Brand new brake calipers, pistons won't retract. 1976 c10

[DIG]

So I just put the tires back onto the studs to check if that made any difference, and I can move the tire with just one hand and moderate effort. The tire doesn't spin around freely but it's not nearly impossible like when I was trying to turn the rotor using my hands on the studs. Is this what you would consider normal resistance?

[MIKE S]

Are you trying to turn the rotors with the wheels bolted on or just trying to turn the rotors by just grabbing the wheel studs. Even with the wheels bolted on it won’t freewheel but it would be easier to tell. Like bd says, if you open up the bleeder screws and you feel that they are still to tight the problem would not be upstream of the calipers. You would be relieving all hydraulic pressure so none of the other brake components would would affect your problem.   

[frotosride]

I know you've only mentioned the brakes being replaced and no maintenance to the hubs or bearings. However, just for narrowing down the issue and making sure the light is on the actual culprit. Use a pry bar in the vents of the rotor tod force the caliper to move on the slides. Do not push the brake pedal. Now remove the caliper and attempt to rotate the rotor. If this is difficult you may have to much preload on the hub bearings or bad bearings.

If the hubs move without the caliper and with slight resistance(preload) the I'd investigate the rubber lines. It is common for them to corrode internally and allow pressure to the caliper due to applied force but without any counter acting force the pressure will not bleed off. I had this problem on a '69 panel and it was a pain to diagnose because the lines were fairly new and we always doubt new parts are bad.

[DIG]

Originally I was just grabbing the studs and I couldn't rotate it. Just now I just put the wheel on the studs, without bolting it and it was much easier. I will attempt moving the wheels with the bleeders open to see if I can move them even easier. I'm about to just bleed the brakes and go down my private dirt road to see if I notice any bad dragging.

[DIG]

I know you've only mentioned the brakes being replaced and no maintenance to the hubs or bearings. However, just for narrowing down the issue and making sure the light is on the actual culprit. Use a pry bar in the vents of the rotor tod force the caliper to move on the slides. Do not push the brake pedal. Now remove the caliper and attempt to rotate the rotor. If this is difficult you may have to much preload on the hub bearings or bad bearings.

If the hubs move without the caliper and with slight resistance(preload) the I'd investigate the rubber lines. It is common for them to corrode internally and allow pressure to the caliper due to applied force but without any counter acting force the pressure will not bleed off. I had this problem on a '69 panel and it was a pain to diagnose because the lines were fairly new and we always doubt new parts are bad.

I just bought new rubber lines and with no calipers/brakes on the rotors spin freely easily. I may at some point repack the bearings etc but for now I just need to get it moving so I can do other stuff. Trying to save up for tools and parts. Currently the truck will not be driven on the road until at least next year and that's only if I get my drivers permit and fix the floor pans which entails me buying a $400 welder which will take half a year to save up for. I'm 23, disabled and cant receive disability. So my wealthy friend charitably gives me $100 a month so I can buy things and fix my truck.

[DIG]

OK so just to fill you all in, I did a final bleed of the brakes and put the tires on. Went for a test drive and didn't notice any dragging or pulling and they stopped nicely. After the very small test drive of less than a mile with very light brake use, I checked the calipers and rotors to see how hot they were. They were moderately warm but I could easily leave my finger on them for a while. Before I changed them they pulled to the left and dragged hard, as the drivers side caliper was siezed and the rubber hose was leaking. Replacing the calipers was on the list of things to do but I was trying to budget towards getting it running and moving first. Stopping was already covered by the locked up rear drum brakes. Well now I hopefully have both done and dusted. My biggest issue is that the truck will not go over 25mph and struggles to take off or go up inclines. I believe that would be the clutch. We have guessed that the clutch plate has been bad for quite some time and it was supposed to be fixed but the ppl that were going to do it never did. So now I am at the dilemma of either fixing it with a clutch kit for around $100 or buying and installing a th350 or some other automatic transmission instead as I don't know how or want to drive manual. As the truck will be for daily driving, towing and light offroading. So my next forum excursion will be to figure out which trans is the best for my needs and what will fit with the least amount of modifications. Thanks for all the help! Close thread.