73-87chevytrucks.com
73-87 Chevy _ GMC Trucks => Members Rides => Topic started by: mercado1211 on July 27, 2021, 10:17:34 PM
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I had another build (79 C10 swb) I posted here. That ones almost done; I’ve since started building an 84 K5 for my son. I like seeing pictures of other builds so I figured some people might want to see pics of this build. It’s not done but getting there.
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(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210728/a9622267eabc25e9094f1126dbcd6e69.jpg)
Rust on the floors and rockers.
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(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210728/4fd9cd724680896d3a07fcf3b0bdbe7e.jpg)
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Here I replaced the pans and cut out the rotted parts of the rockers, the interior panels of the rockers also had to be replaced.
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(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210728/9675f3101f9ce741aa3c2d5c874c92d5.jpg)
Cleaned up and ready for primer.
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(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210728/7a9d45b45f5ea9c4782b9a808a3f1254.jpg)
And primered, both sides were basically the same.
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(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210728/de2c1f54ae4db0cc2ea1eca4f456d559.jpg)
Passenger quarter had damage as well, no rust though. Just takes time getting the panel right, not a pro by any means but seem to be getting by.
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(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210728/b9eafa3dff6a153b1ffa4462d597ae91.jpg)
Felt pretty good by hand so I primered the repaired area. Gonna do a final block sand on the whole thing before I take it to the painter.
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(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210728/0cc48ae8b865fb874568cf502617da28.jpg)
This was the worst, rot on the lower corners of both sides of the windshield channel.
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(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210728/82e0405bf4b9b7b05408876959bdd26e.jpg)
Had to cut pieces of the rotted window channel out and replace each piece, so as not to lose the over all form, this took time.
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(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210728/ef2030c53542b03689f8163396f979ee.jpg)
Headache for sure, glad it’s done.
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(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210728/c595bff07f4a9a637224697c5e27c890.jpg)
The other side was entertaining as well.
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(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210728/f02750af3c84672239ecab64e9607808.jpg)
More rot repair
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(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210728/41f8d1f4facb32fe07b55f1a375d054a.jpg)
More rust.
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(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210728/b1e392d0f0a1ad8206e5dbc0979be0d1.jpg)
There was more to that repair than seeing led to believe. Below the drip rail piece that’s welded in, I cut a portion off the bottom to expose more rot.
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(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210728/d93bb7c0d66d6c66225dd38cd2682682.jpg)
After.
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(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210728/06e66347437f0156a94094fb44f78ff1.jpg)
The driver door, note damage going right over the body line.
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(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210728/76aaa73850436275a4268facca3a84a3.jpg)
Used masking tape to help keep the body line straight as possible, theory anyway. Filled up to the tape then block sand. Then switch masking tape to the other side.
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(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210728/e91fc4410a63725cda33ba60bba7d262.jpg)
Good enough I guess.
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(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210728/f1dc0c91dd9d274c41822438d529d09d.jpg)
Passenger door was better, the body line was spared from damage but had dings all over.
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(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210728/04616795b9e84d9a97470c16bd047458.jpg)
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Usual cracks at the steering box.
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(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210728/c74e327911f168b5708717cbf9f30a3a.jpg)
Brace kit.
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(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210728/0f8995f895a6a6570f938db8c8284b32.jpg)
Pulled out the older worn 350 block.
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(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210728/a22c1df9d976a724c5c1038430400498.jpg)
Opportunity to paint the firewall and frame rails, springs and front differential
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(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210728/11b8645c777d305fd532ad426d05c09c.jpg)
Painted core support
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(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210728/2c63e0eb15863bce42617ad68888e625.jpg)
Put a 350 2 bolt Vortec block in it from a 99. Like these blocks cause you get the roller set up and stay more or less true to the build. My opinion anyway. Did have to use Flotek heads though since the vortec heads were cracked.
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The fenders were more of the same, they needed filler to straighten out, also had to take them mostly bare metal since these were donor fenders from the late 80’s with adhesion problems. I hope I don’t have any issues with them as far as paint. This is as far as I am now, I’ve got a bunch more pics and left out a ton of the build like wiring the electric fuel pump, fuel tank install; I can post that if any body wants to see it.
Thanks for looking, I appreciate it.
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Looking good! I just did a lot of the same with mine.
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Looking good! I just did a lot of the same with mine.
Thanks, I saw a full convertible top somewhere on here and I think was yours, nice.
