Braking issue...fixed pics

[roundhouse]

Sounds like you still have some issue with the suspension for it to be pulling right

Although it could be a brake line

Get some of the one man bleeder screws.   Those are handy !
Carefully check the metal lines and rubber lines and when you're bleeding them try putting a rubber line from the bleeder screw down to the same size container on both sides and pump the brakes a few times and see if each container has the same amount of fluid


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[frotosride]

Did you resurface the rotors and install new pads at the same time?

Brake hose condition?

New pads will not seat correctly if the glaze is not removed from the rotors and will pull if uneven wear is not removed by surfacing also.

Contaminated brake pads will also grab unevenly.

Rear brakes adjusted properly?

Bleeding procedures furthest from the MC first, then next furthest with a helper or a pressure bleeder.

Bleeding all four brakes for the pro portioning valve to operate properly.

Master cylinder condition also.

Brake hoses are only 2yrs old and checked for bulging.
2)rotors are less than 2 years old and the slight glaze you see is mostly due to the camera. This is surely not the issue due to the fact that I have had the problem since I got the truck and lifting it made it more obviouse.
3)rear brake were the first things I checked. I did back the passenger side off just a bit but to no avail.
4) Always good to be reminded about how to bleed brakes but I managed to actually remember it on my own this time...this doesn't happen often.
5) master cylinder is OE from '87 and I'm no stranger to fluid, heat and cycling of hydraulic components and their effects on orings.. this is what I'm likely to investigate but after I spent sufficient time verifying geometry and spring hangers etc..
I think I'm gonna barrow my buddies go pro and mount it to see the front end from the front and then retest with a view from the rear.

Sounds like you still have some issue with the suspension for it to be pulling right

Although it could be a brake line

Get some of the one man bleeder screws.   Those are handy !
Carefully check the metal lines and rubber lines and when you're bleeding them try putting a rubber line from the bleeder screw down to the same size container on both sides and pump the brakes a few times and see if each container has the same amount of fluid

I fully plan on doing this! Where can I find the one man bleeders?

[Irish_Alley]

im sure you do but do you have uneven pad wear?
my crew cab does the same thing but it pulls to the left side. i have noticed it does take more pressure to turn the left wheel vs the right. dont know if its due to 4x4 parts or what, but i plan on taking her apart in the next couple days and trying to figure it out

[frotosride]

Uneven,  yas but it is only the outer pads on each side. Both the driver's and passenger sides outer pads (not against piston) are thinner than the inners. Other than that they are both seeming the same. I did not measure to see if one side's outer pad was thinner than the opposite but it may be a good point to investigate.

[roundhouse]

Did you resurface the rotors and install new pads at the same time?

Brake hose condition?

New pads will not seat correctly if the glaze is not removed from the rotors and will pull if uneven wear is not removed by surfacing also.

Contaminated brake pads will also grab unevenly.

Rear brakes adjusted properly?

Bleeding procedures furthest from the MC first, then next furthest with a helper or a pressure bleeder.

Bleeding all four brakes for the pro portioning valve to operate properly.

Master cylinder condition also.

Brake hoses are only 2yrs old and checked for bulging.
2)rotors are less than 2 years old and the slight glaze you see is mostly due to the camera. This is surely not the issue due to the fact that I have had the problem since I got the truck and lifting it made it more obviouse.
3)rear brake were the first things I checked. I did back the passenger side off just a bit but to no avail.
4) Always good to be reminded about how to bleed brakes but I managed to actually remember it on my own this time...this doesn't happen often.
5) master cylinder is OE from '87 and I'm no stranger to fluid, heat and cycling of hydraulic components and their effects on orings.. this is what I'm likely to investigate but after I spent sufficient time verifying geometry and spring hangers etc..
I think I'm gonna barrow my buddies go pro and mount it to see the front end from the front and then retest with a view from the rear.

Sounds like you still have some issue with the suspension for it to be pulling right

Although it could be a brake line

Get some of the one man bleeder screws.   Those are handy !
Carefully check the metal lines and rubber lines and when you're bleeding them try putting a rubber line from the bleeder screw down to the same size container on both sides and pump the brakes a few times and see if each container has the same amount of fluid

I fully plan on doing this! Where can I find the one man bleeders?

most any auto parts store has em
They look like regular bleeder screws but have a check valve inside

You loosen em 1/4 turn and the fluid comes out but air can't come back in




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[Irish_Alley]

http://www.napaonline.com/napa/en/p/NDP6751566_0480799352
never knew wow.
and
http://www.autozone.com/brakes-and-traction-control/brake-bleeder-screw/dorman-brake-bleeder-screw/chevrolet/v30-1-ton-p-u-4wd/1987/8-cylinders-k-5-7l-tbi/347139_453145_27048/?checkfit=true

