Oil leak between gasket and head surface...

[Heckapunchez]

Ok guys and gals, after useful information within this forum I went ahead and replaced my exhaust manifolds last week and while I had the engine torn apart I took a little look under the valve covers. It was a very good sight as they were nice and shiny and nothing like the abused jeep I had prior. So I grab cork valve cover gaskets and attempt to put them on both sides. Well my passenger side is a champ. No issues. My drivers side however is leaking nearest the firewall and fender. So facing the car it would be the farthest and to the right corner. I have tried a different gasket (rubber with metal) with no RTV. It continues to pour out onto the headers. I tried RTV between just the valve cover and the gasket, same issue. I'm getting more and more frustrated with this as its only a 4 bolt operation and my patience is wearing thin. Someone at work mentioned a draining issue possibly. Any photos of what exactly I would be looking for would be awesome. And of course any other ideas. I haven't tried double gasket or getting another cork gasket yet either. Oh and the valve covers are the edelbrock brand from autozone.

[bd]

Centerbolt or peripheral-bolt valve covers?  Steel or aluminum?

Are you sure you removed all of the old gasket and sealer?  Sometimes pieces of gasket adhere firmly to the cylinder head and/or cover and have to be forcefully scraped away.

Did you verify that the gasket properly fit the cover?

And, are you sure the oil is leaking from the valve cover and not leaking down from the back of the intake manifold?

Oil puddling in the valve cover is caused by blockage of the oil drain-back holes through either end of the cylinder head casting back into the valley under the intake manifold.  When you removed the old gasket, some gasket material may have fallen into the drain-back path, damming the rear drain-back hole.  If you look closely when you remove the valve cover, the drilled holes are typically ~7/16" in diameter at opposite ends of the head.

[Heckapunchez]

After work today I'm going to pull it off again and take a look. Also I have no idea what centerbolt or peripheral is. They're just the 4 bolt downs and I have some tabs to help extend that pressure outwards.

I don't remember seeing any drains but there is a little bit of oil pools here and there so I'll soak that up. How can you clear tose passages if they are fouled?

The surfaces were all wiped down and could see clearly cast iron all the way around the head surface. The valve covers are steel. I've been reading thats not a good choice but considering how easy they are to put in and take out I can't see how I bent them that way.

Gasket is a solid fit and I noticed that when I first put it on I had oil going over and under the gasket. So I applied some RTV to the gasket and the valve cover. Last time I took it off it was only moving between the gasket and the head in that rear corner.

I didn't remove the intake manifold at all during this process and it was not pouring oil from there prior to changing the valve covers. I may just use the old valve cover if I can't figure this out. I just wanted them for the fancy clean look. They don't do anything for me other than make me smile.

[FlatBlack77]

when u have the valve cover off sit it on a perfectly flat even surface and see if it is bent in the area that leaks. someone could have dropped them before installing them or if u bought them new they may have been dropped in the box before you bought them.

any time are dealing with the thin steel covers/oil pans/tranny pans always check them like that before installing. the slightest little bent can cause a not so slight leak

[bd]

You have the peripheral-bolt covers (two short bolts along the top and two short bolts along the bottom).  Centerbolt covers (four long bolts down the center of each cover) were used on fuel injected engines.  The oil drain holes in both style heads are similar.  A little bit of oil pooling under the valve covers is normal and to be expected.  Pooling to the point that oil rises above the gasket rail isn't normal.

If you don't know the oil drain holes are there, they are easy to miss.  They passively allow oil to drain from under the valve covers into the open space under the intake manifold (the valley), and from there back to the oil pan.  The drain holes are drilled straight through the head, but are offset at their bases, because they open onto ledges that are cast into the engine block.

If the holes are fouled with loose debris, do your best to remove what you can using needle nose pliers, screwdriver, rags, a Shop Vac, etc.  You can use a Phillips screwdriver as a probe to ensure the holes are completely clear - just bear in mind that the holes bottom out against cast ledges, so a tool will penetrate the hole only so far before "bottoming out."  Once you verify the holes are clear, you can sparingly rinse the area down with a little bit of carb spray.  But, don't overuse solvents to clean it up or you'll need to change the oil, as solvents will wash into the oil pan.

Expanding on what FlatBlack77 posted, unfortunately, steel valve covers often distort at their ends, as well as at the bolt holes.  The entire flange will bend upward, so no pressure is applied to the gasket.  Flip the valve cover upside-down and remove the gasket.  With the valve cover still upside-down, lay the top side of the gasket flange against the edge of a sturdy, rectangular, flat table.  The flange should be totally straight and lay flat against the edge, so there should be no gaps.  If necessary you can straighten the flange with a few gentle taps of a hammer while the flange is supported against the table edge.  Or, you can take the cover back and exchange it under warranty.

[Heckapunchez]

OK, so I have a day off and went ahead and double gasketed the valve cover. Well that worked! BUUUUUUT, that wasn't the source of the oil pouring. I've always been told to start at the top when you see oil leaks and move down so I assumed it was the valve cover gasket leaking that bad. It was probably dripping a bit but once I did isolate that and watched her run with no oil even moving from there I still had oil pouring out. It appears its my oil pressure sending units line. About 5 -6" up the line oil is coming out like crazy. Now I need to figure out exactly how to replace just this line or the whole thing. It seems like its in a very awkward position to work on however... Thanks again for the tips and using solvents in my oil isn't a big deal right now because I haven't yet changed the oil until all these leaks stop. Why waste good oil when I can waste the oil? Any input on that line would be appreciated until then I'm going to search google and the forum for some help. Until the next problem....take care.

[FlatBlack77]

this should take care of that problem
http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performance-Products/555/41055/10002/-1?parentProductId=758470

you may be able to get it cheaper at your local autoparts store. i got one from advance auto for $12

ive used this exact kit in both my trucks and its a good kit. i used it instead of the nylon tubing poop that comes with sunpro oil pressure gauges

[Heckapunchez]

I bought both. But only after I bent the copper, then broke it.. I'll try that again if this one goes but I wasn't in any mood for that copper brittleness after cutting my hands on the PO's beautifully sharp cuts in the metal to make the newer gages work..