capt! I appreciate all your help through this.
I bought a new radiator with the same size core as the 74', but the inlet and outlet size for the 6.0, so that I could use the new factory hoses off a yukon.
Excited, but nervous about painting it in the next week or two, but excited about starting to put it back together.
Shawn
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Looks good. I need to get me some of those engine covers...
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id have that same grin lol
sounds good man
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Hey Capt,
I got everything buttoned up in the engine bay, but the one thing I can't find is the wire for the Amp gauge? My wiring diagram says it's supposed to be brow, but none of my brown or tan wires get any reaction on the gauge when touched to the positive terminal on the battery while running. Any ideas?
Shawn
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Did you check the wiring diagrams? It has been a while since I messed with a 74 with AMP. It is inline with the wiring.
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Man that does look good in there!