[roundhouse]

Make sure that the calipers are able to float back and forth on the bolts

Not quite sure how to test that other than removing the lads and re installing the calipers and push and pull by hand

Also  be careful when you have the wheel off
Use a good jackstand and when I pull the tire off I always slide it back under the vehicle just for extra safety in case the vehicle does fall. It can't fall totally flat on the ground


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[bd]

http://www.napaonline.com/napa/en/p/NDP6751566_0480799352
never knew wow.
and
http://www.autozone.com/brakes-and-traction-control/brake-bleeder-screw/dorman-brake-bleeder-screw/chevrolet/v30-1-ton-p-u-4wd/1987/8-cylinders-k-5-7l-tbi/347139_453145_27048/?checkfit=true

Those have been around for 20 years!  lol

Froto, why not perform a hydraulic pressure test side-to-side?  At least you would know what you are chasing.

[frotosride]

Froto, why not perform a hydraulic pressure test side-to-side?  At least you would know what you are chasing.

I thought about this just not sure exactly how. I'm assuming there's a tool/kit. If I new the normal operating pressure I would just hook up the right lb Guage to each corner one at a time and find me a brake masher.

[bd]

Brake pressure gauge sets are available for a wide range of prices (examples:  SSBC A1704, Aven 789-0060, OTC 7488A, IPA 7884).  I have a pressure cell type gauge set that substitutes for the inner brake pad, but direct reading analog gauges work well.  The direct reading gauge substitutes for the bleeder screw. 

A matched set of gauges is best, because you can compare side-to-side pressures at the same time, eliminating the variable of dissimilar pedal pressures between readings.  For the problem you're experiencing, total pressure isn't so important as side-to-side differential pressures.

Now all you need is a reliable masher....

[Irish_Alley]

how bout
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Car-Brake-Pressure-Tester-Braking-System-Testing-Gauge-Adapter-Test-Tool-L3V2-/141930305056?hash=item210bb49620:g:bHMAAOSwoudW58Uz&item=141930305056&vxp=mtr
?

[roundhouse]

The gauge that fits in place of the the inner pad would be best

But you still need to make sure your calipers are floating
Install the calipers without pads and you should be able to slide them back and forth on the bolts by hand.   

THere will be some resistance but it should be able to do by just pushing and pulling by hand

Don't mash the pedal without pads installed.    That will pop the piston out


Also I'd go ahead and replace the MC with a NEW one.   Not a rebuilt one.   Pay extra and get a brand new one.   Not made in China

After all your bleeding.  The O rings and seals will be worn out

If you bleed the brakes in a car with a few years on the MC.  The piston wears a smooth spot on the bore and pushes all the tiny trash and debris into the spot where the piston never travels


Then when you bleed it you push the piston past that spot dozens of times    Usually messing up the seals

Only way to prevent it is put a block of wood or something under the pedal to limit the travel to the usual range

I work on a lot of old classic and antique cars and that's a trick I learned
On a chicks as common as our pickups every auto parts store can get a MC.  Brand new even.  In a day if they don't have it on the shelf

But getting a new or even rebuilt MC for a '38 Packard   Is impossible


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[Irish_Alley]

any update? i just got around to replacing the calipers on my 91 did both since i had the truck up on jack stands. the majority of the problem has gone away. truck will stop going straight, but if you panic brake then it still pulls to the right. thinking maybe the left brake hose is expanding causing a loss of pressure or not as much pressure on the right side

[frotosride]

No unfortunately I haven't done anything else with it bc I hurt my back a few weeks ago and I'm just now getting back to being myself again. Once I have the engine done and ready to go into the truck I am going to put some fire under this as well unless I get sick of it b4 then. The more I look at my spring packs and hangers the more I think it's a geometry issue and alignment.

[frotosride]

Resurrection time. As we all know life changes every time line. And thus I'm still living with this dang brake issue. However it has gotten worse and way more dangerous. So I'm running down a path that was pointed out several times and as usual upgrading just a little along the way. I headed down the suspension route to help with the pulling under any brake load. The only thing I have yet to replace are the rear leaf spring frame hangers for the front springs. So I picked up a greasable set from An organization that specializes in beating square bodied air plows off-road. Also got the crossmember to help with the oil pan clearance and more strength in the front. Just waiting on shipping. If I invested in a GoPro I could probably figure this out easier...

Sounds like you still have some issue with the suspension for it to be pulling right.