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What I didn't mention is that many many hours went into applying filler blocking, applying filler blocking again blocking again. More primer and looking for high and lows by blocking again with a guidecoat, then more primer, then hopefully good enough to go to the painter for final paint.
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Wow, what a nice job so far!
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Thanks man,
Appreciate it.
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Nice Work!
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Thanks man,
Appreciate it, I’ve been getting it ready to take to the painter. Here it is a little further along. More blocking revealed high spots that I had to fix, especially the door.(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210816/e4ebbc6c402735fe485529ba4836d2eb.jpg)
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Looking great. When I saw the windshield channel I felt your pain. Until you've done it there's no way to know the time to make those small pieces.
I hope my Blazer turn out half as good. Keep it coming. Hopefully paint jail is a short sentencing.
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Thanks man,
Appreciate it. Yeah, I figured somebody out there’s had to have seen something like this given the channel is a common rust area. I just dropped it with the painter today. I’ll post some pics when the paint and liner is done.
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Nice work. Fyi My painter used a metalized epoxy on the window channel to both fill in pin holes and to prevent future rot.
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Thanks, appreciate it.
I cut out all the rotted metal in small pieces and fabricated each piece of the cut piece by piece. I then tacked it in place piece by piece to hopefully stay as close to the overall true form. The entire lower corners of the windshield channel on both sides were pretty much rebuilt. I had concerns with the amount of heat in the area and how it might affect the overall integrity of the piece, went slow and tried to give it enough time to to cool between tacks.
Guess we’ll see what happens.
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(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211210/8154182fd8ccdc16367dc719c2dfb200.jpg)
Paint is finished.
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Fine tuning these body lines.
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Note the ratchet strap, used it to close it up and tightened the fender. I used a strap on the other side as well to pull the core support out to fine tune the gaps. This side was a little more defiant. Not sure if it’s a body mount issue somewhere or just the way it is. The lower door to fender gap is wider than up top. This is as close as I could all the components to work and look decent. Right, left fenders and hood.
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(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211210/91c21c35d13a25367ef4ae59f20455b4.jpg)
The front ends going back together. All new electrical connections, headlights are on relays now. All new light adjuster bolts and springs. Ordered the headlight bezels and grille since the original plastics were toasted and couldn’t be saved.
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Posted these updates project pics for everyone who took the time to check out the build.
Figure if you take the time to look over the build I should at least keep updating it.
Thanks for looking.
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Awesome progress!
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Thanks man!
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Didn't think I'd like to do white but... That looks dang good! At least paint jail is over... Assembly time.
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Thanks Man. Yup assembly time; it’s when you hope you bagged and organized hundreds of bolts and parts cause nothings feels as good as ordering parts you know you had but couldn’t find again.
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Looks very nice, great job. I have had a problem locating some of my parts and some I ordered that I know I had. Then I found some of the missing parts a little too late. I have been looking around for a K5 to possibly build next. I have noticed the price of our squares are increasing.
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Thanks Mike. I hear you on the prices going up. K5’s we’re relatively easy to find cheap even two years ago and that doesn’t seem to be the case anymore. They are out there though, and if your patient you can get a good deal. I’ve got a long bed K10 that’s next after this blazer and my C10 are done, both are pretty close.
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Great progress man! Inspiring!
I too bagged and labeled my bolts/nuts per area of work/parts. Good to keep your sanity 8)
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Thanks Johnny,
You wouldn’t think organizing and labeling your nut and bolts and other parts was so important, it saves time and definitely helps keep the project manageable.
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Agreed!
I have a '80 C10 under construction, and lucky for me, I drive a K10 to use for reference in case I forget... 8)
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Same here, go back and forth to the 84 k10 for reference for everything. It also helps when you go to the junk yards for parts you scavenge as many bolts as you can when you get parts. I picked up a set of fenders off a 77 for my 79 and the guy gave me all the bolts and then some. Have extra doors too that I’m always scavenging for bolts and parts.
I know I’m gonna hang on to extra doors panels hoods what ever I have as long as I can from now on. I sold a door the other day and then found myself looking for the same door 6 months later for this blazer. Wound up repairing one that wasn’t as nearly nice as the one I sold.
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(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211217/bde976a4f66ece83ae0a93fa5c242f23.jpg)
New grille and bezels went on today. Bolted on the cowl as well. Windshield’s next.
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Hard to see in the picture but the window vents are on as well. Spent the afternoon yesterday putting those back together with new seals.
