Converting wood bed to metal

[1980K20]

Hi folks,

Newbie here.  Great forum!

I've stumbled into a full restoration on a 1980 K20 4x4. Long story, but mechanically it's all new or overhauled. Almost everything was worse than I had thought it would be so now there's a lot into this build.

I was going to put an aluminum flat bed on it but the cab will be more beautiful than I was originally intending and it seems wrong to do that.

Reading the wood bed posts, that's a ton of work and for me, ton of cost at the body shop. The aftermarket fenders, hood are poor finish quality needed modifications to eliminate the huge gaps. I expect the same for bed parts.

Advice on changing from wood to metal? I could buy a metal bed and have the auto body correct all the quality issues. What do you think?

What about diamond plate? How thick should it be? Auto body shop will still have to do welding, but doesn't seem as bad.

Here's a video, I'll try to attach pictures of the bed.

https://youtu.be/_z5oypwLBSM

Thanks!

[1980K20]

Here's some more pictures of the bed.... Finally figured out how to add more than one.

Thanks,
Mark

[Mr Diesel]

If it was me I would probably keep the fleet side bed and redo the wood floor in it. Maybe put a new rubber  floor mat in, or a whole plastic bed liner (I'm a big fan or those). Seems fairly simple while keeping costs reasonable, and I think it would look good.

[VileZambonie]

Where are you located?

[1980K20]

Well, I decided I was going to get the bed back into the shop. Enlisted the help of my son to get the hood off. At some point he instinctively jumped on the tail gate to help get the hood. Oops! Haha. that was a bit of a roller coaster ride. If the weather's good tomorrow, will get it back onto the stand. Knocked the tailgate off. Everything's rough, don't know that anything new was done to it.

Anyways, you can see the bed, the rust at the front. I sprinkled some water and used a shop broom to scrub it a bit. Discovered same (ugly) brown paint as the rest of the truck. There's rot at the back.

I'm in Seattle area.



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[VileZambonie]

It looks worth fixing. The wood bed floors are rare in the fleetsides and a definite value add to your truck. A little more work but will be a thing of beauty in the end. If you decide not to, definitely save every piece because it has resale value. I'd buy it if you were closer!

[1980K20]

Well, here's the latest damage.

On a whim, I've started working up costs to build a new bed as well as for piece parts. It's probably $4000 for parts and $2000 shipping for all new metal.  Body shop guy said he thinks we can find a used breed in better shape. Color me skeptical.

Getting new pieces to weld in is much cheaper, but then there's the welders labor.

Next up to see if I can find the pieces I need to repair and put in wood. Plenty of wood options.

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[1980K20]

Hi, I've decided that such a rare truck bed, fleet side with wood, that I should find somebody who will fix it up. I'm going back to my original plan to put this nice aluminized flat bed on it. Some nice stakes and it's very useful for me.

I'll clean it up and put the wood bed up for sale. What do you think that would be worth? I'll do some checking, but another opinion is always nice.

Thanks,
Mark

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[VileZambonie]

Depends on the market in your area. I've seen them go from $400 to $2,000

[Mike81K10]

Might want to think about keeping it and do a slow restoration of the bed while using the new one you plan to buy. Then if you want to sell the truck one day, swap the beds and you can sell the new one you are buying. Will be easier to sell the truck with the original bed and be worth more.

[fitz]

How much is the aluminum flat bed going to cost?

[1980K20]

Here's the rough costs I have for different options..

1) flatbed - $5000 max all in, it's $3600, before taxes. I'll do some sort of stakes.  Oh yeah, comes with all the lights.

2) costed out from   and classic industries building new box all metal as much as I can. Can't find everything. Problem is labor, $100/hour, I haven't ventured into body work yet. $11,000. $6,000 parts, shipping, taxes, 50 hours.

3) fixing existing. Well, my strategy in the can was to replace anything that required lots of labor. Only saved the cab. Probably $15,000. I don't know, it's better to build a new metal box.

For the bed, plan was to do some sort of rino liner, I just want no-slip. I may do some strips on the flatbed.

There's not much out there for fleetside wood box, stepside is common. I haven't looked hard yet, but the trim metal around the wood I haven't found yet unless I didn't recognize it. Mine is tested out in the front. Can fabricate new, cha-ching. I can get wood and strips of course.

If I try fixing myself, it will be years to do it. Paint won't match by then.  For me, this project was not supposed to be the big project, that I'm saving for the '52 international and I'll start that in a few years. But this has turned into a biggie. I'm continuing it because I could use a truck and love retro. I did grow up around this era of truck too, Ford really, but chevy rules. Is that TMI?

Thanks,
Mark

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[1980K20]

One inquiry, but no bites at $600. So I dropped to $400. Still nothing.  Seems like it should sell at $300, but I do list it as obo.

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[1980K20]

https://classictruckbeds.net/product/gmc-chevy-oak-bed-wood-1973-1987/

https://classictruckbeds.net/product/gmc-chevy-bed-kit-metal-parts-1973-1987-step-side/

I had a brainstorm, what about a brand new step side need? The cost won't be that much more than the flat bed.

Would this really work?

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[VileZambonie]

What about the steps and the rear fenders? Long bed steps are hard to find. You would then need to build the bed, mock it up, complete any body work, disassemble, prime, paint, clear, reassemble. Why not fix that gem sitting there in front of you?