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(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220417/79ebbdfcfe0dd66dec47a71fd4272a0a.jpg)
Closer now to getting finished, exterior anyway. So I got the engine in it and ran it for a few hours when it developed a loud knock I couldn’t figure out. So the engine came back out, torn down and put back together. Couldn’t find anything other than some shadowing in cylinder 5,7 from pre-ignition detonating. Think it was from the mystery grind cam the previous builder put in there. Put a ramjet cam in there and at least know the specs on it. The knock is still there. Probably a lifter at this point. Gonna change the oil and see what happens next.
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(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220417/723948a967ec754078ee6e015decab25.jpg)
Here we have cracks in the frame from previous owner drilling into the frame after busting the top off the original mount. I welded, filled the cracks rebuilt and relocated the mount to the top of the frame and fabbed this strap to support the side of the shock. Did this to both sides, they both had stress fractures at or near shock mounts.
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(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220417/3940562d7430e974452221a51ded2464.jpg)
Passenger side.
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Here’s the engine going in for the second time.
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Here it is after the engine came out the second time. Wheels are 15x10 American racing Baja type wheel, with Cooper 33/12.5/15 MT’s.
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Drove it a few times today, trying to get all the bugs worked out. Trying to determine what else it needs to be safe on the road. Brakes felt spongy, I rebuilt the rear drums and think I got some air in them from opening up the lines. Also doing some tuning on the carburetor and ignition timing. It’s running about 20” of vacuum so that’s probably good. Have the vac advance line into the upper port and seems to run and shift better than full vacuum side (driver side).
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Did you determine what the knock was?
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I still haven’t. The machine shop went through the block and said cylinder 5 was a little tight and honed it again. They checked the clearances on the block and crank and said it was good. It picks up good oil pressure. The only thing I can think of is a bad lifter or needs an oil change. We put it together with oil and lithium grease so it may need to burn all that out and have fresh oil. It’s not a tick either, it’s a loud rap.
My wife’s uncle is a mechanic and used to be a machinist (he put it together and I helped), he said it might be pinging from low octane fuel. I’ve heard pinging before and it’s louder than that. I pulled each plug wire off one by one and ran it and it doesn’t change the knock sound.
I don’t know at this point. I figure just run it till it does what it’s going to do.
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Could have a problem with your crank or crank bearings, rod bearings, push rod, or lifter/adjustment.
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We put new main bearings in, new rod bearings, all the clearances seemed to have checked out. Everything was spec’d be the machine shop. I’m leaning towards rocker adjustments now, or a lifter. Pushrods we’re straight. Runs fine other than loud knock. Seems quieter on cold start up and louder when it gets to operating temperature.
Thanks for the reply.
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Quieter when the oil is cold and move viscous. Makes sense, most likely a lifter.
I've seen Rislone work wonders.
BTW, LOOKING GOOD!!!
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Hey there you are! Thanks Johnny!
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Keep in mind that almost all lifters nowadays are from China. :-[
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I think I’m going to pull the driver’s side lifters out this weekend and have a look at them. If any of them don’t look right I’ll take them apart and check them out. Maybe I’ll just take them apart and clean them.
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What brand lifters did you go with? Roller or regular hydraulic?
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Not sure of the brand, they’re hydraulic roller lifters, they guy who built the motor the first time around doesn’t answer my calls. I was trying to get that info from him. We put the same ones back in after it was built again.
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I just went through a bad set of roller lifters. The Melling lifters were perfect. Just get a new set and be done with it. Don't get cheap china ones!
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I thought about getting the auto zone melling brand. Heard they were ok if you check them out well before you install them
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Hey Vile, did you soak those in oil before install or just dropped them in?
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Dip them in oil or assembly lube. Never soak lifters.
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One of the lifters I picked up had very small Mars on the side I think it’s ok to run but what you think? It’s a smooth mar and doesn’t protrude from the body.(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220422/e75ef7e565cd9e3faa66421cd75df9e9.jpg)
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If the small mar bothers you Good or Bad, don't chance it - exchange it.
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Dang, kind of want to run it I’m outside of Phoenix and the Autozone I found these Mellings in is about 30 minutes out. Probably better off swapping it though.
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Is this a factory roller cam block or a retrofit roller cam?
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It’s factory. Block came out of a 99 suburban. I switched the cam to a GM performance ramjet cam when it was built for the second time.
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(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220423/ff75f76f426250c14d98feb8dcde839e.jpg)
Source of the knock. Guess I can return the lifters I bought.
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